Champadevi
Kathmandu Valley
1 dayup to 2,285 m (Champadevi)Moderatebest Oct–Janby road
The valley and the far mountains from the top in the morning light.
The walk, day by dayTrekking in Nepal
Trekking in Nepal with a camera
I am a photographer as well as a guide, and I plan walks for people who carry a camera: early starts for the light, time at the viewpoints, and days that are not rushed. On the trail I guide; I do not photograph for guests. Here is what I have learned about photographing the mountains and the people who live in them.
Written by Rujan Neupane, licensed trekking guide from the Kathmandu Valley
The light, season by season
- Autumn
- The clearest air of the year, sharp peaks and deep blue skies. The busiest viewpoints are crowded at sunrise.
- Winter
- Low, warm light all day, snow on the high ridges, very clear mornings. Cold hands and short days.
- Spring
- Haze softens the distance, rhododendrons flower, fields are worked. Sunrise is your window for the peaks.
- Monsoon
- Clouds moving through green valleys, waterfalls and dramatic breaks in the weather. Protect your camera from the rain.
Walks I have paced for the light
With my notes on where to be at first light: the photographers' list.
Chandragiri
Kathmandu Valley
1 dayup to 2,551 m (Chandragiri)Moderatebest Oct–Janbusy in its best monthsby road
The Himalaya in the early morning from the top; the valley in the evening light from the cable car.
The walk, day by dayDhampus
1 dayup to 2,060 m (Australian Camp)Easybest Oct–Febby road
Annapurna South and Machhapuchhre in the morning from the ridge.
The walk, day by dayKahun Danda
1 dayup to 1,414 m (Kahun Danda)Easybest Oct–Febquietby road
The valley and mountains from the tower in the early morning.
The walk, day by dayNagarjun and Jamacho
Kathmandu Valley
1 dayup to 2,128 m (Jamacho)Moderatebest Oct–Janquietby road
Morning light from the tower; birds in the forest early.
The walk, day by dayNagarkot to Changu Narayan
Kathmandu Valley
1 dayup to 2,175 m (Nagarkot)Easybest Oct–Febby road
Sunrise on the Himalaya from Nagarkot; the carved temple in the soft afternoon light.
The walk, day by dayPanchase
1 dayup to 2,517 m (Panchase)Moderatebest Oct–Febquietby road
The range at dawn from the top, with a night at Bhanjyang.
The walk, day by dayPhulchoki
Kathmandu Valley
1 dayup to 2,782 m (Phulchoki)Challengingbest Oct–Jan, Mar–Aprquietby road
Birds early in the forest; the valley and mountains from the top in the morning.
The walk, day by daySarangkot
1 dayup to 1,600 m (Sarangkot)Easybest Oct–Febbusy in its best monthsby road
The mountains at dawn; Phewa Lake from above in the late afternoon.
The walk, day by dayShivapuri Day Hike
Kathmandu Valley · Day hike
1 dayup to 2,732 m (Shivapuri Peak)Easybest Oct–Decby road
The early start gives the best light on the mountains and in the forest. I guide; the photographs are yours.
The walk, day by dayWorld Peace Pagoda
1 dayup to 1,100 m (World Peace Pagoda)Easybest Oct–Febbusy in its best monthsby road
The pagoda with the Annapurnas in the early morning; Phewa Lake in the late afternoon.
The walk, day by dayAstam and Dhampus
Annapurna · Culture & village stay
3 daysup to 1,650 m (Dhampus)Easybest Oct–Nov, Mar–Aprquietby road
The best light is the sunrise over the Annapurnas and Machhapuchhre from Dhampus and Astam, and the late afternoon on the terraces.
The walk, day by dayKalinchowk
Khumbu (Everest)
3 daysup to 3,842 m (Kalinchowk Bhagwati)Moderatebest Oct–Febbusy in its best monthsby road
Sunrise on Gaurishankar from the ridge, and the snow on the way up.
The walk, day by daySailung
Khumbu (Everest)
3 daysup to 3,146 m (Thulo Sailung)Easybest Oct–Febby road
Sunrise along the whole range; the grassy hills in long morning light.
The walk, day by dayGhandruk Loop
Annapurna
4 daysup to 2,060 m (Australian Camp)Easybest Oct–Marby road
Annapurna South from Ghandruk at sunrise, and the whole range from Australian Camp.
The walk, day by dayKathmandu Valley Rim
4 daysup to 2,430 m (Borlang Bhanjyang)Easybest Oct–Febby road
Sunrise from Chisapani and Nagarkot; Panauti in the afternoon light.
The walk, day by dayRoyal Trek
Annapurna
4 daysup to 1,730 m (Syaklung)Easybest Oct–Dec, Marquietby road
Sunrise from Syaklung, and the ridges in the evening light.
The walk, day by dayGhorepani Poon Hill
Annapurna · Soft trek
5 daysup to 3,210 m (Poon Hill)Easybest Oct–Nov, Mar–Aprbusy in its best monthsby road
Poon Hill at sunrise, and Ghandruk in the late afternoon light.
The walk, day by dayMachhapuchhre Model Trek
Annapurna
5 daysup to 3,682 m (Korchon)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Mar–Aprquietby road
Sunrise from Korchon is the reason to come; we plan the nights for it.
The walk, day by dayPathibhara Devi
Kanchenjunga
5 daysup to 3,794 m (Pathibhara Devi)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Mar–Aprbusy in its best monthswith a flight
Sunrise on Kanchenjunga from the temple; the prayer flags and bells in the morning light.
The walk, day by dayChepang Hill Trail
6 daysup to 1,945 m (Siraichuli)Moderatebest Nov–Feb, Aprquietwith a flight
Sunrise from Siraichuli; village life in the soft light of the morning and evening, always asking first.
The walk, day by dayJomsom and Muktinath
Annapurna
6 daysup to 3,900 m (Muktinath)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Apr–Maywith a flight
Kagbeni in the early light; Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri from Marpha.
The walk, day by dayMardi Himal
Annapurna
6 daysup to 4,500 m (Mardi Himal Base Camp)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Mar–Aprby road
Sunrise on the ridge above High Camp, and the forest in mist on the way up.
The walk, day by daySikles and Kapuche Lake
Annapurna
6 daysup to 2,500 m (Kapuche Lake)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Mar–Aprquietby road
The lake and the ice in the morning; Lamjung Himal from Sikles at sunrise.
The walk, day by dayEverest Panorama
Khumbu (Everest)
7 daysup to 3,880 m (Syangboche, above Namche)Easybest Oct–Nov, Mar–Aprbusy in its best monthswith a flight
The best light is early: Everest and Ama Dablam from Tengboche at sunrise, and Namche in the evening. Afternoons are often cloudy.
The walk, day by dayHelambu
Langtang
7 daysup to 3,640 m (Tharepati)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Mar–Aprquietby road
The best light is the sunrise from Chisapani and the morning on the Tharepati ridge. Afternoons are often cloudy.
The walk, day by dayPikey Peak
Khumbu (Everest)
7 daysup to 4,065 m (Pikey Peak)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Mar–Aprquietwith a flight
The best light is the sunrise on Pikey Peak and the evening glow from base camp. Afternoons are often cloudy.
The walk, day by dayTamang Heritage Trail
Langtang · Culture & village stay
7 daysup to 3,165 m (Nagthali)Easybest Oct–Nov, Mar–Aprquietby road
The best light is the morning on the Nagthali meadow, and the evening in Gatlang and Briddim. Midday is often hazy.
The walk, day by dayAnnapurna North Base Camp
Annapurna
8 daysup to 4,190 m (Annapurna North Base Camp)Challengingbest Oct–Nov, Aprquietby road
The north face in the morning light from base camp; the gorge from the high trail.
The walk, day by dayGosainkunda
Langtang
8 daysup to 4,380 m (Gosainkunda)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Aprby road
The best light is early: the lakes at sunrise and the Langtang range from Laurebina. Afternoons are often cloudy.
The walk, day by dayMohare Danda
Annapurna
8 daysup to 3,300 m (Mohare Danda)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Mar–Aprquietby road
The ridge at dawn and dusk; a second night there gives two chances at clear light.
The walk, day by dayRamaroshan
Far West
8 daysup to 2,900 m (The viewpoint above the lakes)Easybest Oct–Nov, Aprquietwith a flight
Lakes in the early light and the far mountains from the ridge; mist on the meadows in the morning.
The walk, day by dayDudh Kunda
Khumbu (Everest)
9 daysup to 4,561 m (Dudh Kunda)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Aprquietby road
The lake under Numbur in the morning; Junbesi's monastery in the late light.
The walk, day by dayKhaptad
Far West
9 daysup to 3,300 m (Sahasra Linga (about 3,300 m))Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Apr–Mayquietwith a flight
Early morning on the patans, before the mist.
The walk, day by dayKhopra Ridge
Annapurna
9 daysup to 3,660 m (Khopra Ridge)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Mar–Aprquietwith a flight
Sunrise on Dobato and Khopra is the reason to come; we plan the nights for it.
The walk, day by dayRuby Valley
Langtang
9 daysup to 3,842 m (Pangsang pass)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Aprquietby road
Sunrise on the Pangsang pass, and the villages in the late afternoon light.
The walk, day by dayAnnapurna Base Camp
Annapurna · Soft trek
10 daysup to 4,130 m (Annapurna Base Camp)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Mar–Aprbusy in its best monthswith a flight
Sunset and sunrise at the base camp, and the Fishtail from Chhomrong in the morning.
The walk, day by dayRara Lake
Far West
10 daysup to 3,600 m (The ridge above Rara (about 3,600 m))Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Apr–Mayquietwith a flight
Rara is best at sunrise and sunset; Murma Top at dawn.
The walk, day by dayAnnapurna Circuit
Annapurna · Adventure trek
11 daysup to 5,416 m (Thorong La)Challengingbest Oct–Nov, Aprbusy in its best monthswith a flight
First light on the Annapurnas from the upper trail at Ghyaru and Ngawal, and the dawn crossing of the pass. I guide; the photographs are yours.
The walk, day by dayDumji in Khumbu
Khumbu (Everest)
11 daysup to 3,880 m (Syangboche shoulder above Namche)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Aprquietwith a flight
Morning light in the courtyard before it fills; the village in the early sun.
The walk, day by dayGokyo Lakes
Khumbu (Everest)
11 daysup to 5,357 m (Gokyo Ri)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Aprwith a flight
Gokyo Ri at sunrise, and the fifth lake in the morning on the rest day.
The walk, day by dayPanch Pokhari
Langtang
11 daysup to 4,100 m (Panch Pokhari)Challengingbest Oct–Nov, Aprquietby road
Sunrise at the lakes, and the ridges at first light.
The walk, day by dayPhoksundo Lake
Dolpo
11 daysup to 3,900 m (Above Ringmo (about 3,900 m))Moderatebest Sep–Oct, Apr–Mayquietwith a flight
The lake's colour is strongest in the late morning sun.
The walk, day by dayTsho Rolpa
Khumbu (Everest)
11 daysup to 4,580 m (Tsho Rolpa)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Apr–Mayquietby road
The lake in the still morning, and Beding's monastery in the late light.
The walk, day by dayAma Dablam Base Camp
Khumbu (Everest)
12 daysup to 4,570 m (Ama Dablam Base Camp)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Apr–Maywith a flight
Ama Dablam at first light from Pangboche and the base camp; a night at the base camp gives the best light.
The walk, day by dayApi Base Camp
Far West
12 daysup to 4,100 m (Api Base Camp)Challengingbest Oct, Apr–Mayquietwith a flight
Api's south face at dawn from the base camp; a tent night there gives the best light.
The walk, day by dayEverest Base Camp
Khumbu (Everest) · Adventure trek
12 daysup to 5,545 m (Kala Patthar)Moderatebest Nov, Aprbusy in its best monthswith a flight
Early starts for first light at Kala Patthar and above Namche; time to wait at the viewpoints. I guide; the photographs are yours.
The walk, day by dayMani Rimdu at Tengboche
Khumbu (Everest)
12 daysup to 3,880 m (Everest View hotel above Namche)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Aprbusy in its best monthswith a flight
The best light is early: Ama Dablam at sunrise from the Tengboche ridge, and the courtyard in the morning before it fills.
The walk, day by dayNar Phu Valley
Annapurna
12 daysup to 5,320 m (Kang La)Challengingbest Oct–Nov, Aprquietby road
The best light is early: Phu and its gate at sunrise, and the Annapurnas from the Kang La in the morning. Afternoons are windy.
The walk, day by dayLangtang Valley and Gosainkunda
Langtang
13 daysup to 4,773 m (Kyanjin Ri)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Mar–Aprby road
The best light is early: the peaks from Kyanjin Ri at sunrise, and the lakes in the morning. Afternoons are often cloudy.
The walk, day by dayManaslu Circuit
Manaslu
13 daysup to 5,106 m (Larke La)Challengingbest Oct–Nov, Aprbusy in its best monthswith a flight
The best light is early: Manaslu from Lho and Samagaon at sunrise, and Himlung on the way down to Bimthang. The gorge is in shade most of the morning.
The walk, day by dayMohare Danda and Khopra Danda
Annapurna
13 daysup to 4,600 m (Khopra Danda)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Mar–Aprquietwith a flight
Dawn on both ridges; a second night gives two chances at clear light.
The walk, day by dayPoon Hill and Annapurna Base Camp
Annapurna
13 daysup to 4,130 m (Annapurna Base Camp)Moderatebest Oct–Nov, Mar–Aprbusy in its best monthswith a flight
The best light is early: the sunrise from Poon Hill, and Machhapuchhre and Annapurna I at sunrise from base camp. Afternoons are often cloudy.
The walk, day by dayUpper Mustang
Mustang
13 daysup to 4,010 m (Nyi La)Moderatebest Sep–Oct, May–Junquietwith a flight
The best light is early and late: the cliffs of Dhakmar and the walls of Lo Manthang glow at sunrise and sunset. The middle of the day is harsh and windy.
The walk, day by dayAnnapurna Circuit with Tilicho Lake
Annapurna
14 daysup to 5,416 m (Thorong La)Challengingbest Oct–Nov, Aprbusy in its best monthswith a flight
The best light is early: the lake in the morning, the Annapurnas from the upper trail, and the pass at first light. Afternoons are windy.
The walk, day by dayNumbur Cheese Circuit
Khumbu (Everest)
14 daysup to 4,880 m (The high pass above Thare)Challengingbest Oct–Nov, Aprquietby road
The lakes at dawn and Numbur from Ngeju are the pictures; we plan the nights for them.
The walk, day by dayGokyo to Everest Base Camp
Khumbu (Everest)
15 daysup to 5,545 m (Kala Patthar)Challengingbest Oct–Nov, Aprwith a flight
The best light is early: Gokyo Ri and Kala Patthar at sunrise, and the lakes in the still morning before the wind. Afternoons are often cloudy.
The walk, day by dayGokyo, Cho La and Everest Base Camp
Khumbu (Everest)
17 daysup to 5,644 m (Kala Patthar)Challengingbest Oct–Nov, Apr–Maywith a flight
Gokyo Ri at dawn and Kala Patthar at dawn are the two great pictures; we plan the nights for both.
The walk, day by dayEverest Three Passes
Khumbu (Everest) · Adventure trek
18 daysup to 5,545 m (Chhukung Ri)Challengingbest Oct–Nov, Aprwith a flight
The best light is early: Kala Patthar and Gokyo Ri at sunrise, and the passes in the first hours. We start before dawn on those days.
The walk, day by dayEverest Base Camp Photography Trek
Khumbu (Everest) · Adventure trek
20 daysup to 5,644 m (Kala Patthar)Moderatebest Oct, Mar–Aprbusy in its best monthswith a flight
The whole trek is built for it. We walk early and late, rest at midday, and stay where the light is good. I walk with a camera too and I know where to stand, but I am your guide, not…
The walk, day by dayKanchenjunga Circuit
Kanchenjunga
20 daysup to 5,143 m (Pangpema (north base camp))Strenuousbest Oct–Nov, Aprquietwith a flight
Early light at Pangpema and Oktang is the best; we start before dawn on those days.
The walk, day by dayMakalu Base Camp
Makalu
20 daysup to 5,200 m (The ridge above Makalu Base Camp)Challengingbest Oct–Nov, Aprquietwith a flight
Makalu catches the first light from the base camp; mornings are clearest in the Barun valley.
The walk, day by dayManaslu and Tsum Valley
Manaslu
20 daysup to 5,106 m (Larke La)Challengingbest Oct–Nov, Aprbusy in its best monthsby road
The best light is early: Mu Gompa and the upper Tsum Valley at sunrise, and Manaslu from Lho and Samagaun. Afternoons are often cloudy.
The walk, day by dayJiri to Everest Base Camp
Khumbu (Everest)
21 daysup to 5,545 m (Kala Patthar)Strenuousbest Oct–Nov, Aprwith a flight
The Solu ridges at dawn; Kala Patthar at first light for Everest.
The walk, day by dayUpper Dolpo
Dolpo
23 daysup to 5,360 m (Kang La)Strenuousbest Sep–Oct, May–Junquietwith a flight
The best light is early: Phoksundo Lake at sunrise, and the plateau in the long evening light. Afternoons are windy.
The walk, day by dayIn the cold and the dust
- Cold empties batteries fast. Keep the spares in an inside pocket by day and in your sleeping bag at night.
- Lodges charge for charging, and higher up it may be solar only. Bring a power bank and charge whenever you can.
- Put the camera in a closed bag before you enter a warm dining room, so it does not mist up inside.
- Dust is everywhere in the dry season: change lenses with your back to the wind. Gear: camera gear for a Nepal trek.
- Weight adds up. Most porters and flights to Lukla have strict limits; I plan the bags with you.
People, temples and respect
- Ask before you photograph someone. A smile and a gesture are enough; I can ask for you in Nepali.
- Inside monasteries and temples, ask first; many do not allow photographs, and never use a flash during prayers.
- Do not pay children for photos, and ask parents first.
- If someone asks for the photograph, take their address or send it through me. It means a lot in the villages.
Drones
Flying a drone in Nepal needs permission in advance, and the rules are strict in national parks, near monasteries, airports and the border. Rules change; tell me early if you want to fly and I will check what is needed for your route. Without permission, the drone stays in the bag.
Questions people ask me
Will you take photographs for me on the trek?
No. On the trail I am your guide. I know where to wait and when the light comes, and I plan the days so you have time for it.
What is the best trek for photography in Nepal?
For the big peaks, Gokyo or the Annapurna Sanctuary; for culture and landscape, Upper Mustang or Manaslu; for a short walk, Poon Hill or Mardi Himal. Mountain view treks.
Can I bring a tripod?
Yes, a light one. It is welcome for sunrise and the night sky.
Not sure which trek suits you? Tell me your dates and what you hope for, and I will say honestly.
