Permit Details
Two permits are needed: the Nar Phu Restricted Area Permit and the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP).
Nar Phu is a restricted area. The permit is issued only through a registered trekking company, and you must walk with a licensed guide. Since March 2026 one trekker alone can get it. I arrange both permits with you through the registered company I work with, at the official price.
The permits are made in Kathmandu before we leave. Bring your passport and a passport photo. They are checked at Koto, where the restricted area begins.
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A hidden valley of stone villages, over the Kang La to Manang
A hidden side valley of the Annapurna region, opened to walkers only in 2003. Through a narrow gorge above Koto the trail climbs to the old stone villages of Phu and Nar, where herding families keep Tibetan Buddhist ways, then crosses the Kang La into the Manang valley. Quiet, wild and close to Tibet. I take an extra night at Dharmashala on the way up the gorge and a rest day in Phu, so the body is ready for the pass.
- Days
- 12 days
- Highest point
- 5,320 m
- Grade
- Challenging
- Best months
- Spring and Autumn
Jump to
From the trail
A private trek
Your trek, walked at your own pace
Namaste, and welcome. This is not a group trek. It is just you and the people you came with, and me beside you every day, from Kathmandu and back. We walk at the pace your body likes, stop for tea or a view whenever you want, and nobody is waiting for you at the top. In the mountains I want you to feel looked after, and free.
- The same guide all the way
- One person to ask, for the trail, the lodges, the weather and anything that goes wrong.
- Your pace, not a group's
- Slow is fine; we walk the way you feel good.
- A rest day when you need one
- If your body asks for a day, we take it.
- Down when the body says so
- If you feel unwell with the height, we go down, never up.
- Quiet places when we can
- Quieter lodges and quiet hours on the trail.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Just need a guide? $35 a day (for 1 to 5 people), on your own itinerary. Book me as your guide Rates and services
Along the way
The moments this route is known for.
- Phuan old stone village on a ridge, with the Tashi Lhakhang monastery
- Narfields, chortens and houses close to the sky
- The gorge above Kotowaterfalls and a narrow canyon path
- Kang Lathe pass into the Manang valley at 5,320 m
- Annapurna II, Gangapurna and Tilicho Peak from the pass
- Very few walkers compared with the Annapurna Circuit
How the trek climbs
From the day-by-day itineraryFor walkers who know the Alps: on day 9 you stand higher than the summit of Mont Blanc (about 4,800 m), and sleep lower again that night.
A night at Dharmashala breaks the steep climb out of the gorge, and a rest day in Phu comes before the pass. You sleep above 4,000 m in Phu and Nar.
Is this walk for you?
An honest answer before you book anything.It suits you if…
- You have walked several days in a row in the hills before, ideally at altitude.
- You want a quiet, wild valley and real village life.
- You are happy with simple lodges and family homes.
- You want to join the Annapurna Circuit, or go on over the Thorong La from Manang.
Think twice if…
- This is your first trek, or your first time above 3,000 m.
- You want comfortable rooms and many lodges to choose from.
- Steep, loose descents hurt your knees. The way down from the Kang La is steep.
- You have a heart or lung condition. Please ask your doctor before you write to me.
Not sure? Tell me how you usually walk, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The route as I walk it
This is how I usually walk it, slowly. It is an example, not a fixed package: we plan the days together, around you, the season and the weather.
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Day 1
Kathmandu to Koto by bus and jeep
Night 2,600 mA long day up the Marsyangdi valley, past Besisahar and Chame. About 9 to 10 hours.
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Day 2
Koto to Dharmashala
Night 3,230 mInto the restricted area, through the narrow Nar Phu gorge, past waterfalls and hot springs. About 5 hours.
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Day 3
Dharmashala to Meta
Night 3,560 mUp out of the gorge onto the open plateau. A short day. About 3 hours.
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Day 4
Meta to Kyang
Night 3,820 mPast chortens and old summer settlements. About 5 hours.
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Day 5
Kyang to Phu
Night 4,080 mThrough the old gate of Phu to the village on its ridge. About 4 hours.
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Day 6
Rest day in Phu
Night 4,080 mThe Tashi Lhakhang monastery, the village and a slow walk above it, then back down to sleep.
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Day 7
Phu to Nar Phedi
Night 3,490 mBack down the valley to the monastery at Nar Phedi. About 6 hours.
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Day 8
Nar Phedi to Nar
Night 4,110 mA steep climb to Nar village. A short day, with the afternoon in the village. About 3 hours.
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Day 9
Over the Kang La to Ngawal
Night 3,660 m Up to 5,320 m Highest pointWe leave before dawn. A long climb to the pass with views of the Annapurnas, then a steep, loose descent to Ngawal. About 8 to 9 hours.
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Day 10
Ngawal to Manang
Night 3,540 mAn easy morning along the upper Manang valley. About 3 hours.
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Day 11
Manang to Besisahar by jeep
Night 760 mDown the Marsyangdi valley by jeep. A long, bumpy day.
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Day 12
Besisahar to Kathmandu
Night 1,400 mBy bus or jeep. About 6 to 7 hours.
More about this walk
The trail in detail
The route
From Koto, on the Annapurna Circuit road, the trail turns north into the narrow Nar Phu gorge, climbs past Dharmashala to Meta on the plateau, and goes on through Kyang to Phu. After a rest day it comes back down to Nar Phedi, climbs to Nar, crosses the Kang La and comes down to Ngawal and Manang.
Why a night at Dharmashala
The usual plan walks from Koto to Meta in one day, almost 1,000 m higher. I break it at Dharmashala, so the body adjusts and the gorge can be walked slowly.
If the pass is closed
After fresh snow the Kang La can close. Then we walk back down the valley to Koto, or wait a day in Nar. Please keep a spare day.
Permits and the guide rule
You need two permits: the Nar Phu Restricted Area Permit and the ACAP. Read more in my guide to Nepal trekking permits and the licensed guide rule.
When to go
October and November have the clearest skies; April is good too. See the best time to trek in Nepal and altitude sickness on a Nepal trek.
The ground and getting ready
A narrow gorge path with bridges and steps, then open, dry plateau and stony trails between the villages. The pass day crosses rough, high ground and ends with a steep, loose descent. Days of 3 to 6 hours, and one of 8 to 9.
In the months before, walk long hill days back to back with a day pack, and practise steep descents. Earlier walking above 4,000 m helps.
People and places on the way
Phu and Nar are old stone villages of herding families, close to Tibet in language and faith. Phu has the Tashi Lhakhang monastery, and the valley is full of chortens, mani walls and prayer flags. Walk to the left of chortens and mani walls, and ask before photographing people.
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before walking it.- Lodges are few and simple; some are family homes.
- The drive in and out is long and rough, and slow after rain.
- The pass day is long: 8 to 9 hours, from 4,110 m up to 5,320 m and down to 3,660 m.
- The restricted permit costs more than in most areas.
- Snow can close the Kang La, mostly from December to March.
The pace
How long we walk each day, and where we stop.- On foot each day
- 3 to 6; 8 to 9 on the pass day
- Rest and acclimatisation days
- 1: Phu, plus short days to Meta and Nar
Days you can add
- A second night in Phu
- A night in Ngawal before Manang
- On over the Thorong La from Manang (about 4 more days)
If you walk with a camera
The best light is early: Phu and its gate at sunrise, and the Annapurnas from the Kang La in the morning. Afternoons are windy.
A day on the trail
An ordinary walking day. Times shift a little with the season and the day's distance.- 06:30Tea and breakfastPorridge, eggs or chapati. Bags packed for the day.
- 07:30WalkingCool air, the clearest mountain views of the day.
- 10:00Tea stopA break in a village, water bottles refilled.
- 12:00LunchDal bhat or noodle soup in a lodge on the way.
- 14:30Arrive at the lodgeMost days end by mid-afternoon, before clouds build.
- 16:00Free timeWash, rest, wander the village, a short walk up.
- 18:30DinnerWarm dining room, tomorrow's plan, early night.
On the pass day we leave Nar around 4 or 5 in the morning, with head torches, to be over the top before the afternoon wind.
When to walk it
The Kang La needs clear, dry days.- ColdJAN
- ColdFEB
- GoodMAR
- BestAPR
- GoodMAY
- WetJUN
- WetJUL
- WetAUG
- GoodSEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- ColdDEC
Quiet months March, April, May, September, November: few people on the trail.
- January: monsoon
- February: monsoon
- March: Quiet
- April: Quiet
- May: Quiet
- June: monsoon
- July: monsoon
- August: monsoon
- September: Quiet
- October: Some
- November: Quiet
- December: monsoon
October and November have the clearest skies; April is good too. From December to March the pass can be closed by snow and some families leave the high villages, so please ask me first.
Good to know
The small practical things people ask me most.- Restricted areaA licensed guide and a registered trekking company are required. Since March 2026 one trekker alone can get the permit.
- AcclimatisationA night at Dharmashala, a rest day in Phu and a short day to Nar before the pass. If anyone feels unwell we stop, and we go down if it does not get better.
- MoneyThere are no cash machines after Besisahar. Bring enough rupees from Kathmandu, in small notes.
- Phone and internetSignal is patchy, and often missing in Phu and Nar.
- WaterRefill from lodge taps and streams and treat it with tablets or a filter. No plastic bottles needed.
- RespectWalk to the left of chortens and mani walls, and ask before photographing people or the inside of a monastery.
Full details in Packing list, Food & stay and Permits.
Practical
Permits and paperwork
Restricted area: a special permit is needed
- Region
- Annapurna Region
- Province
- Western Development Region
- Zone
- Gandaki Zone
- District
- Manang
Official information: Department of Immigration, Nepal
Food and places to stay
Food & Accommodation
Accommodation
ACCOMMODATION – Moderate
- Classic Mountain Teahouses: Lodging along moderate-grade routes primarily consists of traditional family-run teahouses and local lodges.
- Room Setup: Rooms are simple and clean, typically twin-sharing with two single beds, firm mattresses, pillows, and basic blankets.
- Privacy & Comfort: Rooms are private with lockable doors; earplugs are recommended as interior walls are thin.
- Bathroom Facilities: En-suite bathrooms are occasionally available at lower elevations, transitioning to shared squat or western-style toilets higher up.
- Power & Hot Showers: Device charging and hot gas/solar showers are available along the trail, usually for a small extra fee at higher altitudes.
Challenging Trekking Accommodation
Accommodation is provided in comfortable local tea houses throughout the trek. Rooms are simple but clean, usually offering twin-sharing beds with blankets.
- Twin-Sharing Rooms
- Hot Shower Where available ( Need to Pay Extra )
- Blanket
Food
Challenging Trekking Food
Nutritious meals are essential for maintaining energy at high altitude. Meals include a variety of local and international dishes such as:
- Dal Bhat
- Fried rice
- Noodles
- Pasta
- Soups
- Potatoes
- Tibetan bread
- Pancakes
- Eggs
- Tea and coffee
FOOD & DINING
- Communal Dining Hall: Meals are served in the central teahouse dining room, which is heated by a wood or yak-dung stove in the evenings.
- Local Favorites: Dal Bhat (lentil soup, rice, vegetable curry, and pickles) is the staple—it offers free refills and provides maximum energy for trekking.
- International Options: Menus feature a variety of options including fried rice, noodles, pasta, momos (dumplings), pancakes, and eggs.
- Hot Beverages: A wide selection of drinks is available daily, including black tea, ginger lemon honey tea, milk tea, coffee, and hot chocolate.
- Dietary Needs: Vegetarian and vegan options are widely available; avoiding meat at higher elevations is recommended for fresh food safety.
What to pack
Everything a teahouse trek needs is in my packing list: Nepal Trekking Packing List: What to Bring (and What Not To) →
Challenging Trek Packing List
CHALLENGING GRADE TREKKING PACKING LIST
MODERATE GRADE PACKING LIST
For multi-day mountain treks reaching up to about 5,500 m with gradual elevation gain.
Safety on the trail
- Licensed & Trained Guide Your safety is the foundation of every trip I lead. I am licensed by the Government of Nepal as a trekking guide (licence no. 18550) and a tour guide (licence no. 4606), and trained in first aid, basic rescue and trekking-based search and rescue. I check your gear and the weather before every stage, so you can enjoy the trek with peace of mind. For groups larger than four, I bring in additional government-licensed guides I have worked with before.
- Health & First Aid Certified Wilderness First Responder: I hold up-to-date certifications in Wilderness First Aid and CPR, ensuring I am fully trained to handle medical emergencies, injuries, and illnesses in remote terrain. Proactive Health & Altitude Tracking: Your safety is my daily priority. I monitor your pulse, oxygen saturation (SpO2), and acclimatisation levels daily using a pulse oximeter to catch early signs of Altitude Sickness (AMS). Fully Stocked First Aid Kit: I carry a comprehensive medical kit on every trek, equipped with essential medications, wound dressings, and emergency response supplies tailored to the route. Established Emergency & Evacuation Protocols: I maintain clear protocols and direct lines of communication for medical evacuations, including swift coordination with helicopter rescue teams if severe conditions arise. Strict Hygiene & Safe Water Standards: I ensure clean, safe drinking water throughout the trail and verify strict hygiene practices during all meal breaks to protect you against waterborne illnesses. Personalised Care & Medical Attention: Before we step onto the trail, I review any health concerns or allergies you may have so I can cater to your needs and adapt our pace accordingly.
- Communication Satellite & Emergency Communication: I carry a reliable satellite messaging device (such as a Garmin inReach) to stay connected in remote areas with no cellular coverage, allowing for real-time location tracking and instant SOS capabilities. Daily Family & Loved One Updates: When signal or satellite access allows, I provide regular updates to your emergency contacts or loved ones so they always know you are safe and on schedule. Transparent Route & Weather Briefings: Before we set off each day, I conduct clear briefings on the upcoming terrain, expected weather conditions, trail milestones, and safety protocols. Open & Encouraging Dialogue: I foster an environment where you can freely express how you’re feeling—whether you're experiencing fatigue, discomfort, or symptoms of altitude—without hesitation or judgment. Direct Operations & Rescue Contact: I maintain continuous connectivity with ground support, local lodge networks, and emergency rescue services to coordinate logistics seamlessly if plans need to adjust.
- Route Experience Deep Local & Trail Knowledge: Having navigated these routes extensively across varying seasons, I know the terrain, trail conditions, hidden hazards, and optimal rest spots in intimate detail. Flexible & Adaptive Itineraries: I constantly evaluate trail status, weather patterns, and team energy levels, making smart, real-time adjustments to our daily pace or route to avoid risky conditions. Smart Pace & Acclimatisation Management: I set a steady, sustainable pace (bistarai, bistarai) designed specifically to promote proper altitude adaptation and prevent physical burnout. Vetted Rest Stops & Accommodation: I choose reliable, high-standard teahouses, campsites, and lodge networks along the route, ensuring safe, hygienic, and comfortable places to rest every night. Terrain & Environmental Hazard Navigation: From loose scree and river crossings to icy passes and rockfall zones, I guide you through technical and treacherous trail sections with hands-on support and proper technique.
- Daily Health Check Morning & Evening Health Checks: I conduct routine health check-ins every morning and evening to track how your body is adapting to the altitude, workload, and changing climate. Vital Signs & SpO2 Monitoring: Using a medical-grade pulse oximeter, I measure your blood oxygen levels (SpO2) and heart rate twice daily to spot early, subtle signs of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Lake Louise Scoring System: I utilize the standardized Lake Louise Score card to systematically assess symptoms like headache, fatigue, nausea, and sleep quality, taking the guesswork out of altitude safety. Hydration & Appetite Tracking: I monitor your daily fluid intake and meal consumption, ensuring you stay properly hydrated and sufficiently fueled for tough trekking days. Early Intervention & Action Plans: If any health metrics or symptoms dip, I take immediate, preventive action—whether that means adjusting our daily pace, adding a rest day, or initiating a controlled descent.
- Emergency Evacuation Direct Helicopter & Ground Coordination: In the event of severe illness or injury, I maintain direct contact with local helicopter rescue operators and ground transport services to arrange immediate, rapid evacuation. Insurance Verification & Claims Support: Before setting out, I review and verify your high-altitude travel insurance details so rescue protocols can be triggered instantly without bureaucratic delays. Rapid Medical Evacuation Protocols: I carry standard, high-altitude emergency protocols to prepare and stabilize you quickly, ensuring a swift transfer to the nearest medical facility or hospital in Kathmandu. Constant SOS Satellite Connectivity: Using my satellite messaging device, I can trigger a 24/7 global emergency SOS and send exact GPS coordinates to search-and-rescue teams, even in complete dead zones. 24/7 Ground Operations Backing: I work alongside an experienced city-based support team that coordinates hospital admissions, logistics, and communication with your insurance provider and loved ones while I manage the evacuation on-site.
For your budget
My guide fee for this walk is about $ 35 a day, the same for 1 to 5 people.
A porter, if you hire one: about the same as a guide's day rate. Permits, transport, rooms and meals are paid separately, at cost.
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Where your money goes
Every cost of this trek, who receives it, and nothing hidden.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide (me) | Rujan Neupane | My day rate × 12 days | One rate for 1 to 5 people |
| Nar Phu Restricted Area Permit | Department of Immigration | US$100 a week (September to November); US$75 a week (December to August) | Official price, paid at cost through the registered company |
| Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) | National Trust for Nature Conservation | NPR 3,000 | Official price, paid at cost |
| Bus and jeep to Koto and back from Manang | The bus company and drivers | The local fare | Shared or private jeep, you choose; paid at cost |
| Lodges and meals | Family lodges and homes on the trail | What the lodge charges | You pay the lodges directly; I never add anything |
| Hot showers, charging | The lodges | A few hundred rupees each | Paid as you use them |
Trip documents
Made from this page, always up to date. Download and print, or keep them on your phone.
Walking gently
How we leave the trail as we found it.- Refill, don't buyPurified water in the villages instead of plastic bottles.
- Stay with familiesWe sleep and eat in locally owned lodges, so the money stays in the valley.
- Quiet respectWalk clockwise around stupas and prayer walls, and ask before taking photos of people.
- Carry it outWhatever we bring up, we carry down again.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- When I'd say noIf the season, your fitness or the weather make a trek unsafe, I'll tell you plainly and suggest something better.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the trekker wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you walk it
What I would read first, from my own guides and walks.Guides to read first
Frequently asked questions
Which permits do I need?
The Nar Phu Restricted Area Permit and the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP). I arrange them with you through the registered company I work with, at the official price.
How hard is the Kang La?
A long pass day above 5,000 m with a steep, loose descent. The night at Dharmashala and the rest day in Phu help the body adjust first.
Can I continue over the Thorong La?
Yes. From Manang you can join the Annapurna Circuit and cross the Thorong La instead of driving out. It adds about four days.
Can I walk it alone?
Not without a guide. Since March 2026 one trekker alone can get the permit, but a licensed guide and a registered company are still required.
Are there lodges?
Yes, simple ones and family homes in Meta, Kyang, Phu and Nar. They are basic and cold, but welcoming.
What happens if someone feels the altitude?
We stop and rest. If it does not get better, we go down at once. Every night on this route has a lower place to go to.
Reviews from trekkers who walked with me are published automatically, exactly as they wrote them. Reviews sent through the open form are checked for spam only.
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Plan it with me
Tell me how you'd like to walk it. I'll plan the rest around you.
Send your dates, group size and anything you'd like to change, whichever way suits you.
- +977 984-3808583
- Phone
- +977 984-3808583
Prefer to shape it yourself? Plan it step by step
More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.
Verified credentials
My licences and training papers. Open any file to see the original.
Guide Association Membership
Write to me about this trek
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How I grade my treks
Every trek I guide is rated one of 4 grades, based on altitude, daily walking time, terrain, and the experience it takes to enjoy it comfortably.