Permit Details
The Annapurna Conservation Area permit is needed, at the official price. I arrange it with you before we leave Pokhara. Carry your passport and two photos.
Thank you.
Your review of Mohare Danda and Khopra Danda Trek: Two Quiet Ridges facing Dhaulagiri means a lot — I read every one myself.
Held for a quick check — it'll appear on this page once approved, usually within a day.
Two quiet ridges west of Poon Hill, joined by forest and community lodges, with Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas in front of you
Mohare Danda and Khopra Danda Trek: Two Quiet Ridges facing Dhaulagiri
West of the busy Poon Hill trail, two long ridges look straight at Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas, and very few people walk them. This trek joins them: up through Magar villages to Mohare Danda, along the forested ridge by Dobato and Chistibung to Khopra Danda, and down through Swanta to the hot springs of Tatopani. The lodges are simple and many are run by the villages themselves. The highest nights are only about 3,300 to 3,660 m, so it suits walkers who are new to altitude and want time, quiet and big mountains.
- Days
- 13 days
- Highest point
- 4,600 m
- Grade
- Moderate
- Best months
- Spring and Autumn
Jump to
A private trek
Your trek, walked at your own pace
Namaste, and welcome. This is not a group trek. It is just you and the people you came with, and me beside you every day, from Kathmandu and back. We walk at the pace your body likes, stop for tea or a view whenever you want, and nobody is waiting for you at the top. In the mountains I want you to feel looked after, and free.
- The same guide all the way
- One person to ask, for the trail, the lodges, the weather and anything that goes wrong.
- Your pace, not a group's
- Slow is fine; we walk the way you feel good.
- A rest day when you need one
- If your body asks for a day, we take it.
- Down when the body says so
- If you feel unwell with the height, we go down, never up.
- Quiet places when we can
- Quieter lodges and quiet hours on the trail.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Just need a guide? $35 a day (for 1 to 5 people), on your own itinerary. Book me as your guide Rates and services
Along the way
The moments this route is known for.
- Dhaulagiri, Annapurna South and Machhapuchhre from two ridges
- Rhododendron forest in flower in March and April
- Community lodges run by the villages
- Khayar, a holy lake above Khopra, for those who feel well
- The hot springs of Tatopani at the end
- Far fewer walkers than Poon Hill
How the trek climbs
From the day-by-day itineraryThe highest nights are Mohare Danda, about 3,300 m, and Khopra Danda, about 3,660 m, with a rest day on each ridge. Khayar Lake, about 4,600 m, is a long day walk up and back from Khopra, only for those who feel well.
Is this walk for you?
An honest answer before you book anything.It suits you if…
- You want quiet ridges and big mountains, away from the crowds.
- You are new to altitude and want a gentle climb.
- You are happy with simple community lodges.
- You can walk 5 to 6 hours a day for ten days.
Think twice if…
- You want comfortable lodges with hot showers every night.
- You want to stand at a famous base camp.
- You want many Buddhist monasteries: these are mostly Magar and Gurung villages.
- You have only a week.
Not sure? Tell me how you usually walk, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The route as I walk it
This is how I usually walk it, slowly. It is an example, not a fixed package: we plan the days together, around you, the season and the weather.
-
Day 1
Kathmandu to Pokhara
Night 822 mBy road along the Trishuli and Marsyangdi rivers, about 6 to 7 hours, or a short flight.
-
Day 2
Drive to Galeshwor, walk to Banskharka
Night 1,520 mBy Beni to Galeshwor on the Kali Gandaki, then up through fields to Banskharka. About 3 hours by road, 2 to 3 hours on foot.
-
Day 3
Banskharka to Nangi
Night 2,300 mUp through forest and terraces to Nangi, a Magar village. About 5 to 6 hours.
-
Day 4
Nangi to Mohare Danda
Night 3,300 mThrough rhododendron forest to the community lodge on the ridge. About 5 to 6 hours.
-
Day 5
A day on Mohare Danda
Night 3,300 mSunrise on Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas, then a calm day on the ridge.
-
Day 6
Mohare Danda to Dobato
Night 3,420 mAlong the ridge through forest to Dobato. About 4 to 5 hours.
-
Day 7
Dobato to Chistibung
Night 2,975 mOver forested ridges and down to the pastures of Chistibung. About 5 to 6 hours.
-
Day 8
Chistibung to Khopra Danda
Night 3,660 mUp through rhododendron to the community lodge on Khopra Danda. About 4 to 5 hours.
-
Day 9
A day at Khopra
Night 3,660 m Up to 4,600 m Highest pointIf you feel well, a long walk up to Khayar Lake and back; otherwise rest and look at the mountains.
-
Day 10
Khopra Danda to Swanta
Night 2,200 mA long way down through forest to the village of Swanta. About 5 to 6 hours.
-
Day 11
Swanta to Tatopani
Night 1,190 mDown to the Kali Gandaki and the hot springs of Tatopani. About 5 to 6 hours.
-
Day 12
Tatopani to Pokhara
Night 822 mBy jeep down the valley by Beni to Pokhara. About 5 to 6 hours.
-
Day 13
Pokhara to Kathmandu
Night 1,400 mBy road or a short flight.
More about this walk
The trail in detail
The route
From Pokhara the road goes by Beni to Galeshwor on the Kali Gandaki. The trail climbs through the Magar villages of Banskharka and Nangi to Mohare Danda, about 3,300 m, then follows the forested ridge by Dobato and the pastures of Chistibung to Khopra Danda, about 3,660 m. Above Khopra lies Khayar Lake, about 4,600 m, a holy lake reached in a long day walk. The way down goes through the village of Swanta to Tatopani on the Kali Gandaki, with its hot springs.
The community lodges
Many lodges on these ridges were built and are run by the villages, so the money from walkers stays in the hills. They are simple: a warm kitchen, shared rooms and dal bhat.
The ground and getting ready
Village paths, stone steps and long stretches of forest trail; some steep climbs and long descents. No high pass and no glacier.
In the months before, walk long hill days with a light pack.
People and places on the way
Magar and Gurung villages with terraced fields and small temples. Khayar Lake is holy: do not wash or swim in it. Greet people with namaste, and ask before photographing.
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before walking it.- The lodges are simple: shared rooms, shared toilets, cold nights on the ridges.
- Fewer lodges means less choice; in spring and autumn it is worth writing ahead.
- The roads to Galeshwor and from Tatopani are rough in places.
- The mountains are often in cloud after mid-morning, especially in spring.
- Khayar Lake is a long, high day; we turn back if anyone feels unwell.
The pace
How long we walk each day, and where we stop.- On foot each day
- 4 to 6
- Rest and acclimatisation days
- Two: Mohare Danda and Khopra
Days you can add
- A night in Nangi
- A second night at Khopra
- On to Ghorepani and Poon Hill
If you walk with a camera
Dawn on both ridges; a second night gives two chances at clear light.
A day on the trail
An ordinary walking day. Times shift a little with the season and the day's distance.- 06:30Tea and breakfastPorridge, eggs or chapati. Bags packed for the day.
- 07:30WalkingCool air, the clearest mountain views of the day.
- 10:00Tea stopA break in a village, water bottles refilled.
- 12:00LunchDal bhat or noodle soup in a lodge on the way.
- 14:30Arrive at the lodgeMost days end by mid-afternoon, before clouds build.
- 16:00Free timeWash, rest, wander the village, a short walk up.
- 18:30DinnerWarm dining room, tomorrow's plan, early night.
On the ridges we are up before dawn: the mountains are clearest at first light.
When to walk it
March and April for the rhododendrons, October and November for the clearest air.- ColdJAN
- GoodFEB
- BestMAR
- BestAPR
- GoodMAY
- WetJUN
- WetJUL
- WetAUG
- WetSEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- GoodDEC
Quiet months This trail has company in every walking month; the start of each season is calmest.
- January: monsoon
- February: monsoon
- March: monsoon
- April: monsoon
- May: monsoon
- June: monsoon
- July: monsoon
- August: monsoon
- September: monsoon
- October: monsoon
- November: monsoon
- December: monsoon
In winter the ridges can have frost and snow, and the walk to Khayar Lake may not be possible. In the monsoon the trail is muddy and the mountains hidden.
Good to know
The small practical things people ask me most.- Licensed guideSince April 2023 foreign trekkers in most of Nepal must walk with a licensed guide.
- MoneyNo cash machines on the trail. Carry rupees in small notes for lodges, homestays, showers and charging.
- PhoneSignal is patchy or absent in places. I carry a way to call for help where there is none; ask me.
- WaterRefill from lodge or village taps and treat it with tablets or a filter. No plastic bottles needed.
- Poon Hill tooFrom Mohare Danda or Swanta the trail links to Ghorepani, if you want to add the famous sunrise.
Full details in Packing list and Permits.
Practical
Permits and paperwork
Open zone: no restricted-area permit needed
- Region
- Annapurna Region
- Province
- Western Development Region
- Zone
- Dhaulagiri Zone
Official information: Department of Immigration, Nepal
What to pack
Everything a teahouse trek needs is in my packing list: Nepal Trekking Packing List: What to Bring (and What Not To) →
For multi-day mountain treks reaching up to about 5,500 m with gradual elevation gain.
Safety on the trail
- Licensed & Trained Guide Your safety is the foundation of every trip I lead. I am licensed by the Government of Nepal as a trekking guide (licence no. 18550) and a tour guide (licence no. 4606), and trained in first aid, basic rescue and trekking-based search and rescue. I check your gear and the weather before every stage, so you can enjoy the trek with peace of mind. For groups larger than four, I bring in additional government-licensed guides I have worked with before.
- Health & First Aid Certified Wilderness First Responder: I hold up-to-date certifications in Wilderness First Aid and CPR, ensuring I am fully trained to handle medical emergencies, injuries, and illnesses in remote terrain. Proactive Health & Altitude Tracking: Your safety is my daily priority. I monitor your pulse, oxygen saturation (SpO2), and acclimatisation levels daily using a pulse oximeter to catch early signs of Altitude Sickness (AMS). Fully Stocked First Aid Kit: I carry a comprehensive medical kit on every trek, equipped with essential medications, wound dressings, and emergency response supplies tailored to the route. Established Emergency & Evacuation Protocols: I maintain clear protocols and direct lines of communication for medical evacuations, including swift coordination with helicopter rescue teams if severe conditions arise. Strict Hygiene & Safe Water Standards: I ensure clean, safe drinking water throughout the trail and verify strict hygiene practices during all meal breaks to protect you against waterborne illnesses. Personalised Care & Medical Attention: Before we step onto the trail, I review any health concerns or allergies you may have so I can cater to your needs and adapt our pace accordingly.
- Communication Satellite & Emergency Communication: I carry a reliable satellite messaging device (such as a Garmin inReach) to stay connected in remote areas with no cellular coverage, allowing for real-time location tracking and instant SOS capabilities. Daily Family & Loved One Updates: When signal or satellite access allows, I provide regular updates to your emergency contacts or loved ones so they always know you are safe and on schedule. Transparent Route & Weather Briefings: Before we set off each day, I conduct clear briefings on the upcoming terrain, expected weather conditions, trail milestones, and safety protocols. Open & Encouraging Dialogue: I foster an environment where you can freely express how you’re feeling—whether you're experiencing fatigue, discomfort, or symptoms of altitude—without hesitation or judgment. Direct Operations & Rescue Contact: I maintain continuous connectivity with ground support, local lodge networks, and emergency rescue services to coordinate logistics seamlessly if plans need to adjust.
- Route Experience Deep Local & Trail Knowledge: Having navigated these routes extensively across varying seasons, I know the terrain, trail conditions, hidden hazards, and optimal rest spots in intimate detail. Flexible & Adaptive Itineraries: I constantly evaluate trail status, weather patterns, and team energy levels, making smart, real-time adjustments to our daily pace or route to avoid risky conditions. Smart Pace & Acclimatisation Management: I set a steady, sustainable pace (bistarai, bistarai) designed specifically to promote proper altitude adaptation and prevent physical burnout. Vetted Rest Stops & Accommodation: I choose reliable, high-standard teahouses, campsites, and lodge networks along the route, ensuring safe, hygienic, and comfortable places to rest every night. Terrain & Environmental Hazard Navigation: From loose scree and river crossings to icy passes and rockfall zones, I guide you through technical and treacherous trail sections with hands-on support and proper technique.
- Daily Health Check Morning & Evening Health Checks: I conduct routine health check-ins every morning and evening to track how your body is adapting to the altitude, workload, and changing climate. Vital Signs & SpO2 Monitoring: Using a medical-grade pulse oximeter, I measure your blood oxygen levels (SpO2) and heart rate twice daily to spot early, subtle signs of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Lake Louise Scoring System: I utilize the standardized Lake Louise Score card to systematically assess symptoms like headache, fatigue, nausea, and sleep quality, taking the guesswork out of altitude safety. Hydration & Appetite Tracking: I monitor your daily fluid intake and meal consumption, ensuring you stay properly hydrated and sufficiently fueled for tough trekking days. Early Intervention & Action Plans: If any health metrics or symptoms dip, I take immediate, preventive action—whether that means adjusting our daily pace, adding a rest day, or initiating a controlled descent.
- Emergency Evacuation Direct Helicopter & Ground Coordination: In the event of severe illness or injury, I maintain direct contact with local helicopter rescue operators and ground transport services to arrange immediate, rapid evacuation. Insurance Verification & Claims Support: Before setting out, I review and verify your high-altitude travel insurance details so rescue protocols can be triggered instantly without bureaucratic delays. Rapid Medical Evacuation Protocols: I carry standard, high-altitude emergency protocols to prepare and stabilize you quickly, ensuring a swift transfer to the nearest medical facility or hospital in Kathmandu. Constant SOS Satellite Connectivity: Using my satellite messaging device, I can trigger a 24/7 global emergency SOS and send exact GPS coordinates to search-and-rescue teams, even in complete dead zones. 24/7 Ground Operations Backing: I work alongside an experienced city-based support team that coordinates hospital admissions, logistics, and communication with your insurance provider and loved ones while I manage the evacuation on-site.
For your budget
My guide fee for this walk is about $ 35 a day, the same for 1 to 5 people.
A porter, if you hire one: about the same as a guide's day rate. Permits, transport, rooms and meals are paid separately, at cost.
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Where your money goes
Every cost of this trek, who receives it, and nothing hidden.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide (me) | Rujan Neupane | My day rate × 13 days | One rate for 1 to 5 people |
| Annapurna Conservation Area permit | The conservation area (ACAP) | Official price | Paid at cost |
| Road Kathmandu–Pokhara and back | The driver, the bus or the airline | Agreed before the trek | Paid at cost |
| Jeeps Pokhara–Galeshwor and Tatopani–Pokhara | The jeep owners | Agreed before the trek | Paid at cost |
| Hot springs at Tatopani | The springs | Their small fee | Paid at cost |
| Porter, if you want one | The porter | His day rate | Paid to him |
| Lodges, homestays and meals | Families on the trail | What they charge | You pay them directly; I never add anything |
Trip documents
Made from this page, always up to date. Download and print, or keep them on your phone.
Walking gently
How we leave the trail as we found it.- Refill, don't buyPurified water in the villages instead of plastic bottles.
- Stay with familiesWe sleep and eat in locally owned lodges, so the money stays in the valley.
- Quiet respectWalk clockwise around stupas and prayer walls, and ask before taking photos of people.
- Carry it outWhatever we bring up, we carry down again.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- When I'd say noIf the season, your fitness or the weather make a trek unsafe, I'll tell you plainly and suggest something better.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the trekker wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you walk it
What I would read first, from my own guides and walks.Guides to read first
Frequently asked questions
How high does it go?
The highest night is Khopra Danda, about 3,660 m. Khayar Lake, about 4,600 m, is an optional day walk.
Is it good for a first time at altitude?
Yes. It climbs slowly, with a rest day on each ridge.
Is it busy?
No. It is much quieter than Poon Hill nearby.
Can I camp?
Yes, on some nights, if you bring a tent; we decide where together.
Are there Buddhist monasteries?
Few: these are mostly Magar and Gurung villages. For Buddhist culture, Langtang or Solu suit better.
When is best?
March to April, and October to November.
Reviews from trekkers who walked with me are published automatically, exactly as they wrote them. Reviews sent through the open form are checked for spam only.
Reviews
0 reviewsNo reviews yet. Be the first to share how your trek went.
Share your experience
Walked this route with me? Your review is held for a quick check before it's shown here.
Plan it with me
Tell me how you'd like to walk it. I'll plan the rest around you.
Send your dates, group size and anything you'd like to change, whichever way suits you.
- +977 984-3808583
- Phone
- +977 984-3808583
Prefer to shape it yourself? Plan it step by step
More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.
Verified credentials
My licences and training papers. Open any file to see the original.
Guide Association Membership
Write to me about this trek
Enquiring about: Mohare Danda and Khopra Danda Trek: Two Quiet Ridges facing Dhaulagiri — tell me your dates and group size and I'll write back myself, with what I know about your dates and the real costs.
How I grade my treks
Every trek I guide is rated one of 4 grades, based on altitude, daily walking time, terrain, and the experience it takes to enjoy it comfortably.