Upper Dolpo

The route

From Juphal the trail goes down to Dunai and up the Suli Gad to Phoksundo Lake. After a rest day by the lake it follows the cliff trail along the shore, climbs the Phoksundo Khola and crosses the Kang La to Shey Gompa. From Shey it crosses the Nangdalo La to Saldang, goes on through Sibu, over the Jeng La to the Tarap valley and Dho Tarap, and comes back down the Tarap Khola gorge to Dunai and Juphal.

Camping, honestly

There are simple lodges and homestays around Phoksundo and in a few villages, but most nights beyond the lake are in tents. A small crew comes with us: a cook, helpers and pack animals. I plan it with you before the trek, and you pay them directly, at their own rates.

Spare days

The Juphal flights often wait for the weather, and snow can close a pass for a day or two. Please keep two or three spare days at the end.

Permits and the guide rule

You need the Upper and Lower Dolpo Restricted Area Permits and the Shey Phoksundo National Park permit. Read more in my guide to Nepal trekking permits and the licensed guide rule.

When to go

May, June, September and October are the best months. See the best time to trek in Nepal and altitude sickness on a Nepal trek.

River and forest trails in the first days, the narrow cliff path along Phoksundo Lake, then high, dry plateau with three passes over 5,000 m and long, steep descents. Days of 4 to 7 hours.

This walk needs real fitness and earlier experience at altitude. In the months before, walk long hill days back to back with a pack, and practise steep descents.

Dolpo is home to Tibetan Buddhist and Bon communities. Ringmo has a Bon monastery on the lakeshore, Shey Gompa is a sacred Buddhist monastery below Crystal Mountain, and Saldang and Dho Tarap have old gompas and chortens. Walk clockwise around Buddhist shrines and anticlockwise around Bon ones, and ask before photographing people.

• Licensed & Trained Guide Your safety is the foundation of every trip I lead. I am licensed by the Government of Nepal as a trekking guide (licence no. 18550) and a tour guide (licence no. 4606), and trained in first aid, basic rescue and trekking-based search and rescue. I check your gear and the weather before every stage, so you can enjoy the trek with peace of mind. For groups larger than four, I bring in additional government-licensed guides I have worked with before.
• Health & First Aid Certified Wilderness First Responder: I hold up-to-date certifications in Wilderness First Aid and CPR, ensuring I am fully trained to handle medical emergencies, injuries, and illnesses in remote terrain. Proactive Health & Altitude Tracking: Your safety is my daily priority. I monitor your pulse, oxygen saturation (SpO2), and acclimatisation levels daily using a pulse oximeter to catch early signs of Altitude Sickness (AMS). Fully Stocked First Aid Kit: I carry a comprehensive medical kit on every trek, equipped with essential medications, wound dressings, and emergency response supplies tailored to the route. Established Emergency & Evacuation Protocols: I maintain clear protocols and direct lines of communication for medical evacuations, including swift coordination with helicopter rescue teams if severe conditions arise. Strict Hygiene & Safe Water Standards: I ensure clean, safe drinking water throughout the trail and verify strict hygiene practices during all meal breaks to protect you against waterborne illnesses. Personalised Care & Medical Attention: Before we step onto the trail, I review any health concerns or allergies you may have so I can cater to your needs and adapt our pace accordingly.
• Communication Satellite & Emergency Communication: I carry a reliable satellite messaging device (such as a Garmin inReach) to stay connected in remote areas with no cellular coverage, allowing for real-time location tracking and instant SOS capabilities. Daily Family & Loved One Updates: When signal or satellite access allows, I provide regular updates to your emergency contacts or loved ones so they always know you are safe and on schedule. Transparent Route & Weather Briefings: Before we set off each day, I conduct clear briefings on the upcoming terrain, expected weather conditions, trail milestones, and safety protocols. Open & Encouraging Dialogue: I foster an environment where you can freely express how you’re feeling—whether you're experiencing fatigue, discomfort, or symptoms of altitude—without hesitation or judgment. Direct Operations & Rescue Contact: I maintain continuous connectivity with ground support, local lodge networks, and emergency rescue services to coordinate logistics seamlessly if plans need to adjust.
• Route Experience Deep Local & Trail Knowledge: Having navigated these routes extensively across varying seasons, I know the terrain, trail conditions, hidden hazards, and optimal rest spots in intimate detail. Flexible & Adaptive Itineraries: I constantly evaluate trail status, weather patterns, and team energy levels, making smart, real-time adjustments to our daily pace or route to avoid risky conditions. Smart Pace & Acclimatisation Management: I set a steady, sustainable pace (bistarai, bistarai) designed specifically to promote proper altitude adaptation and prevent physical burnout. Vetted Rest Stops & Accommodation: I choose reliable, high-standard teahouses, campsites, and lodge networks along the route, ensuring safe, hygienic, and comfortable places to rest every night. Terrain & Environmental Hazard Navigation: From loose scree and river crossings to icy passes and rockfall zones, I guide you through technical and treacherous trail sections with hands-on support and proper technique.
• Daily Health Check Morning & Evening Health Checks: I conduct routine health check-ins every morning and evening to track how your body is adapting to the altitude, workload, and changing climate. Vital Signs & SpO2 Monitoring: Using a medical-grade pulse oximeter, I measure your blood oxygen levels (SpO2​) and heart rate twice daily to spot early, subtle signs of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Lake Louise Scoring System: I utilize the standardized Lake Louise Score card to systematically assess symptoms like headache, fatigue, nausea, and sleep quality, taking the guesswork out of altitude safety. Hydration & Appetite Tracking: I monitor your daily fluid intake and meal consumption, ensuring you stay properly hydrated and sufficiently fueled for tough trekking days. Early Intervention & Action Plans: If any health metrics or symptoms dip, I take immediate, preventive action—whether that means adjusting our daily pace, adding a rest day, or initiating a controlled descent.
• Emergency Evacuation Direct Helicopter & Ground Coordination: In the event of severe illness or injury, I maintain direct contact with local helicopter rescue operators and ground transport services to arrange immediate, rapid evacuation. Insurance Verification & Claims Support: Before setting out, I review and verify your high-altitude travel insurance details so rescue protocols can be triggered instantly without bureaucratic delays. Rapid Medical Evacuation Protocols: I carry standard, high-altitude emergency protocols to prepare and stabilize you quickly, ensuring a swift transfer to the nearest medical facility or hospital in Kathmandu. Constant SOS Satellite Connectivity: Using my satellite messaging device, I can trigger a 24/7 global emergency SOS and send exact GPS coordinates to search-and-rescue teams, even in complete dead zones. 24/7 Ground Operations Backing: I work alongside an experienced city-based support team that coordinates hospital admissions, logistics, and communication with your insurance provider and loved ones while I manage the evacuation on-site.

Made from this page, always up to date. Download and print, or keep them on your phone.

• Route sheet PDFThe route day by day, altitudes and safety points: for the trail.
• Before you go PDFIs it for you, months, permits, budget, packing lists to tick.
• Safety plan PDFWho to call, where to go down, warning signs, a card to fill in.