Photo: Александр Пушкин archived https://web.archive.org/web/20161103000101/http://www.panoramio.com/user/1427497?with_photo_id=127112166, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons
Permit Details
The Annapurna Conservation Area permit is needed, at the official price. I arrange it with you before we leave Pokhara. Carry your passport and two photos.
Thank you.
Your review of Annapurna North Base Camp Trek: Herzog’s Way up the Miristi Khola means a lot — I read every one myself.
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A rough, wild week from Narchyang up the Miristi Khola to the north side of Annapurna I, about 4,190 m, by the way the first climbers came in 1950
In 1950 a French team led by Maurice Herzog found its way to the foot of Annapurna I up the deep gorge of the Miristi Khola, and made the first ascent of an 8,000 m peak. This trek follows that side: from the village of Narchyang above the Kali Gandaki, up through bamboo and forest to the high pastures, and over a rocky shoulder to the north base camp of Annapurna I, at about 4,190 m. There are no lodges above the village. It is rough, steep and very quiet, with the north face of Annapurna at the end.
- Days
- 8 days
- Highest point
- 4,190 m
- Grade
- Challenging
- Best months
- Spring and Autumn
Jump to
A private trek
Your trek, walked at your own pace
Namaste, and welcome. This is not a group trek. It is just you and the people you came with, and me beside you every day, from Kathmandu and back. We walk at the pace your body likes, stop for tea or a view whenever you want, and nobody is waiting for you at the top. In the mountains I want you to feel looked after, and free.
- The same guide all the way
- One person to ask, for the trail, the lodges, the weather and anything that goes wrong.
- Your pace, not a group's
- Slow is fine; we walk the way you feel good.
- A rest day when you need one
- If your body asks for a day, we take it.
- Down when the body says so
- If you feel unwell with the height, we go down, never up.
- Quiet places when we can
- Quieter lodges and quiet hours on the trail.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Just need a guide? $35 a day (for 1 to 5 people), on your own itinerary. Book me as your guide Rates and services
Along the way
The moments this route is known for.
- The north face of Annapurna I
- The way of the first ascent, 1950
- The deep gorge of the Miristi Khola
- Bamboo, forest and high pasture
- Nights in tents, far from other trekkers
- Hot springs at Tatopani on the way back
How the trek climbs
From the day-by-day itineraryFrom about 2,041 m at Narchyang to about 4,190 m in four walking days, with one slower day at Sandhi Kharka. That is a quick gain; if anyone feels unwell we stop or go down.
Is this walk for you?
An honest answer before you book anything.It suits you if…
- You have trekked before and like rough trails.
- You want a big mountain with no crowds.
- You are happy in a tent and with a small crew.
- Mountaineering history means something to you.
Think twice if…
- It is your first trek.
- You want lodges, showers and Wi-Fi.
- You do not like steep, narrow or rocky paths.
- You have heart or lung problems at altitude; please ask me first.
Not sure? Tell me how you usually walk, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The route as I walk it
This is how I usually walk it, slowly. It is an example, not a fixed package: we plan the days together, around you, the season and the weather.
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Day 1
Pokhara to Narchyang
Night 2,041 mBy road west to Beni and up the Kali Gandaki to Narchyang, the last part on a rough track. About 6 hours.
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Day 2
Narchyang to Chhote Pa
Night 2,455 mUp through fields, ridges and bamboo forest. About 6 hours of steady climbing.
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Day 3
Chhote Pa to Sandhi Kharka
Night 3,245 mBack into forest, over a suspension bridge and up to the pastures. About 6 hours.
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Day 4
A day to rest and climb slowly
Night 3,245 m Up to 3,600 mA short walk higher and back, to help the body adjust before base camp.
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Day 5
Sandhi Kharka to North Base Camp
Night 4,190 m Highest pointThrough thinning plants, over a small pass and across a boulder field to base camp under the north face. About 6 hours.
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Day 6
Back to Chhote Pa
Night 2,455 mA long, rocky descent with care on the footing. About 6 hours.
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Day 7
Chhote Pa to Narchyang, drive to Tatopani
Night 1,190 mDown to the road and a short drive to the hot springs of Tatopani. About 3 hours on foot, 2 hours by road.
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Day 8
Tatopani to Pokhara
Night 822 mBy road back to Pokhara. About 5 to 6 hours.
More about this walk
The trail in detail
The route
From Narchyang, a village at about 2,041 m on the east side of the Kali Gandaki in Myagdi, the trail climbs the valley of the Miristi Khola through bamboo and forest to Chhote Pa and the pastures of Sandhi Kharka. From there it crosses a small pass and a boulder field to the north base camp of Annapurna I, at about 4,190 m (some sources give more).
The first ascent
In 1950 the French expedition of Maurice Herzog searched for weeks for a way to Annapurna before finding the Miristi Khola. Herzog and Louis Lachenal reached the summit on 3 June 1950, the first ascent of an 8,000 m peak. Their return was terrible, with frostbite and injuries. Local people in Narchyang later opened the trail to the base camp for trekkers.
The ground and getting ready
Steep forest trail, narrow and rocky in places, a boulder field near base camp. No glacier walking.
In the months before, walk long hill days with a pack, and stairs.
People and places on the way
Narchyang and the villages below are mostly Magar and Thakali. Greet people with namaste and ask before photographing. Carry all rubbish down from the camps.
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before walking it.- No lodges above Narchyang: tents, a cook and porters are needed, and that costs more.
- Steep, narrow and rocky in places; hydropower works have left stones and dirt on parts of the lower trail.
- No phone signal for days.
- In the monsoon there are leeches, mud and landslides; in winter snow and avalanche danger near base camp.
The pace
How long we walk each day, and where we stop.- On foot each day
- 5 to 6
- Rest and acclimatisation days
- One slow day at Sandhi Kharka
Days you can add
- A second day at base camp
- A night at Tatopani's hot springs
- On to Jomsom by the Kali Gandaki
If you walk with a camera
The north face in the morning light from base camp; the gorge from the high trail.
A day on the trail
An ordinary walking day. Times shift a little with the season and the day's distance.- 06:30Tea and breakfastPorridge, eggs or chapati. Bags packed for the day.
- 07:30WalkingCool air, the clearest mountain views of the day.
- 10:00Tea stopA break in a village, water bottles refilled.
- 12:00LunchDal bhat or noodle soup in a lodge on the way.
- 14:30Arrive at the lodgeMost days end by mid-afternoon, before clouds build.
- 16:00Free timeWash, rest, wander the village, a short walk up.
- 18:30DinnerWarm dining room, tomorrow's plan, early night.
We start early every day: the trail is long and the weather turns in the afternoon.
When to walk it
April, and October to November.- ColdJAN
- ColdFEB
- GoodMAR
- BestAPR
- GoodMAY
- WetJUN
- WetJUL
- WetAUG
- WetSEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- ColdDEC
Quiet months This trail has company in every walking month; the start of each season is calmest.
- January: monsoon
- February: monsoon
- March: monsoon
- April: monsoon
- May: monsoon
- June: monsoon
- July: monsoon
- August: monsoon
- September: monsoon
- October: monsoon
- November: monsoon
- December: monsoon
Base camp is very cold at night in any season, and far below freezing in winter. Ask me before choosing March or May.
Good to know
The small practical things people ask me most.- Licensed guideSince April 2023 foreign trekkers in most of Nepal must walk with a licensed guide.
- MoneyNo cash machines on the trail. Carry rupees in small notes for lodges, homestays, showers and charging.
- PhoneSignal is patchy or absent in places. I carry a way to call for help where there is none; ask me.
- WaterRefill from lodge or village taps and treat it with tablets or a filter. No plastic bottles needed.
- InsuranceYour insurance must cover trekking to about 4,200 m and helicopter rescue.
- CrewI arrange the tents, cook and porters with you before the trek; you see every price first.
Full details in Packing list and Permits.
Practical
Permits and paperwork
Open zone: no restricted-area permit needed
- Region
- Annapurna Region
- Province
- Western Development Region
- Zone
- Dhaulagiri Zone
- District
- Myagdi
Official information: Department of Immigration, Nepal
What to pack
Everything a teahouse trek needs is in my packing list: Nepal Trekking Packing List: What to Bring (and What Not To) →
CHALLENGING GRADE TREKKING PACKING LIST
Safety on the trail
- Licensed & Trained Guide Your safety is the foundation of every trip I lead. I am licensed by the Government of Nepal as a trekking guide (licence no. 18550) and a tour guide (licence no. 4606), and trained in first aid, basic rescue and trekking-based search and rescue. I check your gear and the weather before every stage, so you can enjoy the trek with peace of mind. For groups larger than four, I bring in additional government-licensed guides I have worked with before.
- Health & First Aid Certified Wilderness First Responder: I hold up-to-date certifications in Wilderness First Aid and CPR, ensuring I am fully trained to handle medical emergencies, injuries, and illnesses in remote terrain. Proactive Health & Altitude Tracking: Your safety is my daily priority. I monitor your pulse, oxygen saturation (SpO2), and acclimatisation levels daily using a pulse oximeter to catch early signs of Altitude Sickness (AMS). Fully Stocked First Aid Kit: I carry a comprehensive medical kit on every trek, equipped with essential medications, wound dressings, and emergency response supplies tailored to the route. Established Emergency & Evacuation Protocols: I maintain clear protocols and direct lines of communication for medical evacuations, including swift coordination with helicopter rescue teams if severe conditions arise. Strict Hygiene & Safe Water Standards: I ensure clean, safe drinking water throughout the trail and verify strict hygiene practices during all meal breaks to protect you against waterborne illnesses. Personalised Care & Medical Attention: Before we step onto the trail, I review any health concerns or allergies you may have so I can cater to your needs and adapt our pace accordingly.
- Communication Satellite & Emergency Communication: I carry a reliable satellite messaging device (such as a Garmin inReach) to stay connected in remote areas with no cellular coverage, allowing for real-time location tracking and instant SOS capabilities. Daily Family & Loved One Updates: When signal or satellite access allows, I provide regular updates to your emergency contacts or loved ones so they always know you are safe and on schedule. Transparent Route & Weather Briefings: Before we set off each day, I conduct clear briefings on the upcoming terrain, expected weather conditions, trail milestones, and safety protocols. Open & Encouraging Dialogue: I foster an environment where you can freely express how you’re feeling—whether you're experiencing fatigue, discomfort, or symptoms of altitude—without hesitation or judgment. Direct Operations & Rescue Contact: I maintain continuous connectivity with ground support, local lodge networks, and emergency rescue services to coordinate logistics seamlessly if plans need to adjust.
- Route Experience Deep Local & Trail Knowledge: Having navigated these routes extensively across varying seasons, I know the terrain, trail conditions, hidden hazards, and optimal rest spots in intimate detail. Flexible & Adaptive Itineraries: I constantly evaluate trail status, weather patterns, and team energy levels, making smart, real-time adjustments to our daily pace or route to avoid risky conditions. Smart Pace & Acclimatisation Management: I set a steady, sustainable pace (bistarai, bistarai) designed specifically to promote proper altitude adaptation and prevent physical burnout. Vetted Rest Stops & Accommodation: I choose reliable, high-standard teahouses, campsites, and lodge networks along the route, ensuring safe, hygienic, and comfortable places to rest every night. Terrain & Environmental Hazard Navigation: From loose scree and river crossings to icy passes and rockfall zones, I guide you through technical and treacherous trail sections with hands-on support and proper technique.
- Daily Health Check Morning & Evening Health Checks: I conduct routine health check-ins every morning and evening to track how your body is adapting to the altitude, workload, and changing climate. Vital Signs & SpO2 Monitoring: Using a medical-grade pulse oximeter, I measure your blood oxygen levels (SpO2) and heart rate twice daily to spot early, subtle signs of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Lake Louise Scoring System: I utilize the standardized Lake Louise Score card to systematically assess symptoms like headache, fatigue, nausea, and sleep quality, taking the guesswork out of altitude safety. Hydration & Appetite Tracking: I monitor your daily fluid intake and meal consumption, ensuring you stay properly hydrated and sufficiently fueled for tough trekking days. Early Intervention & Action Plans: If any health metrics or symptoms dip, I take immediate, preventive action—whether that means adjusting our daily pace, adding a rest day, or initiating a controlled descent.
- Emergency Evacuation Direct Helicopter & Ground Coordination: In the event of severe illness or injury, I maintain direct contact with local helicopter rescue operators and ground transport services to arrange immediate, rapid evacuation. Insurance Verification & Claims Support: Before setting out, I review and verify your high-altitude travel insurance details so rescue protocols can be triggered instantly without bureaucratic delays. Rapid Medical Evacuation Protocols: I carry standard, high-altitude emergency protocols to prepare and stabilize you quickly, ensuring a swift transfer to the nearest medical facility or hospital in Kathmandu. Constant SOS Satellite Connectivity: Using my satellite messaging device, I can trigger a 24/7 global emergency SOS and send exact GPS coordinates to search-and-rescue teams, even in complete dead zones. 24/7 Ground Operations Backing: I work alongside an experienced city-based support team that coordinates hospital admissions, logistics, and communication with your insurance provider and loved ones while I manage the evacuation on-site.
For your budget
My guide fee for this walk is about $ 35 a day, the same for 1 to 5 people.
A porter, if you hire one: about the same as a guide's day rate. Permits, transport, rooms and meals are paid separately, at cost.
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Where your money goes
Every cost of this trek, who receives it, and nothing hidden.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide (me) | Rujan Neupane | My day rate × 8 days | One rate for 1 to 5 people |
| Annapurna Conservation Area permit | The conservation area (ACAP) | Official price | Paid at cost |
| Jeep Pokhara–Narchyang and Tatopani–Pokhara | The jeep owners | Agreed before the trek | Paid at cost |
| Tents, cook and kitchen gear | The crew and the hire shop | Agreed before the trek | Paid at cost |
| Porters to carry the camp | The porters | Their day rate | Paid to them |
| Food for the camp days | Bought in Pokhara or Beni | What it costs | Paid at cost |
| Lodges, homestays and meals | Families on the trail | What they charge | You pay them directly; I never add anything |
Trip documents
Made from this page, always up to date. Download and print, or keep them on your phone.
Walking gently
How we leave the trail as we found it.- Refill, don't buyPurified water in the villages instead of plastic bottles.
- Stay with familiesWe sleep and eat in locally owned lodges, so the money stays in the valley.
- Quiet respectWalk clockwise around stupas and prayer walls, and ask before taking photos of people.
- Carry it outWhatever we bring up, we carry down again.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- When I'd say noIf the season, your fitness or the weather make a trek unsafe, I'll tell you plainly and suggest something better.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the trekker wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you walk it
What I would read first, from my own guides and walks.Guides to read first
Frequently asked questions
How high is the base camp?
About 4,190 m in most sources; some give more.
Are there lodges?
Only at Narchyang. Above it we camp, with tents, a cook and porters.
Is it harder than Annapurna Base Camp?
Yes: rougher, steeper, no lodges and no crowds.
Do I need a permit?
Yes, the Annapurna Conservation Area permit.
Is there phone signal?
Not for most of the way.
When is best?
April, and October to November.
Reviews from trekkers who walked with me are published automatically, exactly as they wrote them. Reviews sent through the open form are checked for spam only.
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Plan it with me
Tell me how you'd like to walk it. I'll plan the rest around you.
Send your dates, group size and anything you'd like to change, whichever way suits you.
- +977 984-3808583
- Phone
- +977 984-3808583
Prefer to shape it yourself? Plan it step by step
More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.
Verified credentials
My licences and training papers. Open any file to see the original.
Guide Association Membership
Write to me about this trek
Enquiring about: Annapurna North Base Camp Trek: Herzog’s Way up the Miristi Khola — tell me your dates and group size and I'll write back myself, with what I know about your dates and the real costs.
How I grade my treks
Every trek I guide is rated one of 4 grades, based on altitude, daily walking time, terrain, and the experience it takes to enjoy it comfortably.