Permit Details
Two permits are needed: the Sagarmatha National Park entry permit and the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality permit.
The park permit is bought at the Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu or at the park entrance in Monjo. The municipality permit is bought in Lukla. Both are paid at the official price, and I arrange them with you through the registered trekking company I work with.
Carry your passport. Both permits are checked at Monjo and on the trail.
Thank you.
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Three high passes, one slow circle of the Khumbu
The Three Passes trek is the whole of the Khumbu in one long circle. Three high passes, Kongma La (5,535 m), Cho La (5,420 m) and Renjo La (5,360 m), join the Everest Base Camp trail to the Gokyo lakes and the quiet Bhote Koshi valley. It is a hard walk: long days above 5,000 m, rough moraine and a short glacier on Cho La. I walk it slowly, Kongma La first, with rest days in Namche, Dingboche and Chhukung, and I always keep a way round a pass if the snow or the weather says no.
Why I walk it this way
One moment from this trail stays with me. At Ama Dablam Base Camp I watched a man from the USA, around 65, walking with his wife. He was so happy. They had no fixed itinerary and nothing heavy to carry, and he was in no hurry at all. No fancy clothes, just a simple man with a good heart, enjoying the moment where he was.
On the way I always like to stop at Khumjung. It is my favourite village.
Many people come thinking they can finish this trek easily on fixed dates. That is not true. If you really want to enjoy walking in the mountains, rather than rushing and running, you need more time and a more flexible plan.
What I would tell a friend the night before: relax, and make up your mind to keep a few spare days to enjoy the trail. Trails are not a place to hurry, and not a place to join a big group or a big company. Trails are simple. You walk prepared, with a trusted friend, and with someone who has walked there before.
- Days
- 18 days
- Highest point
- 5,550 m
- Grade
- Challenging
- Best months
- Autumn (late Sep – Nov) and Spring (Mar – May)
Jump to
From the trail
The snow is disappearing. There are many more people now and it gets crowded, and the trail has become more business-minded.
A private trek
Your trek, walked at your own pace
Namaste, and welcome. This is not a group trek. It is just you and the people you came with, and me beside you every day, from Kathmandu and back. We walk at the pace your body likes, stop for tea or a view whenever you want, and nobody is waiting for you at the top. In the mountains I want you to feel looked after, and free.
- The same guide all the way
- One person to ask, for the trail, the lodges, the weather and anything that goes wrong.
- Your pace, not a group's
- Slow is fine; we walk the way you feel good.
- A rest day when you need one
- If your body asks for a day, we take it.
- Down when the body says so
- If you feel unwell with the height, we go down, never up.
- Quiet places when we can
- Quieter lodges and quiet hours on the trail.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Just need a guide? $35 a day (for 1 to 5 people), on your own itinerary. Book me as your guide Rates and services
Along the way
The moments this route is known for.
- Kongma La, 5,535 mthe highest and quietest of the three passes
- Everest Base Camp, and Kala Patthar at sunrise
- Cho Laa steep pass with a short glacier crossing
- The Gokyo lakes beside the Ngozumpa Glacier
- Gokyo RiEverest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu in one view
- Thame and the quiet Bhote Koshi valley on the way down
How the trek climbs
From the day-by-day itineraryFor walkers who know the Alps: from day 9 you sleep higher than the summit of Mont Blanc (about 4,800 m). That is why we climb slowly.
Rest days in Namche, Dingboche and Chhukung come before the first pass. After Kongma La you sleep above 4,700 m for a week.
Is this walk for you?
An honest answer before you book anything.It suits you if…
- You have walked several days in a row in the hills before, ideally above 4,000 m.
- You are happy to start in the dark on pass days and walk 8 hours on rough ground.
- You want the whole Khumbu, not only the Base Camp trail.
- You can give it 18 days and a spare day, and accept that the mountains set the plan.
Think twice if…
- This is your first trek, or your first time above 3,000 m. Everest Base Camp or the Gokyo valley alone are kinder first walks.
- Steep, loose descents hurt your knees, or a short walk on ice worries you.
- You have a fixed flight home the day after the trek.
- You have a heart or lung condition. Please ask your doctor before you write to me.
Not sure? Tell me how you usually walk, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The route as I walk it
This is how I usually walk it, slowly. It is an example, not a fixed package: we plan the days together, around you, the season and the weather.
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Day 1
Kathmandu to Lukla by air, walk to Phakding
Night 2,610 m Up to 2,860 mA short mountain flight, then 3 to 4 hours down to the Dudh Koshi river.
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Day 2
Phakding to Namche Bazaar
Night 3,440 mInto Sagarmatha National Park at Monjo, over the high bridges and up the long hill to Namche. About 6 hours.
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Day 3
Rest day in Namche Bazaar
Night 3,440 m Up to 3,880 mA slow walk above the town to see Everest, then back down to sleep.
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Day 4
Namche Bazaar to Tengboche
Night 3,867 mAlong the path to Kyangjuma, down to the river and up through the forest to the monastery. About 5 hours.
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Day 5
Tengboche to Dingboche
Night 4,410 mPast Pangboche into the open, stone-walled fields of the Imja valley. About 5 hours.
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Day 6
Rest day in Dingboche
Night 4,410 m Up to 5,083 mA slow climb up the hill above the village for Makalu, then back down to sleep.
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Day 7
Dingboche to Chhukung
Night 4,730 mA short day up the Imja valley to the foot of Island Peak and the Lhotse wall. About 3 hours.
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Day 8
Chhukung Ri, second night in Chhukung
Night 4,730 m Up to 5,550 m Highest pointAn early climb for Lhotse, Makalu and Ama Dablam, then rest before the first pass.
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Day 9
Chhukung to Lobuche over Kongma La
Night 4,940 m Up to 5,535 mThe highest pass. Start before dawn, climb past small frozen lakes, go steeply down and cross the Khumbu Glacier. About 8 to 9 hours.
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Day 10
Lobuche to Gorak Shep and Everest Base Camp
Night 5,164 m Up to 5,364 mAlong the moraine to Gorak Shep, then to Base Camp and back. About 7 hours.
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Day 11
Kala Patthar at sunrise, then to Dzongla
Night 4,830 m Up to 5,545 mSunrise over Everest from Kala Patthar, back down to Lobuche, then across to Dzongla. About 7 hours.
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Day 12
Dzongla to Thagnak over Cho La
Night 4,700 m Up to 5,420 mA steep climb on loose rock, a short glacier near the top, often icy, and a rocky way down. About 7 to 8 hours.
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Day 13
Thagnak to Gokyo
Night 4,790 mAcross the stones of the Ngozumpa Glacier to the third lake. About 2 to 3 hours.
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Day 14
Gokyo Ri, second night in Gokyo
Night 4,790 m Up to 5,357 mSunrise from Gokyo Ri, then a quiet afternoon by the lake.
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Day 15
Gokyo to Lungden over Renjo La
Night 4,380 m Up to 5,360 mAlong the lake, up stone steps to the last pass and its wide view back over Gokyo and Everest, then down to Lungden. About 7 to 8 hours.
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Day 16
Lungden to Namche Bazaar by Thame
Night 3,440 mDown the quiet Bhote Koshi valley past Marlung and Thame. About 6 to 7 hours.
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Day 17
Namche Bazaar to Lukla
Night 2,860 mBack along the Dudh Koshi to Lukla. About 6 hours.
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Day 18
Lukla to Kathmandu by air
Night 1,400 m Up to 2,860 mWhen the weather allows. Keep a spare day in Kathmandu before your flight home.
More about this walk
The trail in detail
The route
After the usual climb through Namche Bazaar, Tengboche and Dingboche, the route turns east to Chhukung. From there it crosses Kongma La to Lobuche, visits Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar, crosses Cho La into the Gokyo valley, and comes home over Renjo La and down the Bhote Koshi valley past Thame.
Why Kongma La first
I walk the passes in this order: Kongma La, Cho La, Renjo La. By the time you reach Kongma La, the highest of the three, you have slept a week at rising heights with three rest days. Cho La is also safer to climb from the Dzongla side than to come down it.
If a pass is closed
Every pass has a way round through the valleys. It adds a day or two. This is one reason I ask you to keep a spare day.
Permits and the guide rule
You need two permits: the Sagarmatha National Park permit and the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality permit. Read more in my guide to Nepal trekking permits and the licensed guide rule.
When to go
October and November have the clearest skies; April is good too. In winter snow can close Cho La and Renjo La. See the best time to trek in Nepal.
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Start & End Point: Fly into Lukla (2,860m) from Kathmandu/Ramechhap and finish back at Lukla.
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Core Route Circuit: The trail covers the ultimate circuit of the Khumbu region, traversing Kongma La (5,535m), Cho La (5,420m), and Renjo La (5,360m), along with iconic side trips to Everest Base Camp, Kala Patthar, and Gokyo Ri.
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Accommodation: Teahouses provide accommodation along the entire trail. Amenities become progressively simpler at higher elevations.
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Permits Required: Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit and Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit (both obtained locally in Monjo/Lukla).
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Luggage & Carry: Porters or yaks carry main duffel bags (limited to 10 kg per trekker), while trekkers carry a 30L–40L daypack containing extra layers, water, snacks, and valuables
The ground and getting ready
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Cardiovascular Fitness: Minimum 3–6 months of targeted cardio preparation (running, stair climbing, cycling, or rowing) to build aerobic capacity.
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Leg Strength & Endurance: Squats, lunges, step-ups, and weighted backpack hiking to prepare knees and legs for continuous 1,000m+ elevation gains and steep descents.
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Mental Toughness: Ability to handle freezing sub-zero night temperatures, basic living conditions, and sustained long days at high altitude with reduced oxygen levels.
People and places on the way
Sherpa villages, monasteries, prayer flags and mani walls all the way. Tengboche is the largest monastery in the Khumbu. Thame, on the way down, is the home village of many well-known Sherpa climbers and has an old monastery on the hill above it.
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before walking it.- It is hard: three passes above 5,300 m, each a long day, and a week without sleeping lower than 4,700 m.
- Cho La has a short glacier near the top. In cold months it is icy and you need microspikes. After fresh snow I may go round it.
- The stretch from Lobuche to Gorak Shep is crowded in October and April, and the lodges there are full and basic.
- Lukla flights stop in cloud and wind, sometimes for days. In the busy months they often leave from Ramechhap, a 4 to 5 hour drive from Kathmandu in the night.
- Lodges above 4,500 m are cold, with shared toilets. Hot showers and phone charging cost extra.
- Many people get a dry cough from the cold air by the second week. A buff over your mouth helps.
The pace
How long we walk each day, and where we stop.- On foot each day
- 5 to 7; 8 to 9 on the pass days
- Rest and acclimatisation days
- 3: Namche, Dingboche and Chhukung
Days you can add
- A spare day in Kathmandu for the Lukla flight
- A second rest day in Gokyo
- A night in Thame on the way down
If you walk with a camera
The best light is early: Kala Patthar and Gokyo Ri at sunrise, and the passes in the first hours. We start before dawn on those days.
A day on the trail
An ordinary walking day. Times shift a little with the season and the day's distance.- 06:30Tea and breakfastPorridge, eggs or chapati. Bags packed for the day.
- 07:30WalkingCool air, the clearest mountain views of the day.
- 10:00Tea stopA break in a village, water bottles refilled.
- 12:00LunchDal bhat or noodle soup in a lodge on the way.
- 14:30Arrive at the lodgeMost days end by mid-afternoon, before clouds build.
- 16:00Free timeWash, rest, wander the village, a short walk up.
- 18:30DinnerWarm dining room, tomorrow's plan, early night.
On pass days we leave at first light, often with head torches, to be over the top before the afternoon wind and cloud.
When to walk it
The passes decide the season: they need dry, clear days and little snow.- ColdJAN
- ColdFEB
- GoodMAR
- BestAPR
- GoodMAY
- WetJUN
- WetJUL
- WetAUG
- GoodSEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- ColdDEC
Quiet months March, September, December: few people on the trail.
- January: monsoon
- February: monsoon
- March: Quiet
- April: Busy
- May: Some
- June: monsoon
- July: monsoon
- August: monsoon
- September: Quiet
- October: Busy
- November: Some
- December: Quiet
In spring I start in early April, when the snow on Cho La has settled. In December the sky is very clear but the passes can be icy, so please ask me first.
Good to know
The small practical things people ask me most.- Licensed guideSince April 2023 foreign trekkers in most of Nepal must walk with a licensed guide.
- AcclimatisationThree rest days come before the first pass. If anyone feels unwell we stop, and we go down if it does not get better.
- MicrospikesLight microspikes for Cho La in the cold months. I tell you before the trek if you need them.
- MoneyThere are cash machines in Namche, but not higher. Carry rupees in small notes for lodges, showers and charging.
- Phone and internetPhone signal is patchy above Namche. Most lodges sell Wi-Fi cards, often slow.
- WaterRefill from lodge taps and treat it with tablets or a filter. No plastic bottles needed.
Full details in Packing list, Food & stay and Permits.
Practical
Permits and paperwork
Open zone: no restricted-area permit needed
- Region
- Everest Region
- Province
- Eastern Development Region
- Zone
- Sagarmatha Zone
- District
- Solukhumbu
Official information: Department of Immigration, Nepal
Food and places to stay
Food & Accommodation
Accommodation
Challenging Trekking Accommodation
Accommodation is provided in comfortable local tea houses throughout the trek. Rooms are simple but clean, usually offering twin-sharing beds with blankets.
- Twin-Sharing Rooms
- Hot Shower Where available ( Need to Pay Extra )
- Blanket
Food
Challenging Trekking Food
Nutritious meals are essential for maintaining energy at high altitude. Meals include a variety of local and international dishes such as:
- Dal Bhat
- Fried rice
- Noodles
- Pasta
- Soups
- Potatoes
- Tibetan bread
- Pancakes
- Eggs
- Tea and coffee
What to pack
Everything a teahouse trek needs is in my packing list: Nepal Trekking Packing List: What to Bring (and What Not To) →
CHALLENGING GRADE TREKKING PACKING LIST
Safety on the trail
- Licensed & Trained Guide Your safety is the foundation of every trip I lead. I am licensed by the Government of Nepal as a trekking guide (licence no. 18550) and a tour guide (licence no. 4606), and trained in first aid, basic rescue and trekking-based search and rescue. I check your gear and the weather before every stage, so you can enjoy the trek with peace of mind. For groups larger than four, I bring in additional government-licensed guides I have worked with before.
- Health & First Aid Certified Wilderness First Responder: I hold up-to-date certifications in Wilderness First Aid and CPR, ensuring I am fully trained to handle medical emergencies, injuries, and illnesses in remote terrain. Proactive Health & Altitude Tracking: Your safety is my daily priority. I monitor your pulse, oxygen saturation (SpO2), and acclimatisation levels daily using a pulse oximeter to catch early signs of Altitude Sickness (AMS). Fully Stocked First Aid Kit: I carry a comprehensive medical kit on every trek, equipped with essential medications, wound dressings, and emergency response supplies tailored to the route. Established Emergency & Evacuation Protocols: I maintain clear protocols and direct lines of communication for medical evacuations, including swift coordination with helicopter rescue teams if severe conditions arise. Strict Hygiene & Safe Water Standards: I ensure clean, safe drinking water throughout the trail and verify strict hygiene practices during all meal breaks to protect you against waterborne illnesses. Personalised Care & Medical Attention: Before we step onto the trail, I review any health concerns or allergies you may have so I can cater to your needs and adapt our pace accordingly.
- Communication Satellite & Emergency Communication: I carry a reliable satellite messaging device (such as a Garmin inReach) to stay connected in remote areas with no cellular coverage, allowing for real-time location tracking and instant SOS capabilities. Daily Family & Loved One Updates: When signal or satellite access allows, I provide regular updates to your emergency contacts or loved ones so they always know you are safe and on schedule. Transparent Route & Weather Briefings: Before we set off each day, I conduct clear briefings on the upcoming terrain, expected weather conditions, trail milestones, and safety protocols. Open & Encouraging Dialogue: I foster an environment where you can freely express how you’re feeling—whether you're experiencing fatigue, discomfort, or symptoms of altitude—without hesitation or judgment. Direct Operations & Rescue Contact: I maintain continuous connectivity with ground support, local lodge networks, and emergency rescue services to coordinate logistics seamlessly if plans need to adjust.
- Route Experience Deep Local & Trail Knowledge: Having navigated these routes extensively across varying seasons, I know the terrain, trail conditions, hidden hazards, and optimal rest spots in intimate detail. Flexible & Adaptive Itineraries: I constantly evaluate trail status, weather patterns, and team energy levels, making smart, real-time adjustments to our daily pace or route to avoid risky conditions. Smart Pace & Acclimatisation Management: I set a steady, sustainable pace (bistarai, bistarai) designed specifically to promote proper altitude adaptation and prevent physical burnout. Vetted Rest Stops & Accommodation: I choose reliable, high-standard teahouses, campsites, and lodge networks along the route, ensuring safe, hygienic, and comfortable places to rest every night. Terrain & Environmental Hazard Navigation: From loose scree and river crossings to icy passes and rockfall zones, I guide you through technical and treacherous trail sections with hands-on support and proper technique.
- Daily Health Check Morning & Evening Health Checks: I conduct routine health check-ins every morning and evening to track how your body is adapting to the altitude, workload, and changing climate. Vital Signs & SpO2 Monitoring: Using a medical-grade pulse oximeter, I measure your blood oxygen levels (SpO2) and heart rate twice daily to spot early, subtle signs of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Lake Louise Scoring System: I utilize the standardized Lake Louise Score card to systematically assess symptoms like headache, fatigue, nausea, and sleep quality, taking the guesswork out of altitude safety. Hydration & Appetite Tracking: I monitor your daily fluid intake and meal consumption, ensuring you stay properly hydrated and sufficiently fueled for tough trekking days. Early Intervention & Action Plans: If any health metrics or symptoms dip, I take immediate, preventive action—whether that means adjusting our daily pace, adding a rest day, or initiating a controlled descent.
- Emergency Evacuation Direct Helicopter & Ground Coordination: In the event of severe illness or injury, I maintain direct contact with local helicopter rescue operators and ground transport services to arrange immediate, rapid evacuation. Insurance Verification & Claims Support: Before setting out, I review and verify your high-altitude travel insurance details so rescue protocols can be triggered instantly without bureaucratic delays. Rapid Medical Evacuation Protocols: I carry standard, high-altitude emergency protocols to prepare and stabilize you quickly, ensuring a swift transfer to the nearest medical facility or hospital in Kathmandu. Constant SOS Satellite Connectivity: Using my satellite messaging device, I can trigger a 24/7 global emergency SOS and send exact GPS coordinates to search-and-rescue teams, even in complete dead zones. 24/7 Ground Operations Backing: I work alongside an experienced city-based support team that coordinates hospital admissions, logistics, and communication with your insurance provider and loved ones while I manage the evacuation on-site.
For your budget
My guide fee for this walk is about $ 35 a day, the same for 1 to 5 people.
A porter, if you hire one: about the same as a guide's day rate. Permits, transport, rooms and meals are paid separately, at cost.
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Where your money goes
Every cost of this trek, who receives it, and nothing hidden.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide (me) | Rujan Neupane | My day rate × 18 days | One rate for 1 to 5 people |
| Sagarmatha National Park permit | Sagarmatha National Park | NPR 3,000 | Official price, paid at cost |
| Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality permit | The local municipality | Official price | Paid at cost in Lukla |
| Lukla flights | The airline | The airline's fare | You pay the airline, at cost |
| Lodges and meals | Family lodges on the trail | What the lodge charges | You pay the lodges directly; I never add anything |
| Hot showers, charging, Wi-Fi | The lodges | A few hundred rupees each | Paid as you use them |
Trip documents
Made from this page, always up to date. Download and print, or keep them on your phone.
Walking gently
How we leave the trail as we found it.- Refill, don't buyPurified water in the villages instead of plastic bottles.
- Stay with familiesWe sleep and eat in locally owned lodges, so the money stays in the valley.
- Quiet respectWalk clockwise around stupas and prayer walls, and ask before taking photos of people.
- Carry it outWhatever we bring up, we carry down again.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- When I'd say noIf the season, your fitness or the weather make a trek unsafe, I'll tell you plainly and suggest something better.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the trekker wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you walk it
What I would read first, from my own guides and walks.Guides to read first
- Nepal’s high passes: which one is for you?3 min read
- The ways to Everest Base Camp: classic, by Gokyo, by road or over three passes2 min read
- Altitude Sickness in Nepal: A Trekking Guide’s Guide to Symptoms, Acclimatisation and Safety8 min read
- How to Choose Your Trek in Nepal: A Local Guide’s Honest Way7 min read
Stories from this trail
Places on the way
- Namche Bazaar3,440 m · Sherpa village and market town
- Phortse3,840 m · Village
- Tengboche Monastery3,867 m · Buddhist monastery on a ridge
- Dingboche4,410 m · Sherpa village and acclimatisation stop
- Nangkartshang5,083 m · Viewpoint on a ridge, a steep walk, no climbing
- Gorak Shep5,164 m · Lodge settlement, the last stop before Base Camp
Frequently asked questions
How hard is the Three Passes trek?
It is one of the hardest teahouse treks in Nepal: long days above 5,000 m, glacier crossings and steep, loose ground on Cho La. It suits people who have trekked before, ideally at altitude.
Which way round do you walk it?
Kongma La first, then Cho La, then Renjo La. You reach the highest pass after a week of slow climbing, and you climb Cho La on its steep side instead of going down it.
Can I walk only one or two of the passes?
Yes. Leaving out Kongma La saves a day, and Gokyo with Cho La and Everest Base Camp is a complete walk of its own. Write to me and we can plan it together.
What if a pass is closed by snow?
Every pass has a way round through the valleys. It adds a day or two, so please keep a spare day.
Do I need climbing experience?
No. In the cold months you need light microspikes for the short glacier on Cho La. I tell you before the trek.
What happens if someone feels the altitude?
We stop and rest. If it does not get better, we go down at once. Every night on this route has a lower place to go to.
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- +977 984-3808583
- Phone
- +977 984-3808583
Prefer to shape it yourself? Plan it step by step
More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.
Verified credentials
My licences and training papers. Open any file to see the original.
Guide Association Membership
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Enquiring about: Everest Three Passes Trek — tell me your dates and group size and I'll write back myself, with what I know about your dates and the real costs.
How I grade my treks
Every trek I guide is rated one of 4 grades, based on altitude, daily walking time, terrain, and the experience it takes to enjoy it comfortably.