Photo: Sergey Pashko, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons
Permit Details
Three permits or fees are needed, each at the official price: the Gaurishankar Conservation Area permit for the first days from Jiri, the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality fee, and the Sagarmatha National Park permit. I arrange them with you; carry your passport, they are checked on the trail.
Thank you.
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Walking in to Everest the way the first expeditions did, through the Solu hills
Before the Lukla airstrip, everyone walked to Everest from the road at Jiri. This is that old route: a week through the green Solu hills, over the Lamjura La at about 3,530 m, through Sherpa villages like Junbesi and down to the Dudh Kosi, before joining the Khumbu trail to Namche, Tengboche and Everest Base Camp. By the time we reach the high ground the body is used to walking and climbing. Quiet hills first, the great mountains after, and a flight home from Lukla.
- Days
- 21 days
- Highest point
- 5,545 m
- Grade
- Strenuous
- Best months
- Spring and Autumn
Jump to
A private trek
Your trek, walked at your own pace
Namaste, and welcome. This is not a group trek. It is just you and the people you came with, and me beside you every day, from Kathmandu and back. We walk at the pace your body likes, stop for tea or a view whenever you want, and nobody is waiting for you at the top. In the mountains I want you to feel looked after, and free.
- The same guide all the way
- One person to ask, for the trail, the lodges, the weather and anything that goes wrong.
- Your pace, not a group's
- Slow is fine; we walk the way you feel good.
- A rest day when you need one
- If your body asks for a day, we take it.
- Down when the body says so
- If you feel unwell with the height, we go down, never up.
- Quiet places when we can
- Quieter lodges and quiet hours on the trail.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Just need a guide? $35 a day (for 1 to 5 people), on your own itinerary. Book me as your guide Rates and services
Along the way
The moments this route is known for.
- The walk-in of the first Everest expeditions
- The Lamjura La, about 3,530 m, in rhododendron forest
- Junbesi and the Sherpa villages of Solu
- The Dudh Kosi valley and Namche Bazaar
- Tengboche monastery
- Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar
How the trek climbs
From the day-by-day itineraryFor walkers who know the Alps: from day 14 you sleep higher than the summit of Mont Blanc (about 4,800 m). That is why we climb slowly.
The first week stays below 3,600 m and makes you fit; rest days in Namche and Dingboche come before the high ground.
Is this walk for you?
An honest answer before you book anything.It suits you if…
- You have three weeks and want to walk all the way in.
- You want quiet hills and villages before the busy Khumbu trail.
- You can walk 6 to 8 hours a day, with long climbs and descents.
- You would rather not fly into Lukla.
Think twice if…
- You have less than three weeks: the classic route from Lukla is shorter.
- You dislike long up-and-down days.
- You want comfortable lodges all the way: the Solu lodges are simple.
- You have heart or lung problems at altitude; please ask me first.
Not sure? Tell me how you usually walk, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The route as I walk it
This is how I usually walk it, slowly. It is an example, not a fixed package: we plan the days together, around you, the season and the weather.
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Day 1
Drive to Shivalaya
Night 1,767 mEast by road through Jiri to Shivalaya. About 9 to 10 hours.
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Day 2
Shivalaya to Bhandar
Night 2,000 m Up to 2,700 mOver Deurali and down to the Sherpa village of Bhandar. About 5 to 6 hours.
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Day 3
Bhandar to Sete
Night 2,500 mDown to the Likhu Khola at Kinja, then a long climb to Sete. About 6 to 7 hours.
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Day 4
Sete to Junbesi
Night 2,675 m Up to 3,530 mOver the Lamjura La in rhododendron forest and down to Junbesi. About 7 to 8 hours.
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Day 5
Junbesi to Nunthala
Night 2,345 m Up to 3,071 mPast Ringmo and over the Taksindu La to Nunthala. About 6 to 7 hours.
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Day 6
Nunthala to Kharikhola
Night 2,194 mDown to the Dudh Kosi and up to Kharikhola. About 5 to 6 hours.
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Day 7
Kharikhola to Surke
Night 2,290 mThrough Bupsa and Paiya to Surke, below Lukla. About 6 to 7 hours.
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Day 8
Surke to Phakding
Night 2,610 mUp to join the Lukla trail at Chheplung and on to Phakding. About 4 hours.
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Day 9
Phakding to Namche Bazaar
Night 3,440 mInto Sagarmatha National Park and up the long hill to Namche. About 6 hours.
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Day 10
Rest day in Namche
Night 3,440 m Up to 3,880 mA slow walk up to Khumjung and the Everest View Hotel, back to Namche to sleep.
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Day 11
Namche to Tengboche
Night 3,860 mAlong the valley side and up to Tengboche monastery. About 5 to 6 hours.
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Day 12
Tengboche to Dingboche
Night 4,410 mPast Pangboche to Dingboche below Ama Dablam. About 5 hours.
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Day 13
Rest day in Dingboche
Night 4,410 m Up to 4,950 mA slow walk up Nangkar Tshang, back to Dingboche to sleep.
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Day 14
Dingboche to Lobuche
Night 4,910 mUp to Thukla and the memorials, then on to Lobuche. About 5 hours.
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Day 15
Lobuche to Gorak Shep and Base Camp
Night 5,164 m Up to 5,364 mTo Gorak Shep, then out to Everest Base Camp and back. About 7 to 8 hours.
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Day 16
Kala Patthar, then down to Pheriche
Night 4,240 m Up to 5,545 m Highest pointKala Patthar at dawn for the view of Everest, then down to Pheriche. About 7 to 8 hours.
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Day 17
Pheriche to Namche
Night 3,440 mDown past Tengboche to Namche. About 6 to 7 hours.
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Day 18
Namche to Lukla
Night 2,840 mDown the valley to Lukla. About 6 to 7 hours.
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Day 19
Fly to Kathmandu
Night 1,400 mThe mountain flight from Lukla (some seasons via Ramechhap and a drive).
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Day 20
Spare day
Night 1,400 mA day kept free for weather and flights.
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Day 21
Spare day in Kathmandu
Night 1,400 mA second day for delays, or for the city.
More about this walk
The trail in detail
The route
The old route to Everest starts at the end of the road east of Kathmandu. From Shivalaya it crosses the ridges of the Solu hills one after another: Deurali to Bhandar, down to the Likhu Khola and up to Sete, over the Lamjura La at about 3,530 m to Junbesi, over the Taksindu La to Nunthala, and down to the Dudh Kosi. At Chheplung, below Lukla, it joins the Khumbu trail to Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Dingboche, Lobuche and Gorak Shep for Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar.
The ground and getting ready
Long climbs and descents in the first week on good village trails, then the Khumbu trail above Namche, with moraine near Gorak Shep. No glaciers to cross.
In the months before, walk long hill days back to back with a pack.
People and places on the way
Sherpa villages of Solu with monasteries such as Thubten Chholing near Junbesi, Rai and Sherpa villages lower down, then the Khumbu: Namche, Tengboche monastery and the memorials at Thukla.
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before walking it.- Long: about three weeks, with big climbs and descents in the first week.
- The drive to Shivalaya is long and rough.
- Lodges in the Solu hills are simple; the Khumbu is busy in season.
- The flight out of Lukla depends on the weather.
- Above Namche it is high and cold; altitude needs respect.
The pace
How long we walk each day, and where we stop.- On foot each day
- 5 to 8
- Rest and acclimatisation days
- 2: Namche and Dingboche
Days you can add
- A day in Junbesi for Thubten Chholing monastery
- A third rest day at Dingboche
- Gokyo instead of Kala Patthar
If you walk with a camera
The Solu ridges at dawn; Kala Patthar at first light for Everest.
A day on the trail
An ordinary walking day. Times shift a little with the season and the day's distance.- 06:30Tea and breakfastPorridge, eggs or chapati. Bags packed for the day.
- 07:30WalkingCool air, the clearest mountain views of the day.
- 10:00Tea stopA break in a village, water bottles refilled.
- 12:00LunchDal bhat or noodle soup in a lodge on the way.
- 14:30Arrive at the lodgeMost days end by mid-afternoon, before clouds build.
- 16:00Free timeWash, rest, wander the village, a short walk up.
- 18:30DinnerWarm dining room, tomorrow's plan, early night.
In the first week we leave early to cross the ridges before the afternoon cloud.
When to walk it
Spring and autumn.- ColdJAN
- ColdFEB
- GoodMAR
- BestAPR
- GoodMAY
- WetJUN
- WetJUL
- WetAUG
- GoodSEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- GoodDEC
Quiet months March, May, September, December: few people on the trail.
- January: monsoon
- February: monsoon
- March: Quiet
- April: Some
- May: Quiet
- June: monsoon
- July: monsoon
- August: monsoon
- September: Quiet
- October: Some
- November: Some
- December: Quiet
The Solu hills are quiet all year; the Khumbu part is busiest in October and April.
Good to know
The small practical things people ask me most.- Licensed guideSince April 2023 foreign trekkers in most of Nepal must walk with a licensed guide.
- AcclimatisationThe first week makes you fit; rest days in Namche and Dingboche come before the high ground. If anyone feels unwell we stop, and we go down if it does not get better.
- MoneyNo cash machines on the trail. Carry rupees in small notes for lodges, homestays, showers and charging.
- PhoneSignal is patchy or absent in places. I carry a way to call for help where there is none; ask me.
- WaterRefill from lodge or village taps and treat it with tablets or a filter. No plastic bottles needed.
- FlightsLukla flights are often delayed by weather. Keep the spare days at the end.
Full details in Packing list and Permits.
Practical
Permits and paperwork
Open zone: no restricted-area permit needed
- Region
- Everest Region
- Province
- Eastern Development Region
Official information: Department of Immigration, Nepal
What to pack
Everything a teahouse trek needs is in my packing list: Nepal Trekking Packing List: What to Bring (and What Not To) →
High pass extras
Added to the main list on treks that cross a high pass.
STRENUOUS GRADE PACKING LIST
For extreme technical trekking, severe sub-zero environments, peaks above 5500m, and unassisted crossings.
Safety on the trail
- Licensed & Trained Guide Your safety is the foundation of every trip I lead. I am licensed by the Government of Nepal as a trekking guide (licence no. 18550) and a tour guide (licence no. 4606), and trained in first aid, basic rescue and trekking-based search and rescue. I check your gear and the weather before every stage, so you can enjoy the trek with peace of mind. For groups larger than four, I bring in additional government-licensed guides I have worked with before.
- Health & First Aid Certified Wilderness First Responder: I hold up-to-date certifications in Wilderness First Aid and CPR, ensuring I am fully trained to handle medical emergencies, injuries, and illnesses in remote terrain. Proactive Health & Altitude Tracking: Your safety is my daily priority. I monitor your pulse, oxygen saturation (SpO2), and acclimatisation levels daily using a pulse oximeter to catch early signs of Altitude Sickness (AMS). Fully Stocked First Aid Kit: I carry a comprehensive medical kit on every trek, equipped with essential medications, wound dressings, and emergency response supplies tailored to the route. Established Emergency & Evacuation Protocols: I maintain clear protocols and direct lines of communication for medical evacuations, including swift coordination with helicopter rescue teams if severe conditions arise. Strict Hygiene & Safe Water Standards: I ensure clean, safe drinking water throughout the trail and verify strict hygiene practices during all meal breaks to protect you against waterborne illnesses. Personalised Care & Medical Attention: Before we step onto the trail, I review any health concerns or allergies you may have so I can cater to your needs and adapt our pace accordingly.
- Communication Satellite & Emergency Communication: I carry a reliable satellite messaging device (such as a Garmin inReach) to stay connected in remote areas with no cellular coverage, allowing for real-time location tracking and instant SOS capabilities. Daily Family & Loved One Updates: When signal or satellite access allows, I provide regular updates to your emergency contacts or loved ones so they always know you are safe and on schedule. Transparent Route & Weather Briefings: Before we set off each day, I conduct clear briefings on the upcoming terrain, expected weather conditions, trail milestones, and safety protocols. Open & Encouraging Dialogue: I foster an environment where you can freely express how you’re feeling—whether you're experiencing fatigue, discomfort, or symptoms of altitude—without hesitation or judgment. Direct Operations & Rescue Contact: I maintain continuous connectivity with ground support, local lodge networks, and emergency rescue services to coordinate logistics seamlessly if plans need to adjust.
- Route Experience Deep Local & Trail Knowledge: Having navigated these routes extensively across varying seasons, I know the terrain, trail conditions, hidden hazards, and optimal rest spots in intimate detail. Flexible & Adaptive Itineraries: I constantly evaluate trail status, weather patterns, and team energy levels, making smart, real-time adjustments to our daily pace or route to avoid risky conditions. Smart Pace & Acclimatisation Management: I set a steady, sustainable pace (bistarai, bistarai) designed specifically to promote proper altitude adaptation and prevent physical burnout. Vetted Rest Stops & Accommodation: I choose reliable, high-standard teahouses, campsites, and lodge networks along the route, ensuring safe, hygienic, and comfortable places to rest every night. Terrain & Environmental Hazard Navigation: From loose scree and river crossings to icy passes and rockfall zones, I guide you through technical and treacherous trail sections with hands-on support and proper technique.
- Daily Health Check Morning & Evening Health Checks: I conduct routine health check-ins every morning and evening to track how your body is adapting to the altitude, workload, and changing climate. Vital Signs & SpO2 Monitoring: Using a medical-grade pulse oximeter, I measure your blood oxygen levels (SpO2) and heart rate twice daily to spot early, subtle signs of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Lake Louise Scoring System: I utilize the standardized Lake Louise Score card to systematically assess symptoms like headache, fatigue, nausea, and sleep quality, taking the guesswork out of altitude safety. Hydration & Appetite Tracking: I monitor your daily fluid intake and meal consumption, ensuring you stay properly hydrated and sufficiently fueled for tough trekking days. Early Intervention & Action Plans: If any health metrics or symptoms dip, I take immediate, preventive action—whether that means adjusting our daily pace, adding a rest day, or initiating a controlled descent.
- Emergency Evacuation Direct Helicopter & Ground Coordination: In the event of severe illness or injury, I maintain direct contact with local helicopter rescue operators and ground transport services to arrange immediate, rapid evacuation. Insurance Verification & Claims Support: Before setting out, I review and verify your high-altitude travel insurance details so rescue protocols can be triggered instantly without bureaucratic delays. Rapid Medical Evacuation Protocols: I carry standard, high-altitude emergency protocols to prepare and stabilize you quickly, ensuring a swift transfer to the nearest medical facility or hospital in Kathmandu. Constant SOS Satellite Connectivity: Using my satellite messaging device, I can trigger a 24/7 global emergency SOS and send exact GPS coordinates to search-and-rescue teams, even in complete dead zones. 24/7 Ground Operations Backing: I work alongside an experienced city-based support team that coordinates hospital admissions, logistics, and communication with your insurance provider and loved ones while I manage the evacuation on-site.
For your budget
My guide fee for this walk is about $ 35 a day, the same for 1 to 5 people.
A porter, if you hire one: about the same as a guide's day rate. Permits, transport, rooms and meals are paid separately, at cost.
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Where your money goes
Every cost of this trek, who receives it, and nothing hidden.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide (me) | Rujan Neupane | My day rate × 21 days | One rate for 1 to 5 people |
| Gaurishankar Conservation Area permit | The conservation area | Official price | Paid at cost |
| Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality fee | The municipality | Official price | Paid at cost |
| Sagarmatha National Park permit | The national park | Official price | Paid at cost |
| Jeep or bus to Shivalaya | The jeep owners or bus | Agreed before the trek | Paid at cost |
| Flight Lukla–Kathmandu | The airline | The airline's fare | You pay the airline, at cost |
| Porter, if you want one | The porter | His day rate | Paid to him |
| Lodges, homestays and meals | Families on the trail | What they charge | You pay them directly; I never add anything |
Trip documents
Made from this page, always up to date. Download and print, or keep them on your phone.
Walking gently
How we leave the trail as we found it.- Refill, don't buyPurified water in the villages instead of plastic bottles.
- Stay with familiesWe sleep and eat in locally owned lodges, so the money stays in the valley.
- Quiet respectWalk clockwise around stupas and prayer walls, and ask before taking photos of people.
- Carry it outWhatever we bring up, we carry down again.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- When I'd say noIf the season, your fitness or the weather make a trek unsafe, I'll tell you plainly and suggest something better.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the trekker wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you walk it
What I would read first, from my own guides and walks.Guides to read first
- Helicopter rescue in Nepal: how it works and what it costs3 min read
- Altitude day by day: how a trek in Nepal climbs safely4 min read
- How hard is the Everest Base Camp trek? Days, distance and height2 min read
- Altitude Sickness in Nepal: A Trekking Guide’s Guide to Symptoms, Acclimatisation and Safety8 min read
Frequently asked questions
Why walk from Jiri?
For the quiet Solu hills and villages, to arrive fit and used to the hills, and to avoid the flight into Lukla.
How long does it take?
About three weeks from Kathmandu, with spare days for the flight home.
Do we fly back?
Yes, from Lukla, usually; in some seasons the flight goes to Ramechhap and we drive on.
How hard is it?
Hard: long climbs in the first week and high ground at the end.
Can we start further on?
Yes, by jeep to Bhandar or beyond, to save a day or two.
Are there lodges?
Yes, all the way; simpler in the Solu hills.
Reviews from trekkers who walked with me are published automatically, exactly as they wrote them. Reviews sent through the open form are checked for spam only.
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Plan it with me
Tell me how you'd like to walk it. I'll plan the rest around you.
Send your dates, group size and anything you'd like to change, whichever way suits you.
- +977 984-3808583
- Phone
- +977 984-3808583
Prefer to shape it yourself? Plan it step by step
More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.
Verified credentials
My licences and training papers. Open any file to see the original.
Guide Association Membership
Write to me about this trek
Enquiring about: Jiri to Everest Base Camp Trek: the Pioneers’ Route — tell me your dates and group size and I'll write back myself, with what I know about your dates and the real costs.
How I grade my treks
Every trek I guide is rated one of 4 grades, based on altitude, daily walking time, terrain, and the experience it takes to enjoy it comfortably.