Photo: Vyacheslav Argenberg, CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
Permit Details
Two permits are needed: the Sagarmatha National Park entry permit and the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality permit.
The park permit is bought at the Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu or at the park entrance in Monjo. The municipality permit is bought in Lukla. Both are paid at the official price, and I arrange them with you.
Carry your passport. Both permits are checked at Monjo and on the trail.
Thank you.
Your review of Gokyo Lakes and Cho La to Everest Base Camp means a lot — I read every one myself.
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The turquoise lakes of Gokyo, one high pass, and on to the foot of Everest
This walk joins the two best valleys of the Khumbu with one high pass. It goes up the quieter Gokyo valley to the turquoise lakes and Gokyo Ri, then crosses the Ngozumpa glacier and the Cho La, about 5,420 m, into the Everest valley, for Everest Base Camp and the dawn from Kala Patthar. Going to Gokyo first gives the body time: by the pass you have slept at about 4,800 m for two nights. It is longer and harder than Everest Base Camp alone, and the pass day needs good weather, but you see far more, and come back by a different valley.
- Days
- 17 days
- Highest point
- 5,644 m
- Grade
- Challenging
- Best months
- Spring and Autumn
Jump to
A private trek
Your trek, walked at your own pace
Namaste, and welcome. This is not a group trek. It is just you and the people you came with, and me beside you every day, from Kathmandu and back. We walk at the pace your body likes, stop for tea or a view whenever you want, and nobody is waiting for you at the top. In the mountains I want you to feel looked after, and free.
- The same guide all the way
- One person to ask, for the trail, the lodges, the weather and anything that goes wrong.
- Your pace, not a group's
- Slow is fine; we walk the way you feel good.
- A rest day when you need one
- If your body asks for a day, we take it.
- Down when the body says so
- If you feel unwell with the height, we go down, never up.
- Quiet places when we can
- Quieter lodges and quiet hours on the trail.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Just need a guide? $35 a day (for 1 to 5 people), on your own itinerary. Book me as your guide Rates and services
Along the way
The moments this route is known for.
- The Gokyo lakes and the view from Gokyo Ri
- The Ngozumpa glacier, the longest in Nepal
- The Cho La, about 5,420 m
- Everest from Kala Patthar at dawn
- Everest Base Camp and the Khumbu icefall
- Namche and the Sherpa villages
How the trek climbs
From the day-by-day itineraryFor walkers who know the Alps: from day 10 you sleep higher than the summit of Mont Blanc (about 4,800 m). That is why we climb slowly.
The way up the Gokyo valley climbs slowly, with short days and a rest at Gokyo, so the body is used to the height before the Cho La, about 5,420 m. The highest point is Kala Patthar, about 5,644 m, and the highest night Gorak Shep, about 5,164 m.
Is this walk for you?
An honest answer before you book anything.It suits you if…
- You have trekked at altitude before, or are fit and patient.
- You want Everest Base Camp but also the quieter side of the Khumbu.
- You can walk 7 to 8 hours on rough ground at high altitude.
- You have 17 days and some spare time for weather.
Think twice if…
- It is your first trek at altitude: start with Gokyo or Everest Base Camp alone.
- You do not like steep, rocky ground and a little ice.
- You have only two weeks.
- You have heart or lung problems at altitude; please ask me first.
Not sure? Tell me how you usually walk, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The route as I walk it
This is how I usually walk it, slowly. It is an example, not a fixed package: we plan the days together, around you, the season and the weather.
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Day 1
Arrive in Kathmandu
Night 1,400 mA quiet evening; permits and gear checked.
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Day 2
Fly to Lukla, walk to Phakding
Night 2,610 mAbout 35 minutes by plane, then down along the Dudh Koshi. About 3 to 4 hours.
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Day 3
Phakding to Namche Bazaar
Night 3,440 mAcross the high bridges and up the long hill. About 6 hours.
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Day 4
A day to get used to the height
Night 3,440 m Up to 3,880 mUp to the Everest View Hotel or Khumjung and back down to sleep.
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Day 5
Namche to Dole
Night 4,110 mOver Mong La and down to the river, then up into the Gokyo valley. About 6 hours.
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Day 6
Dole to Machhermo
Night 4,470 mA short day up the valley, to rest the body. About 3 to 4 hours.
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Day 7
Machhermo to Gokyo
Night 4,790 mPast the first two lakes to Gokyo on the third. About 4 to 5 hours.
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Day 8
Gokyo Ri, and a rest at Gokyo
Night 4,790 m Up to 5,357 mUp Gokyo Ri before dawn for Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu, then the day by the lake. About 3 to 4 hours.
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Day 9
Gokyo to Dragnag
Night 4,700 mAcross the stones of the Ngozumpa glacier to Dragnag. About 2 to 3 hours.
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Day 10
Over the Cho La to Dzongla
Night 4,830 m Up to 5,420 mThe hardest day: up to the Cho La, about 5,420 m, over a small glacier on the far side, and down to Dzongla. About 7 to 8 hours.
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Day 11
Dzongla to Lobuche
Night 4,940 mA short day along the slope to Lobuche. About 3 hours.
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Day 12
To Gorak Shep and Everest Base Camp
Night 5,164 m Up to 5,364 mAlong the Khumbu glacier to Gorak Shep, then to Everest Base Camp and back. About 7 hours.
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Day 13
Kala Patthar at dawn, down to Pheriche
Night 4,240 m Up to 5,644 m Highest pointUp Kala Patthar before sunrise for Everest, then a long way down to Pheriche. About 7 to 8 hours.
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Day 14
Pheriche to Namche Bazaar
Night 3,440 mDown by Pangboche and Tengboche to Namche. About 6 to 7 hours.
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Day 15
Namche to Lukla
Night 2,860 mDown the long hill and along the river. About 6 to 7 hours.
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Day 16
Fly to Kathmandu
Night 1,400 mThe morning flight back.
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Day 17
A spare day in Kathmandu
Night 1,400 mFor a delayed flight, or a day of weather before the pass.
More about this walk
The trail in detail
The route
From Namche the trail goes over Mong La into the Gokyo valley, by Dole and Machhermo to Gokyo, a village on the third of the Gokyo lakes, at about 4,790 m. Gokyo Ri, about 5,357 m, looks over the lakes and the Ngozumpa glacier to Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu. From Gokyo the trail crosses the glacier to Dragnag and climbs to the Cho La, about 5,420 m, then down to Dzongla and on to Lobuche, on the Everest Base Camp trail. From Gorak Shep we walk to Everest Base Camp, and up Kala Patthar, about 5,644 m, at dawn. The way back goes down the main valley by Pheriche, Tengboche and Namche.
Why Gokyo first
Going up the Gokyo valley first means short days and two nights at about 4,800 m before the pass. Coming over the Cho La from the other side is also possible, but the climb from Dzongla is steeper and the body has had less time.
The ground and getting ready
A well-made trail to Namche, then rougher mountain paths. The Ngozumpa glacier is a walk over stones and moraine; the Cho La has loose rock on its west side and a small glacier on its east side.
In the months before, walk long hill days with a pack and climb a lot of stairs. Experience of a high trek is a real help.
People and places on the way
Sherpa villages, mani walls and the monasteries of Tengboche and Pangboche. The Gokyo lakes are holy to Hindus and Buddhists: do not wash or swim in them. Walk around stupas clockwise and ask before photographing people.
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before walking it.- The Cho La has a small glacier on its east side: icy in the morning, and in snow it may be closed.
- The pass day is long and hard, at high altitude.
- Gorak Shep and Lobuche are cold, crowded and expensive in season.
- Lukla flights are often delayed by weather.
- Altitude sickness is a real risk above 4,500 m; we go down at once if it comes.
The pace
How long we walk each day, and where we stop.- On foot each day
- 3 to 8
- Rest and acclimatisation days
- Two: Namche and Gokyo
Days you can add
- A second night at Gokyo for the fifth lake
- A spare day before the pass, for weather
- Chhukung and the view of Island Peak
If you walk with a camera
Gokyo Ri at dawn and Kala Patthar at dawn are the two great pictures; we plan the nights for both.
A day on the trail
An ordinary walking day. Times shift a little with the season and the day's distance.- 06:30Tea and breakfastPorridge, eggs or chapati. Bags packed for the day.
- 07:30WalkingCool air, the clearest mountain views of the day.
- 10:00Tea stopA break in a village, water bottles refilled.
- 12:00LunchDal bhat or noodle soup in a lodge on the way.
- 14:30Arrive at the lodgeMost days end by mid-afternoon, before clouds build.
- 16:00Free timeWash, rest, wander the village, a short walk up.
- 18:30DinnerWarm dining room, tomorrow's plan, early night.
On the pass day we start before dawn, often at 4 or 5: the snow is firm and the weather best in the morning.
When to walk it
April and May, or October and November.- ColdJAN
- ColdFEB
- GoodMAR
- BestAPR
- BestMAY
- WetJUN
- WetJUL
- WetAUG
- WetSEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- ColdDEC
Quiet months January, February, March, December: few people on the trail.
- January: Quiet
- February: Quiet
- March: Quiet
- April: Some
- May: Some
- June: monsoon
- July: monsoon
- August: monsoon
- September: monsoon
- October: Some
- November: Some
- December: Quiet
In winter and early spring the Cho La can be closed by snow. In the monsoon the views are hidden and flights to Lukla are often cancelled.
Good to know
The small practical things people ask me most.- Licensed guideSince April 2023 foreign trekkers in most of Nepal must walk with a licensed guide.
- MoneyThere are cash machines in Namche, but not higher. Carry rupees in small notes for lodges, showers, charging and donations.
- Phone and internetPhone signal is patchy above Namche. Most lodges sell Wi-Fi cards, often slow.
- WaterRefill from lodge or village taps and treat it with tablets or a filter. No plastic bottles needed.
- Lukla flightsWeather often delays them. Keep a spare day in Kathmandu at the end. In the busy months many flights leave from Ramechhap, about 4 hours by road from Kathmandu.
- MicrospikesLight crampons for the Cho La, in case of ice. We decide before we leave, from the latest reports.
Full details in Packing list and Permits.
Practical
Permits and paperwork
Open zone: no restricted-area permit needed
- Region
- Everest Region
- Province
- Eastern Development Region
- Zone
- Sagarmatha Zone
- District
- Solukhumbu
Official information: Department of Immigration, Nepal
What to pack
Everything a teahouse trek needs is in my packing list: Nepal Trekking Packing List: What to Bring (and What Not To) →
Challenging Trek Packing List
CHALLENGING GRADE TREKKING PACKING LIST
High pass extras
Added to the main list on treks that cross a high pass.
Safety on the trail
- Licensed & Trained Guide Your safety is the foundation of every trip I lead. I am licensed by the Government of Nepal as a trekking guide (licence no. 18550) and a tour guide (licence no. 4606), and trained in first aid, basic rescue and trekking-based search and rescue. I check your gear and the weather before every stage, so you can enjoy the trek with peace of mind. For groups larger than four, I bring in additional government-licensed guides I have worked with before.
- Health & First Aid Certified Wilderness First Responder: I hold up-to-date certifications in Wilderness First Aid and CPR, ensuring I am fully trained to handle medical emergencies, injuries, and illnesses in remote terrain. Proactive Health & Altitude Tracking: Your safety is my daily priority. I monitor your pulse, oxygen saturation (SpO2), and acclimatisation levels daily using a pulse oximeter to catch early signs of Altitude Sickness (AMS). Fully Stocked First Aid Kit: I carry a comprehensive medical kit on every trek, equipped with essential medications, wound dressings, and emergency response supplies tailored to the route. Established Emergency & Evacuation Protocols: I maintain clear protocols and direct lines of communication for medical evacuations, including swift coordination with helicopter rescue teams if severe conditions arise. Strict Hygiene & Safe Water Standards: I ensure clean, safe drinking water throughout the trail and verify strict hygiene practices during all meal breaks to protect you against waterborne illnesses. Personalised Care & Medical Attention: Before we step onto the trail, I review any health concerns or allergies you may have so I can cater to your needs and adapt our pace accordingly.
- Communication Satellite & Emergency Communication: I carry a reliable satellite messaging device (such as a Garmin inReach) to stay connected in remote areas with no cellular coverage, allowing for real-time location tracking and instant SOS capabilities. Daily Family & Loved One Updates: When signal or satellite access allows, I provide regular updates to your emergency contacts or loved ones so they always know you are safe and on schedule. Transparent Route & Weather Briefings: Before we set off each day, I conduct clear briefings on the upcoming terrain, expected weather conditions, trail milestones, and safety protocols. Open & Encouraging Dialogue: I foster an environment where you can freely express how you’re feeling—whether you're experiencing fatigue, discomfort, or symptoms of altitude—without hesitation or judgment. Direct Operations & Rescue Contact: I maintain continuous connectivity with ground support, local lodge networks, and emergency rescue services to coordinate logistics seamlessly if plans need to adjust.
- Route Experience Deep Local & Trail Knowledge: Having navigated these routes extensively across varying seasons, I know the terrain, trail conditions, hidden hazards, and optimal rest spots in intimate detail. Flexible & Adaptive Itineraries: I constantly evaluate trail status, weather patterns, and team energy levels, making smart, real-time adjustments to our daily pace or route to avoid risky conditions. Smart Pace & Acclimatisation Management: I set a steady, sustainable pace (bistarai, bistarai) designed specifically to promote proper altitude adaptation and prevent physical burnout. Vetted Rest Stops & Accommodation: I choose reliable, high-standard teahouses, campsites, and lodge networks along the route, ensuring safe, hygienic, and comfortable places to rest every night. Terrain & Environmental Hazard Navigation: From loose scree and river crossings to icy passes and rockfall zones, I guide you through technical and treacherous trail sections with hands-on support and proper technique.
- Daily Health Check Morning & Evening Health Checks: I conduct routine health check-ins every morning and evening to track how your body is adapting to the altitude, workload, and changing climate. Vital Signs & SpO2 Monitoring: Using a medical-grade pulse oximeter, I measure your blood oxygen levels (SpO2) and heart rate twice daily to spot early, subtle signs of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Lake Louise Scoring System: I utilize the standardized Lake Louise Score card to systematically assess symptoms like headache, fatigue, nausea, and sleep quality, taking the guesswork out of altitude safety. Hydration & Appetite Tracking: I monitor your daily fluid intake and meal consumption, ensuring you stay properly hydrated and sufficiently fueled for tough trekking days. Early Intervention & Action Plans: If any health metrics or symptoms dip, I take immediate, preventive action—whether that means adjusting our daily pace, adding a rest day, or initiating a controlled descent.
- Emergency Evacuation Direct Helicopter & Ground Coordination: In the event of severe illness or injury, I maintain direct contact with local helicopter rescue operators and ground transport services to arrange immediate, rapid evacuation. Insurance Verification & Claims Support: Before setting out, I review and verify your high-altitude travel insurance details so rescue protocols can be triggered instantly without bureaucratic delays. Rapid Medical Evacuation Protocols: I carry standard, high-altitude emergency protocols to prepare and stabilize you quickly, ensuring a swift transfer to the nearest medical facility or hospital in Kathmandu. Constant SOS Satellite Connectivity: Using my satellite messaging device, I can trigger a 24/7 global emergency SOS and send exact GPS coordinates to search-and-rescue teams, even in complete dead zones. 24/7 Ground Operations Backing: I work alongside an experienced city-based support team that coordinates hospital admissions, logistics, and communication with your insurance provider and loved ones while I manage the evacuation on-site.
For your budget
My guide fee for this walk is about $ 35 a day, the same for 1 to 5 people.
A porter, if you hire one: about the same as a guide's day rate. Permits, transport, rooms and meals are paid separately, at cost.
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Where your money goes
Every cost of this trek, who receives it, and nothing hidden.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide (me) | Rujan Neupane | My day rate × 17 days | One rate for 1 to 5 people |
| Sagarmatha National Park permit | Sagarmatha National Park | Official price | Paid at cost |
| Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality permit | The local municipality | Official price | Paid at cost in Lukla |
| Lukla flights | The airline | The airline's fare | You pay the airline, at cost |
| Microspikes for the pass, if needed | A shop in Kathmandu or Namche | Rent or buy | Paid at cost |
| Porter, if you want one | The porter | His day rate | Paid to him |
| Lodges and meals | Family lodges on the trail | What the lodge charges | You pay the lodges directly; I never add anything |
Trip documents
Made from this page, always up to date. Download and print, or keep them on your phone.
Walking gently
How we leave the trail as we found it.- Refill, don't buyPurified water in the villages instead of plastic bottles.
- Stay with familiesWe sleep and eat in locally owned lodges, so the money stays in the valley.
- Quiet respectWalk clockwise around stupas and prayer walls, and ask before taking photos of people.
- Carry it outWhatever we bring up, we carry down again.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- When I'd say noIf the season, your fitness or the weather make a trek unsafe, I'll tell you plainly and suggest something better.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the trekker wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you walk it
What I would read first, from my own guides and walks.Guides to read first
Frequently asked questions
How hard is the Cho La?
It is the hardest day: a long climb to about 5,420 m, loose rock, and a small glacier that can be icy. In good weather and with time to get used to the height, fit walkers manage it well.
Why go to Gokyo first?
The days up the Gokyo valley are short and the body gets used to the height before the pass.
Do I need crampons?
Often light microspikes are enough, and only on some days. We decide before we leave, from the latest reports.
Is this the Three Passes trek?
No: it crosses one pass, the Cho La. The Three Passes trek also crosses the Renjo La and the Kongma La.
What permits are needed?
The Sagarmatha National Park permit and the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality permit.
When is best?
April to May, and October to November.
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Plan it with me
Tell me how you'd like to walk it. I'll plan the rest around you.
Send your dates, group size and anything you'd like to change, whichever way suits you.
- +977 984-3808583
- Phone
- +977 984-3808583
Prefer to shape it yourself? Plan it step by step
More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.
Verified credentials
My licences and training papers. Open any file to see the original.
Guide Association Membership
Write to me about this trek
Enquiring about: Gokyo Lakes and Cho La to Everest Base Camp — tell me your dates and group size and I'll write back myself, with what I know about your dates and the real costs.
How I grade my treks
Every trek I guide is rated one of 4 grades, based on altitude, daily walking time, terrain, and the experience it takes to enjoy it comfortably.