The Karnali river in Bardiya

Western Nepal

Round trip Pokhara

Photo: Mandip Chaudhary (Tharu), CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

About

Ten days in the west, far from the usual route. Bardiya, the largest and wildest national park of the lowlands, where tigers live along the Karnali river and the forest is quiet; Lumbini, where the Buddha was born; Tansen, an old Newar hill town above the Kali Gandaki with the Rani Mahal palace below it; and Pokhara by its lake at the end. A flight out to the west, the road back east through the hills, and a flight home.

A private journey

Your holiday in Nepal, travelled your way

Namaste, and welcome to Nepal. A week or two here can feel like a race when you are one of thirty on a coach. With your own guide it becomes a journey: the same face every morning, a car that stops for tea in a village, a slow day when you need one, and someone who knows the country and wants you to feel at home in it. I would like you to go home feeling that Nepal was kind to you.

Bardiya without the crowds
The quietest of the big parks, and we give it three nights.
The road through the hills
Tansen and the Siddhartha Highway, a route most tours never take.
One flight out, one flight home
The longest distances are flown; the rest is a slow drive east.
Just you, and the people you came with
No strangers to wait for, no group to keep up with.
The same guide from the first day to the last
You never start again with someone new.
Rest days when you want them
We add one, or move the plan, whenever you need it.
The country between the places
Villages, rivers and roadside tea, not only the famous sights.
Someone to look after the details
Tickets, permits, rooms and roads are arranged for you, so your mind is free.

With warmth, Rujan Neupane

Along the way

What this day is known for.

  1. Bardiya National Parkthe best chance in Nepal to see a wild tiger, with a park nature guide
  2. The Karnali river, its gharials and, rarely, river dolphins
  3. Lumbinithe Maya Devi temple and the monasteries of many countries
  4. Tansen's old bazaar, Newar houses and Srinagar hill
  5. Rani Mahal, the palace on the Kali Gandaki
  6. Pokhara and the Annapurna range at the end
Jump to

Day by day, night by night

Where we go, how long on the road, and where you sleep each night.
Kathmandu1 NIGHT · BY PLANEBardiya (Thakurdwara)3 NIGHTSLumbini2 NIGHTSTansen2 NIGHTSPokhara1 NIGHT
DayThe dayOn the roadThe nightRoom + meals
Day 1 Day 1 · Arrive in KathmanduI meet you at the airport or your hotel.
  • Kathmandu
About 30 minutes from the airport Kathmandu Dinner
Day 2 Day 2 · Fly west to BardiyaA flight to Nepalgunj on the western plains, then the drive to Thakurdwara at the edge of Bardiya National Park.
  • Nepalgunj
  • Thakurdwara
About 1 hour by plane; 2.5 to 3 hours by car Thakurdwara, a lodge by the park Flight; car
Day 3 Day 3 · Bardiya National ParkA full day in the park with a licensed nature guide: a jeep drive through sal forest and grassland, and quiet hours by the Karnali where tigers come to drink.
  • Bardiya National Park
  • Karnali river
Thakurdwara Park entry; jeep and nature guide at their prices
Day 4 Day 4 · Bardiya, slowlyA walk in the buffer zone, a Tharu village, or a float on the Karnali; an afternoon of rest.
  • Bardiya National Park
  • Tharu village
Thakurdwara Nature guide; boat at their price
Day 5 Day 5 · East to LumbiniThe long road east along the plains to Lumbini.
  • Thakurdwara
  • Lumbini
6 to 7 hours by car Lumbini Car
Day 6 Day 6 · LumbiniThe sacred garden, the Maya Devi temple and the Ashoka pillar in the morning; the monasteries by bicycle in the afternoon.
  • Lumbini
  • Maya Devi Temple
Bicycle or short rides Lumbini Lumbini entry
Day 7 Day 7 · Up to TansenNorth into the hills on the Siddhartha Highway to Tansen, and an evening walk in the old bazaar.
  • Lumbini
  • Tansen
About 3 hours by car Tansen Car
Day 8 Day 8 · Tansen and Rani MahalSunrise from Srinagar hill, the Bhimsen and Amar Narayan temples, the dhaka weavers, and a walk down to Rani Mahal on the Kali Gandaki.
  • Srinagar hill
  • Tansen
  • Rani Mahal
On foot; about 2 hours down to Rani Mahal and a car back Tansen Car back from Rani Mahal
Day 9 Day 9 · To PokharaNorth along the Siddhartha Highway through the hills to Pokhara, and an evening by the lake.
  • Tansen
  • Pokhara
4 to 5 hours by car Pokhara Car
Day 10 Day 10 · Fly to KathmanduSunrise from Sarangkot if you like, then the short flight back to Kathmandu.
  • Sarangkot
  • Pokhara
  • Kathmandu
25 minutes by plane Flight
Lodging and mealsAt actual cost, per night, as the lodges charge. Not part of the guide fee; nothing added.
Change the loopAdd a night, drop a stop, end somewhere else: tell me, and I re-plan it with you.
The paceEasy. Long days in the park by jeep or on foot with rests; road days of 3 to 7 hours.

Is this tour for you?

Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.
WildlifeYou want a real chance of a tiger and quiet forest.
CultureYou like old towns and history as much as animals.
ComfortSimple lodges at Bardiya and Tansen.
WalkingShort walks; park walks only with the nature guide.

Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me

The honest downsides

What I'd want to know before booking.
  • A tiger is never certain, even in Bardiya.
  • The road from Bardiya to Lumbini is long and hot.
  • Tansen's hotels are simple.
  • The plains are very hot from April to June; Bardiya's park is partly closed in the monsoon.

Photos from this tour

More about this tour

Best time to go

Best from October to April; February to April for tigers, when the grass is cut.
  1. GoodJAN
  2. BestFEB
  3. BestMAR
  4. GoodAPR
  5. HazyMAY
  6. RainJUN
  7. RainJUL
  8. RainAUG
  9. HazySEP
  10. BestOCT
  11. BestNOV
  12. GoodDEC
Best: clear and mild Good: cool mornings or some haze Warm, hazy and dusty Monsoon: afternoon rain

In December and January the lowlands are often foggy and cold in the morning; from April to early June they are very hot. In the monsoon roads are slower and landslides can close them for hours.

Time of day

Dawn and duskThe Karnali river in Bardiya.
Early morningLumbini's sacred garden.
SunriseSrinagar hill above Tansen.

Festivals worth planning for

Maghe SankrantiMid-January: the great Tharu festival in the west.
Buddha JayantiApril or May: pilgrims in Lumbini.

Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.

Before you go

The small practical things.
VisaMost visitors get a visa on arrival at Kathmandu airport; check the rules for your passport before you fly.
LayersWarm layers for early mornings and evenings, light clothes for the lowlands.
ShoesComfortable walking shoes; sandals for the hotel.
CashNepali rupees in small notes for tea, tips, tickets and donations; cards work only in larger hotels.
ColoursWear greens and browns in the park, not white or bright colours.

Visiting with respect

These are living places of worship, not museums.
  • Walk around stupas, monasteries and temples clockwise.
  • Ask before photographing people at prayer, or inside temples; some do not allow it.
  • Take off your shoes where others do, and dress with shoulders and knees covered at holy places.
  • In the parks, keep quiet and keep your distance from animals; follow the nature guide.

Staying away: 9 nights

You pay me only my guide fee. Rooms and meals are paid at what they actually cost, with nothing added by me.
LodgingPaid at cost, as the lodge charges
MealsPaid at cost, where we eat

Where your money goes

Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.
WhatWho receives itAmountNote
Guide feeRujan NeupaneMy day rate × 10 days, plus my overnight allowance × 8 nights away from KathmanduFor your whole private group
Car and driverThe driver or car companyAgreed before the tourPaid at cost
Flights Kathmandu–Nepalgunj, Pokhara–KathmanduThe airlinesTheir pricesPaid at cost
Jeep and nature guide in BardiyaThe park's guidesTheir pricePaid to them
Entry tickets and park feesPaid at the gateOfficial priceSee Entrance fees
Rooms and mealsThe hotels, lodges and homestaysWhat they chargeYou pay them directly, or I book at their price

I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.

Photo notes

From a guide who is also a photographer.
BardiyaA long lens; the river at dawn.
TansenThe bazaar's carved windows.
Rani MahalThe palace on the river in the afternoon light.

The places in detail

The history and stories behind what you will see.

The far side of Nepal

The west of Nepal sees few visitors. This route starts with Bardiya, the largest national park of the lowlands, then follows the plains east to Lumbini and climbs into the hills to Tansen before Pokhara.

Bardiya

Bardiya National Park protects sal forest, grassland and the banks of the Karnali river. It is quieter than Chitwan and known for its tigers; visitors enter with the park’s licensed nature guides.

Tansen and Rani Mahal

Tansen is an old Newar town on a ridge in Palpa. Below it, on the Kali Gandaki, stands Rani Mahal, a palace built in the 1890s by a Rana general in memory of his wife.

Lumbini is a World Heritage Site: see UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Nepal. Entry tickets are at the official price: see entrance fees in Nepal.

My promises

Written down, so you can hold me to them.
  • No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
  • Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
  • Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
  • Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.

Frequently asked questions

Will we see a tiger?

Maybe. Bardiya gives the best chance in Nepal, but tigers are shy and never certain.

Why fly to Nepalgunj?

By road Bardiya is 12 to 14 hours from Kathmandu. The flight takes about an hour.

Is the guide fee for each person?

No. One rate for your whole private group of 1 to 5 people.

Can we add Chitwan?

Yes, between Lumbini and Pokhara, as two more days.

Can you book everything?

If you want, at their own price, with every price sent by email first.

Is it safe to walk in the park?

Only with the park's licensed nature guides, who know the animals and the rules.

Reviews from guests who toured with me are published automatically, exactly as they wrote them. Reviews sent through the open form are checked for spam only.

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Plan it with me

Tell me how you'd like to spend the day. I'll plan the rest around you.

Rujan NeupaneTrekking & Tour Guide · Kathmandu

Send your date, group size and anything you'd like to see or skip, whichever way suits you.

Know your date already? Book me as your guide for this tour

More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.

Verified credentials

My licences and training papers. Open any file to see the original.

Guide Association Membership

Some information on this page comes from Department of Immigration, Nepal · Nepal Tourism Board · UNESCO: Lumbini, the Birthplace of the Lord Buddha.

Written 13 October 2026