Photo: Mandip Chaudhary (Tharu), CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
About
Ten days in the west, far from the usual route. Bardiya, the largest and wildest national park of the lowlands, where tigers live along the Karnali river and the forest is quiet; Lumbini, where the Buddha was born; Tansen, an old Newar hill town above the Kali Gandaki with the Rani Mahal palace below it; and Pokhara by its lake at the end. A flight out to the west, the road back east through the hills, and a flight home.
A private journey
Your holiday in Nepal, travelled your way
Namaste, and welcome to Nepal. A week or two here can feel like a race when you are one of thirty on a coach. With your own guide it becomes a journey: the same face every morning, a car that stops for tea in a village, a slow day when you need one, and someone who knows the country and wants you to feel at home in it. I would like you to go home feeling that Nepal was kind to you.
- Bardiya without the crowds
- The quietest of the big parks, and we give it three nights.
- The road through the hills
- Tansen and the Siddhartha Highway, a route most tours never take.
- One flight out, one flight home
- The longest distances are flown; the rest is a slow drive east.
- Just you, and the people you came with
- No strangers to wait for, no group to keep up with.
- The same guide from the first day to the last
- You never start again with someone new.
- Rest days when you want them
- We add one, or move the plan, whenever you need it.
- The country between the places
- Villages, rivers and roadside tea, not only the famous sights.
- Someone to look after the details
- Tickets, permits, rooms and roads are arranged for you, so your mind is free.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Along the way
What this day is known for.
- Bardiya National Parkthe best chance in Nepal to see a wild tiger, with a park nature guide
- The Karnali river, its gharials and, rarely, river dolphins
- Lumbinithe Maya Devi temple and the monasteries of many countries
- Tansen's old bazaar, Newar houses and Srinagar hill
- Rani Mahal, the palace on the Kali Gandaki
- Pokhara and the Annapurna range at the end
Day by day, night by night
Where we go, how long on the road, and where you sleep each night.| Day | The day | On the road | The night | Room + meals |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Day 1 · Arrive in KathmanduI meet you at the airport or your hotel.
|
About 30 minutes from the airport | Kathmandu | Dinner |
| Day 2 | Day 2 · Fly west to BardiyaA flight to Nepalgunj on the western plains, then the drive to Thakurdwara at the edge of Bardiya National Park.
|
About 1 hour by plane; 2.5 to 3 hours by car | Thakurdwara, a lodge by the park | Flight; car |
| Day 3 | Day 3 · Bardiya National ParkA full day in the park with a licensed nature guide: a jeep drive through sal forest and grassland, and quiet hours by the Karnali where tigers come to drink.
|
Thakurdwara | Park entry; jeep and nature guide at their prices | |
| Day 4 | Day 4 · Bardiya, slowlyA walk in the buffer zone, a Tharu village, or a float on the Karnali; an afternoon of rest.
|
Thakurdwara | Nature guide; boat at their price | |
| Day 5 | Day 5 · East to LumbiniThe long road east along the plains to Lumbini.
|
6 to 7 hours by car | Lumbini | Car |
| Day 6 | Day 6 · LumbiniThe sacred garden, the Maya Devi temple and the Ashoka pillar in the morning; the monasteries by bicycle in the afternoon.
|
Bicycle or short rides | Lumbini | Lumbini entry |
| Day 7 | Day 7 · Up to TansenNorth into the hills on the Siddhartha Highway to Tansen, and an evening walk in the old bazaar.
|
About 3 hours by car | Tansen | Car |
| Day 8 | Day 8 · Tansen and Rani MahalSunrise from Srinagar hill, the Bhimsen and Amar Narayan temples, the dhaka weavers, and a walk down to Rani Mahal on the Kali Gandaki.
|
On foot; about 2 hours down to Rani Mahal and a car back | Tansen | Car back from Rani Mahal |
| Day 9 | Day 9 · To PokharaNorth along the Siddhartha Highway through the hills to Pokhara, and an evening by the lake.
|
4 to 5 hours by car | Pokhara | Car |
| Day 10 | Day 10 · Fly to KathmanduSunrise from Sarangkot if you like, then the short flight back to Kathmandu.
|
25 minutes by plane | Flight |
Is this tour for you?
Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before booking.- A tiger is never certain, even in Bardiya.
- The road from Bardiya to Lumbini is long and hot.
- Tansen's hotels are simple.
- The plains are very hot from April to June; Bardiya's park is partly closed in the monsoon.
More about this tour
Best time to go
Best from October to April; February to April for tigers, when the grass is cut.- GoodJAN
- BestFEB
- BestMAR
- GoodAPR
- HazyMAY
- RainJUN
- RainJUL
- RainAUG
- HazySEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- GoodDEC
In December and January the lowlands are often foggy and cold in the morning; from April to early June they are very hot. In the monsoon roads are slower and landslides can close them for hours.
Time of day
Festivals worth planning for
Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.
Before you go
The small practical things.Visiting with respect
These are living places of worship, not museums.- Walk around stupas, monasteries and temples clockwise.
- Ask before photographing people at prayer, or inside temples; some do not allow it.
- Take off your shoes where others do, and dress with shoulders and knees covered at holy places.
- In the parks, keep quiet and keep your distance from animals; follow the nature guide.
Staying away: 9 nights
You pay me only my guide fee. Rooms and meals are paid at what they actually cost, with nothing added by me.Where your money goes
Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide fee | Rujan Neupane | My day rate × 10 days, plus my overnight allowance × 8 nights away from Kathmandu | For your whole private group |
| Car and driver | The driver or car company | Agreed before the tour | Paid at cost |
| Flights Kathmandu–Nepalgunj, Pokhara–Kathmandu | The airlines | Their prices | Paid at cost |
| Jeep and nature guide in Bardiya | The park's guides | Their price | Paid to them |
| Entry tickets and park fees | Paid at the gate | Official price | See Entrance fees |
| Rooms and meals | The hotels, lodges and homestays | What they charge | You pay them directly, or I book at their price |
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Photo notes
From a guide who is also a photographer.The places in detail
The history and stories behind what you will see.The far side of Nepal
The west of Nepal sees few visitors. This route starts with Bardiya, the largest national park of the lowlands, then follows the plains east to Lumbini and climbs into the hills to Tansen before Pokhara.
Bardiya
Bardiya National Park protects sal forest, grassland and the banks of the Karnali river. It is quieter than Chitwan and known for its tigers; visitors enter with the park’s licensed nature guides.
Tansen and Rani Mahal
Tansen is an old Newar town on a ridge in Palpa. Below it, on the Kali Gandaki, stands Rani Mahal, a palace built in the 1890s by a Rana general in memory of his wife.
Lumbini is a World Heritage Site: see UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Nepal. Entry tickets are at the official price: see entrance fees in Nepal.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you go
What I would read first, from my own guides and tours.Guides to read first
- Nepal Trekking Etiquette: A Local Guide’s Guide to Culture and Respect on the Trail12 min read
- Festivals in Nepal and Trekking: Dashain, Tihar and the Trekking Calendar7 min read
- Upper Mustang Trek Guide: Tibet Without Leaving Nepal7 min read
- Lumbini: a quiet visit to the birthplace of the Buddha3 min read
Frequently asked questions
Will we see a tiger?
Maybe. Bardiya gives the best chance in Nepal, but tigers are shy and never certain.
Why fly to Nepalgunj?
By road Bardiya is 12 to 14 hours from Kathmandu. The flight takes about an hour.
Is the guide fee for each person?
No. One rate for your whole private group of 1 to 5 people.
Can we add Chitwan?
Yes, between Lumbini and Pokhara, as two more days.
Can you book everything?
If you want, at their own price, with every price sent by email first.
Is it safe to walk in the park?
Only with the park's licensed nature guides, who know the animals and the rules.
Reviews from guests who toured with me are published automatically, exactly as they wrote them. Reviews sent through the open form are checked for spam only.
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- +977 984-3808583
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- +977 984-3808583
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More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.
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