Lumbini: a quiet visit to the birthplace of the Buddha

I’m Rujan, a licensed trekking guide living in Kathmandu. Lumbini, in the lowlands of southern Nepal, is where Siddhartha Gautama, the Buddha, was born. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a place of pilgrimage for Buddhists from all over the world, and also a calm, open place that anyone can walk in. Here is how to visit it slowly.

The Sacred Garden

At the heart of Lumbini is the Sacred Garden. The Maya Devi Temple stands over the place where, by tradition, the Buddha was born; inside, under a walkway, are the ruins of older temples and a marker stone. Beside it is the pillar raised by the Indian emperor Ashoka when he came on pilgrimage in the 3rd century BCE, with an inscription that names this place as the Buddha’s birthplace. In front lies the sacred pond, and a great old tree hung with prayer flags, where pilgrims sit and chant.

The monastic zone

North of the garden, along a long canal, Buddhist countries and communities have built monasteries and temples, each in its own style: Thai, Myanmar, Chinese, Vietnamese, German, Korean and more. The zone is large, so go by bicycle or rickshaw, and choose a few rather than all of them. Most welcome quiet visitors during the day.

A slow day

• Early morning: the Sacred Garden as the monks and pilgrims arrive, before the heat and the groups.
• Late morning: by bicycle through the monastic zone.
• Midday: rest; the plains are hot.
• Late afternoon: back to the garden, or to the peace pagoda at the northern end, as the light turns soft.

Getting there

Fly from Kathmandu to Bhairahawa (Siddharthanagar), then about 30 to 45 minutes by road. By road from Kathmandu or Pokhara it is a long day. Lumbini fits well with Chitwan, a few hours to the east.

When to go

October to March is pleasant; December and January mornings are often foggy. From April to June it is very hot. Buddha Jayanti, the Buddha’s birthday at the full moon of April or May, brings many pilgrims and ceremonies.

Respect

Dress with shoulders and knees covered, take off your shoes where others do, walk around stupas clockwise, and keep your voice low in the garden. Ask before photographing monks or people at prayer. The entry ticket for the Sacred Garden is at the official price: see entrance fees in Nepal.

See also UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Nepal, and visiting a monastery respectfully.