Photo: Aditya Pal, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
About
A different Nepal, on the warm plains near the Indian border. Janakpur is the city of Sita, honoured in the Ramayana as her birthplace, and its white Janaki Mandir is one of the most beautiful temples in the country. Around it lie sacred ponds, old shrines and the villages of Mithila, where women paint bright stories of gods, birds and fish on walls and paper. Three calm days of temples, ponds at dusk, painting and Maithili food, far from the mountains and the trekking crowds.
A private journey
Your holiday in Nepal, travelled your way
Namaste, and welcome to Nepal. A week or two here can feel like a race when you are one of thirty on a coach. With your own guide it becomes a journey: the same face every morning, a car that stops for tea in a village, a slow day when you need one, and someone who knows the country and wants you to feel at home in it. I would like you to go home feeling that Nepal was kind to you.
- Janakpur at its own pace
- Temples, ponds and Mithila painting, with time to watch the evening prayers at Janaki Mandir.
- Meet the painters slowly
- We sit with the Mithila artists as long as you like, with no pressure to buy.
- Just you, and the people you came with
- No strangers to wait for, no group to keep up with.
- The same guide from the first day to the last
- You never start again with someone new.
- Rest days when you want them
- We add one, or move the plan, whenever you need it.
- The country between the places
- Villages, rivers and roadside tea, not only the famous sights.
- Someone to look after the details
- Tickets, permits, rooms and roads are arranged for you, so your mind is free.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Along the way
What this day is known for.
- Janaki Mandir, the white temple of Sita, by day and lit at night
- Mithila painting, made by the women of the villages
- The sacred ponds of Janakpur at dusk, with evening prayers
- Ram Mandir and the small shrines of the old city
- Maithili foodfish curry, sweets and fresh curd
- Village lanes and fields of the Terai plains
Day by day, night by night
Where we go, how long on the road, and where you sleep each night.| Day | The day | On the road | The night | Room + meals |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Kathmandu to Janakpur, evening at the templeA short flight south over the hills to the plains, or a long day by road. In the evening, Janaki Mandir as the lamps are lit and the prayers begin.
|
About 30 minutes by air, or a long day by road | Janakpur, a simple hotel near the old city | Flight or transport; dinner |
| Day 2 | Ponds, shrines and Mithila paintingA slow morning around Ram Mandir and the sacred ponds, by cycle rickshaw and on foot. In the afternoon, a visit to the women who paint Mithila art, and back to the ponds for the evening prayers.
|
Cycle rickshaw in the city | Janakpur | Rickshaws; anything you buy from the painters |
| Day 3 | A village morning, back to KathmanduIf you like, an early walk in a nearby Maithili village and its fields, then the flight or drive home.
|
About 30 minutes by air | Flight or transport |
Is this tour for you?
Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before booking.- It is hot from April to September, very hot before the monsoon.
- The city is busy and noisy around the temple, with traffic and loudspeakers.
- Winter mornings can be foggy and cold, and fog can delay flights.
- Hotels are simple; there is no luxury here.
More about this tour
Best time to go
October to March, when the plains are pleasant.- GoodJAN
- BestFEB
- BestMAR
- HazyAPR
- HazyMAY
- RainJUN
- RainJUL
- RainAUG
- RainSEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- GoodDEC
In December and January the mornings are often foggy and cold on the plains; the afternoons are mild and sunny.
Time of day
Festivals worth planning for
Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.
Before you go
The small practical things.Visiting with respect
These are living places of worship, not museums.- Remove your shoes before entering temples, and leather goods where asked.
- Ask before photographing people at prayer or bathing.
- Buy paintings from the women who made them, at their price.
Staying away: 2 nights
You pay me only my guide fee. Rooms and meals are paid at what they actually cost, with nothing added by me.Where your money goes
Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide fee | Rujan Neupane | My day rate × 3 days | For your whole private group |
| Flights Kathmandu – Janakpur | The airline | The airline's fare | You pay the airline, at cost |
| Cycle rickshaws | The riders | Agreed on the day | Paid at cost |
| Janaki Mandir | At the temple | Free entry; a small fee for the museum, if we go | Offerings are your choice |
| Rooms and meals | The hotel and restaurants | What they charge | You pay them directly; I never add anything |
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Photo notes
From a guide who is also a photographer.The places in detail
The history and stories behind what you will see.The route
Janakpur lies on the plains of Madhesh Province, south-east of Kathmandu and close to the Indian border. A short flight crosses the hills; by road it is a long day. In the city everything is close, and we move by cycle rickshaw and on foot.
Janaki Mandir
The temple of Sita, built in the early 20th century in white marble and stone, with domes and towers in a style unlike the pagoda temples of the Kathmandu Valley. In the evening it is lit, and the courtyard fills with pilgrims.
Mithila painting
A living art of the Maithili people, traditionally painted by women on the walls of their houses for weddings and festivals, and now also on paper and cloth: gods, fish, birds, elephants and the sun, in bright colours and fine lines.
The ponds
Janakpur has many sacred ponds. At Dhanush Sagar and Ganga Sagar pilgrims bathe in the morning and light lamps in the evening.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you go
What I would read first, from my own guides and tours.Guides to read first
- Nepal Trekking Etiquette: A Local Guide’s Guide to Culture and Respect on the Trail12 min read
- Useful Nepali Phrases for Trekking: Words That Open Every Door4 min read
- Festivals in Nepal and Trekking: Dashain, Tihar and the Trekking Calendar7 min read
- Upper Mustang Trek Guide: Tibet Without Leaving Nepal7 min read
Frequently asked questions
How do we get to Janakpur?
By a short flight from Kathmandu, about 30 minutes, or by road in a long day. I suggest the flight.
Is it very hot?
From April to September, yes. From October to March the days are pleasant, with cold, foggy mornings in December and January.
Can non-Hindus enter Janaki Mandir?
Yes, visitors are welcome in the temple courtyard. Remove your shoes and dress modestly.
Can I buy Mithila paintings?
Yes, from the women who paint them. I take you to them and you pay them directly.
Is it good for children?
Yes, outside the hot months. The days are easy and the rickshaw rides are a favourite.
Can we go during Vivah Panchami?
Yes, it is a wonderful time, but the city is very crowded and hotels fill early. Write to me well before.
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