Dumji at Junbesi
Photo: Sergey Pashko, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons
About
Eight days in Junbesi, an old Sherpa village in the Solu valley, for Dumji, the festival in honour of Guru Rinpoche. For four days the monks dance in masks in the monastery courtyard, families gather in their best clothes, and in the evenings the village sings and dances together. A short flight to Phaplu and a short drive bring us to Junbesi at about 2,700 m: no high passes, no long trek. Between festival days, the great monastery of Thupten Chholing and a walk to a viewpoint for Everest.
A private journey
Your holiday in Nepal, travelled your way
Namaste, and welcome to Nepal. A week or two here can feel like a race when you are one of thirty on a coach. With your own guide it becomes a journey: the same face every morning, a car that stops for tea in a village, a slow day when you need one, and someone who knows the country and wants you to feel at home in it. I would like you to go home feeling that Nepal was kind to you.
- A village festival, not a show
- Dumji is held by the village for itself; we watch as guests.
- No trek needed
- A flight and a short drive, then easy walks.
- Time between the dances
- Monasteries, a viewpoint and village life on the quiet mornings.
- Just you, and the people you came with
- No strangers to wait for, no group to keep up with.
- The same guide from the first day to the last
- You never start again with someone new.
- Rest days when you want them
- We add one, or move the plan, whenever you need it.
- The country between the places
- Villages, rivers and roadside tea, not only the famous sights.
- Someone to look after the details
- Tickets, permits, rooms and roads are arranged for you, so your mind is free.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Along the way
What this day is known for.
- Four days of masked dances in the Junbesi monastery courtyard
- An old Sherpa village of stone houses in the Solu valley
- Thupten Chholing, one of the largest monasteries of the region
- A walk to a viewpoint for Everest on clear days
- Evenings of song and dance in the village
Day by day, night by night
Where we go, how long on the road, and where you sleep each night.| Day | The day | On the road | The night | Room + meals |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Day 1 · Arrive in KathmanduI meet you at the airport or your hotel. Boudha in the evening if you like.
|
About 30 minutes from the airport | Kathmandu | Dinner |
| Day 2 | Day 2 · Fly to Phaplu, on to JunbesiA short mountain flight to Phaplu and a drive up the valley to Junbesi.
|
About 30 minutes by plane; about 1 hour by jeep | Junbesi (about 2,700 m), a lodge | Flight; jeep |
| Day 3 | Day 3 · Thupten ChholingA walk up the valley to Thupten Chholing monastery, home to many monks and nuns; the village prepares for the festival.
|
2 to 3 hours on foot there and back | Junbesi | Donations as you wish |
| Day 4 | Days 4 and 5 · DumjiThe first festival days in the monastery courtyard: prayers, masked dances, offerings; the village in the evenings.
|
On foot | Junbesi | Donations as you wish |
| Day 5 | Day 6 · Dumji and a viewpointAn early walk to Phurteng for the view to Everest on clear mornings, back for the dances.
|
3 to 4 hours on foot | Junbesi | — |
| Day 6 | Day 7 · The last day, down to PhapluThe closing rites in the morning, then down to Phaplu by jeep or on foot.
|
About 1 hour by jeep, or 4 to 5 hours on foot | Phaplu | Jeep |
| Day 7 | Day 8 · Fly to KathmanduThe morning flight back to Kathmandu, where the tour ends.
|
About 30 minutes by plane | Flight |
Is this tour for you?
Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before booking.- The dates are fixed by the village each year and can move; I confirm before you book flights.
- Phaplu flights can be delayed by cloud; the road takes 9 to 11 hours.
- Lodges are simple and the nights cold.
- Everest shows only on clear mornings.
Photos from this tour
More about this tour
Best time to go
Junbesi's Dumji is in late April or early May; the Khumbu villages hold theirs in June or July.- HazyJAN
- GoodFEB
- GoodMAR
- BestAPR
- BestMAY
- RainJUN
- RainJUL
- RainAUG
- GoodSEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- GoodDEC
Spring brings rhododendrons in the forests of Solu; afternoons can be cloudy.
Time of day
Festivals worth planning for
Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.
Before you go
The small practical things.Visiting with respect
These are living places of worship, not museums.- Do not step into the dance area.
- No flash; ask before photographing monks and families.
- Walk clockwise around stupas and mani walls.
- Accept food and drink with both hands; it is fine to say no politely.
Staying away: 6 nights
You pay me only my guide fee. Rooms and meals are paid at what they actually cost, with nothing added by me.Where your money goes
Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide fee | Rujan Neupane | My day rate × 8 days, plus my overnight allowance × 6 nights away from Kathmandu | For your whole private group |
| Flights Kathmandu–Phaplu and back | The airline | Its price | Paid at cost |
| Jeep Phaplu–Junbesi and back | The jeep owners | Their price | Paid at cost |
| Donations | The monastery | As you wish | Never expected |
| Entry tickets and park fees | Paid at the gate | Official price | See Entrance fees |
| Rooms and meals | The hotels, lodges and homestays | What they charge | You pay them directly, or I book at their price |
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Photo notes
From a guide who is also a photographer.The places in detail
The history and stories behind what you will see.Dumji
Dumji is a Sherpa festival held by village monasteries in honour of Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava), with prayers, masked dances and the casting out of misfortune for the year. Each village holds it on its own days: Junbesi in the Solu valley in late April or early May, and the villages of Khumbu (Thame, Khumjung, Namche, Pangboche) in June or July. Local families take turns to host it.
Junbesi
An old Sherpa village at about 2,700 m in the Solu valley, near the great monastery of Thupten Chholing.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you go
What I would read first, from my own guides and tours.Guides to read first
- Nepal Trekking Etiquette: A Local Guide’s Guide to Culture and Respect on the Trail12 min read
- Useful Nepali Phrases for Trekking: Words That Open Every Door4 min read
- Festivals in Nepal and Trekking: Dashain, Tihar and the Trekking Calendar7 min read
- Upper Mustang Trek Guide: Tibet Without Leaving Nepal7 min read
Frequently asked questions
When exactly is Dumji at Junbesi?
In late April or early May; the village sets the days each year. I confirm with the monastery before you book flights.
Can we see Dumji in Khumbu instead?
Yes, in June or July at Thame, Khumjung, Namche or Pangboche, but it needs a trek from Lukla; ask me.
Is it a trek?
No: a flight, a short drive and easy walks.
Is the guide fee for each person?
No. One rate for your whole private group of 1 to 5 people.
Can you book everything?
If you want, I book the car, rooms and flights at their own price and send you every price by email first. You can also book them yourself.
Can we join the dances in the evening?
Often the village invites guests in; follow their lead.
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