Pashupatinath and Boudha at dusk
About
Two of Nepal's holiest places, a short distance apart, at the time of day when they are most alive. At Pashupatinath, on the Bagmati river, we see the temple town in the late afternoon and stay for the evening aarati, the fire ceremony on the ghats. Then we go to Boudhanath, the great white stupa, and walk the kora with the Tibetan families who circle it at dusk among butter lamps and prayer wheels. It is a quiet, slow evening, with time to sit and watch.
A private tour
Your own day, at your own pace
Namaste, and welcome. This is not a group tour; it is your day. Just you and the people you came with, and me as your guide. We start when you are ready, stop wherever something catches your eye, and sit in a courtyard for as long as you like. No one is waiting at a bus, and there is no list we have to finish. I would like you to leave feeling you met the city, not that you rushed through it.
- We start when you like
- Early for the quiet squares and the morning prayers, or after a slow breakfast. I pick you up at your hotel.
- Time for every question
- The gods on the temple struts, the festival in the street, the food on the corner. There is time for every answer.
- Space to just be there
- A cup of tea while the square wakes up. Often the best moments of a day are the ones nobody planned.
- The plan bends to you
- Tired, or curious about something else? We leave a place out, or stay longer.
- Only the shops you ask for
- We stop at a shop only if you want to.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Along the way
What this day is known for.
- The evening aarati on the Bagmati at Pashupatinath
- The temple town of Pashupatinath and its shrines along the river
- The kora around Boudhanath stupa at dusk
- Butter lamps in a monastery near the stupa
- Tea on a rooftop facing the stupa's eyes
The day, stop by stop
Times move with traffic and with you.-
15:00
Pick-up at your hotel
By car to Pashupatinath, about 20 to 40 minutes depending on traffic.
-
15:45
Pashupatinath
The ghats on the Bagmati, the shrines on the east bank and the terraces facing the main temple. Only Hindus may enter the main temple; from the east bank you see it well.
- Pashupatinath
-
17:30
The evening aarati
We sit on the east bank steps for the fire ceremony on the ghats. It starts around sunset, earlier in winter.
- Pashupatinath
-
18:45
To Boudhanath
A short drive to Boudha, or a walk if you like.
-
19:00
The kora at Boudhanath
We walk clockwise around the stupa with the evening crowd, and visit a monastery where butter lamps are lit.
- Boudhanath
-
19:45
Tea facing the stupa
Time to sit on a rooftop, then back to your hotel.
- Boudhanath
Is this tour for you?
Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before booking.- Pashupatinath's main temple is open to Hindus only.
- Evenings are busy and noisy around the aarati, especially on Mondays and festival days.
- Traffic between the two places can be slow at rush hour.
- In the monsoon, evening rain can make the ghats slippery.
More about this tour
Best time to go
Any month; the evening is the point.- GoodJAN
- GoodFEB
- BestMAR
- GoodAPR
- HazyMAY
- RainJUN
- RainJUL
- RainAUG
- GoodSEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- BestDEC
In winter dusk is earlier and colder, so we start earlier. In the monsoon we carry umbrellas.
Time of day
Festivals worth planning for
Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.
Before you go
The small practical things.Visiting with respect
These are living places of worship, not museums.- Walk clockwise around stupas, temples and shrines.
- Ask before photographing people, and never photograph cremations up close.
- Take off shoes and leather where you see others do it.
- Do not touch offerings or step over them on the ground.
Where your money goes
Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide (me) | Rujan Neupane | My city day rate | One rate for 1 to 5 people |
| Car and driver | A local driver | What the driver charges | Paid at cost |
| Entrance fees | The sites | See my Entrance fees page | Paid at the gate, at cost |
| Tea and snacks | Cafés | What they charge | You pay directly |
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Photo notes
From a guide who is also a photographer.The places in detail
The history and stories behind what you will see.Pashupatinath
Pashupatinath is Nepal’s most important Hindu temple, dedicated to Shiva, on the Bagmati river in the east of Kathmandu. Around the main temple is a whole temple town: shrines, ghats where cremations take place, ashrams and sadhus. Every evening a fire ceremony, the aarati, is held on the ghats.
Boudhanath
Boudhanath is one of the largest stupas in the world and the heart of Tibetan Buddhist life in Kathmandu. In the evening, families, monks and visitors walk around it clockwise, spinning prayer wheels. Both places are part of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site.
Fees
Both places have an entrance fee for foreign visitors. You find them on my Entrance fees page.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you go
What I would read first, from my own guides and tours.Guides to read first
- Nepal Trekking Etiquette: A Local Guide’s Guide to Culture and Respect on the Trail12 min read
- Useful Nepali Phrases for Trekking: Words That Open Every Door4 min read
- Festivals in Nepal and Trekking: Dashain, Tihar and the Trekking Calendar7 min read
- Upper Mustang Trek Guide: Tibet Without Leaving Nepal7 min read
Frequently asked questions
Can non-Hindus enter Pashupatinath temple?
No, the main temple is open to Hindus only. The rest of the temple town and the east bank, where you see the main temple and the aarati, are open to everyone.
What time does the aarati start?
Around sunset, so earlier in winter and later in summer. We arrive in time to find a seat.
Is it all right to watch the cremations?
You can see them from the other bank. Please watch quietly, and never photograph families or the dead up close.
How far apart are the two places?
A short drive, or about 45 minutes on foot through the old lanes.
Can we do it in the morning instead?
Yes. The mornings are calmer, but there is no aarati.
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