Kirtipur and the Chobhar gorge
About
Kirtipur is an old Newar town on a ridge just south-west of Kathmandu, with brick lanes, temples and wide views over the valley, and very few visitors. Below it, the Bagmati river leaves the valley through the narrow Chobhar gorge, the place where, the story says, the god Manjushri cut the hill to drain the lake that once filled the valley. This half day walks the old town, then goes down to the gorge and the temples beside it.
A private tour
Your own day, at your own pace
Namaste, and welcome. This is not a group tour; it is your day. Just you and the people you came with, and me as your guide. We start when you are ready, stop wherever something catches your eye, and sit in a courtyard for as long as you like. No one is waiting at a bus, and there is no list we have to finish. I would like you to leave feeling you met the city, not that you rushed through it.
- We start when you like
- Early for the quiet squares and the morning prayers, or after a slow breakfast. I pick you up at your hotel.
- Time for every question
- The gods on the temple struts, the festival in the street, the food on the corner. There is time for every answer.
- Space to just be there
- A cup of tea while the square wakes up. Often the best moments of a day are the ones nobody planned.
- The plan bends to you
- Tired, or curious about something else? We leave a place out, or stay longer.
- Only the shops you ask for
- We stop at a shop only if you want to.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Along the way
What this day is known for.
- The brick lanes and squares of old Kirtipur
- Bagh Bhairab temple and Uma Maheshwar on the ridge
- Chilancho stupa and the view over the valley
- The Chobhar gorge where the valley's lake drained
- Adinath Lokeshwar temple at Chobhar, hung with pots and pans
The day, stop by stop
Times move with traffic and with you.-
09:00
Pick-up at your hotel
By car to Kirtipur, about 30 to 45 minutes.
-
09:45
Old Kirtipur
Up through the lanes to Bagh Bhairab temple, the main square and the old houses.
- Kirtipur
-
10:45
The ridge
Uma Maheshwar temple and Chilancho stupa, with the valley spread out below.
- Kirtipur
-
11:45
Lunch
A Newar lunch in a local place in Kirtipur, if you like.
- Kirtipur
-
12:45
Chobhar
A short drive down to Adinath Lokeshwar temple on Chobhar hill, then to the gorge and Jal Binayak temple below.
- Chobhar
-
14:00
Back to your hotel
Is this tour for you?
Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before booking.- Kirtipur is a living town, not a museum: some houses are new and the lanes have traffic at the edges.
- The area around the gorge has industry and dusty roads nearby.
- In spring, haze often hides the mountains from the ridge.
More about this tour
Best time to go
Clear days in autumn and winter give the view.- GoodJAN
- GoodFEB
- BestMAR
- GoodAPR
- HazyMAY
- RainJUN
- RainJUL
- RainAUG
- GoodSEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- BestDEC
From October to February the ridge sometimes shows the Himalaya to the north on clear mornings.
Time of day
Festivals worth planning for
Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.
Before you go
The small practical things.Visiting with respect
These are living places of worship, not museums.- Walk clockwise around stupas, temples and shrines.
- Ask before photographing people, and never photograph cremations up close.
- Take off shoes and leather where you see others do it.
- Do not touch offerings or step over them on the ground.
Where your money goes
Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide (me) | Rujan Neupane | My city day rate | One rate for 1 to 5 people |
| Car and driver | A local driver | What the driver charges | Paid at cost |
| Entrance fees | The sites | See my Entrance fees page | Paid at the gate, at cost |
| Lunch | A local restaurant | What they charge | You pay directly |
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Photo notes
From a guide who is also a photographer.The places in detail
The history and stories behind what you will see.Kirtipur
Kirtipur is one of the old Newar towns of the Kathmandu Valley. It stands on a ridge above the Tribhuvan University campus, and its people are known for their history: the town held out for a long time against the army of Prithvi Narayan Shah before it fell in the 1760s. The old part has temples, ponds and squares that are still used every day.
Chobhar
At Chobhar the Bagmati cuts through the hills in a narrow gorge. The old story says the valley was a lake until Manjushri cut this gorge with his sword. On the hill above stands Adinath Lokeshwar temple, where people offer pots and pans, often after a wedding.
Fees
Some sites ask a small fee. You find them on my Entrance fees page.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you go
What I would read first, from my own guides and tours.Guides to read first
- Nepal Trekking Etiquette: A Local Guide’s Guide to Culture and Respect on the Trail12 min read
- Useful Nepali Phrases for Trekking: Words That Open Every Door4 min read
- Festivals in Nepal and Trekking: Dashain, Tihar and the Trekking Calendar7 min read
- Upper Mustang Trek Guide: Tibet Without Leaving Nepal7 min read
Frequently asked questions
How far is Kirtipur from Thamel?
About 30 to 45 minutes by car, depending on traffic.
Is it a hard walk?
Not hard, but the lanes are steep in places. We go slowly and stop often.
Can we see the mountains?
On clear mornings from October to February, sometimes. In spring and the monsoon, usually not.
Is there a fee?
Some sites ask a small fee; see my Entrance fees page.
Reviews from guests who toured with me are published automatically, exactly as they wrote them. Reviews sent through the open form are checked for spam only.
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- +977 984-3808583
- Phone
- +977 984-3808583
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More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.
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