Changu Narayan on its hill
About
Changu Narayan stands on a hilltop at the eastern edge of the valley and is often called the oldest temple in Nepal still in use. Its courtyard holds some of the finest stone and wood carving in the country, and a stone pillar with the oldest dated inscription in Nepal, from the fifth century. This walk reaches the temple along the ridge, takes time in the courtyard and the small village below it, then walks down through fields towards Bhaktapur.
A private tour
Your own day, at your own pace
Namaste, and welcome. This is not a group tour; it is your day. Just you and the people you came with, and me as your guide. We start when you are ready, stop wherever something catches your eye, and sit in a courtyard for as long as you like. No one is waiting at a bus, and there is no list we have to finish. I would like you to leave feeling you met the city, not that you rushed through it.
- We start when you like
- Early for the quiet squares and the morning prayers, or after a slow breakfast. I pick you up at your hotel.
- Time for every question
- The gods on the temple struts, the festival in the street, the food on the corner. There is time for every answer.
- Space to just be there
- A cup of tea while the square wakes up. Often the best moments of a day are the ones nobody planned.
- The plan bends to you
- Tired, or curious about something else? We leave a place out, or stay longer.
- Only the shops you ask for
- We stop at a shop only if you want to.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Along the way
What this day is known for.
- Changu Narayan temple, a World Heritage monument zone
- Fifth-century stone sculptures and the Licchavi inscription
- The small Newar village on the temple hill
- A ridge and field walk with valley views
- Bhaktapur at the end, if you want more
The day, stop by stop
Times move with traffic and with you.-
08:30
Pick-up at your hotel
By car towards Bhaktapur and up to the ridge at Telkot, about an hour.
-
09:30
Ridge walk to Changu
Along the ridge through pine forest and villages to the temple. About 1 to 1½ hours.
-
11:00
Changu Narayan temple
The courtyard, the carvings and the stone inscription, slowly.
- Changu Narayan
-
12:15
The village and lunch
The lane below the temple, its small museum, and lunch.
- Changu Narayan
-
13:30
Down through the fields
A walk down to the Manohara river and the road to Bhaktapur. About 1½ hours.
-
15:00
Bhaktapur or home
We end in Bhaktapur if you want to see it, or go back to your hotel.
Is this tour for you?
Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before booking.- Parts of the temple were damaged in 2015; some repair work may be going on.
- The field walk crosses some roads and new building.
- Bhaktapur's fee is separate if we go in.
More about this tour
Best time to go
Cool, clear months are best for walking.- GoodJAN
- GoodFEB
- BestMAR
- GoodAPR
- HazyMAY
- RainJUN
- RainJUL
- RainAUG
- GoodSEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- BestDEC
October to February: clear and cool. From April it is hot by midday, so we start earlier.
Time of day
Before you go
The small practical things.Visiting with respect
These are living places of worship, not museums.- Walk clockwise around stupas, temples and shrines.
- Ask before photographing people, and never photograph cremations up close.
- Take off shoes and leather where you see others do it.
- Do not touch offerings or step over them on the ground.
Where your money goes
Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide (me) | Rujan Neupane | My city day rate | One rate for 1 to 5 people |
| Car and driver | A local driver | What the driver charges | Paid at cost |
| Entrance fees | The sites | See my Entrance fees page | Paid at the gate, at cost |
| Lunch | A local restaurant | What they charge | You pay directly |
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Photo notes
From a guide who is also a photographer.The places in detail
The history and stories behind what you will see.Changu Narayan
The temple is dedicated to Vishnu as Narayan. The present building dates from a rebuilding after a fire around 1700, but the site and many of its stone sculptures are far older. A stone pillar in the courtyard carries an inscription of King Manadeva, dated to 464 CE, the oldest dated inscription in Nepal. Changu Narayan is one of the seven monument zones of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site.
The walk
We reach the temple on foot along the ridge and walk down through fields afterwards. If you prefer, we drive to the temple and keep the walking short.
Fees
Changu Narayan and Bhaktapur each ask a fee from foreign visitors: see my Entrance fees page.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you go
What I would read first, from my own guides and tours.Guides to read first
- Nepal Trekking Etiquette: A Local Guide’s Guide to Culture and Respect on the Trail12 min read
- Useful Nepali Phrases for Trekking: Words That Open Every Door4 min read
- Festivals in Nepal and Trekking: Dashain, Tihar and the Trekking Calendar7 min read
- Upper Mustang Trek Guide: Tibet Without Leaving Nepal7 min read
Frequently asked questions
Is Changu Narayan really the oldest temple in Nepal?
It is often called the oldest temple still in use. The building was rebuilt around 1700, but the site and its inscription go back to the fifth century.
How long is the walk?
About 6 to 8 km in all, with some up and down. We can shorten it.
Can we combine it with Bhaktapur?
Yes. The walk ends near Bhaktapur, so we can finish there.
Is there an entrance fee?
Yes, for foreign visitors; see my Entrance fees page.
Reviews from guests who toured with me are published automatically, exactly as they wrote them. Reviews sent through the open form are checked for spam only.
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- +977 984-3808583
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- +977 984-3808583
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