Bungamati and Khokana
About
Two Newar villages on the southern edge of the valley, a short walk apart through fields. Bungamati is the second home of Rato Machhindranath, the red god of rain, and a village of woodcarvers. Khokana is known for its mustard oil, pressed in the old way, and for its brick lanes and quiet squares. Both were badly damaged in the 2015 earthquake and are still rebuilding. It is an easy, gentle half day, and very different from the city.
A private tour
Your own day, at your own pace
Namaste, and welcome. This is not a group tour; it is your day. Just you and the people you came with, and me as your guide. We start when you are ready, stop wherever something catches your eye, and sit in a courtyard for as long as you like. No one is waiting at a bus, and there is no list we have to finish. I would like you to leave feeling you met the city, not that you rushed through it.
- We start when you like
- Early for the quiet squares and the morning prayers, or after a slow breakfast. I pick you up at your hotel.
- Time for every question
- The gods on the temple struts, the festival in the street, the food on the corner. There is time for every answer.
- Space to just be there
- A cup of tea while the square wakes up. Often the best moments of a day are the ones nobody planned.
- The plan bends to you
- Tired, or curious about something else? We leave a place out, or stay longer.
- Only the shops you ask for
- We stop at a shop only if you want to.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Along the way
What this day is known for.
- The shrine of Rato Machhindranath in Bungamati
- Woodcarvers at work in Bungamati's lanes
- The field path between the two villages
- The old mustard-oil press in Khokana
- Brick lanes, wells and village squares
The day, stop by stop
Times move with traffic and with you.-
09:00
Pick-up at your hotel
By car past Patan to Bungamati, about 45 minutes to an hour.
-
10:00
Bungamati
The square and the shrine of Rato Machhindranath, the rebuilding work, and woodcarvers' workshops.
- Bungamati
-
11:15
The field path
A gentle walk through fields to Khokana, past Karya Binayak temple.
-
11:45
Khokana
The village lanes, the mustard-oil press and the square.
- Khokana
-
12:45
Lunch
A simple lunch in the village, if you like.
- Khokana
-
13:45
Back to your hotel
Is this tour for you?
Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before booking.- Both villages are still rebuilding after the 2015 earthquake; some temples are under repair.
- New roads and buildings are coming up around the villages.
- The oil press does not run every day.
More about this tour
Best time to go
Any dry month; harvest times are lovely.- GoodJAN
- GoodFEB
- BestMAR
- GoodAPR
- HazyMAY
- RainJUN
- RainJUL
- RainAUG
- GoodSEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- BestDEC
In autumn the rice is harvested and in winter the mustard fields are yellow.
Time of day
Festivals worth planning for
Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.
Before you go
The small practical things.Visiting with respect
These are living places of worship, not museums.- Walk clockwise around stupas, temples and shrines.
- Ask before photographing people, and never photograph cremations up close.
- Take off shoes and leather where you see others do it.
- Do not touch offerings or step over them on the ground.
Where your money goes
Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide (me) | Rujan Neupane | My city day rate | One rate for 1 to 5 people |
| Car and driver | A local driver | What the driver charges | Paid at cost |
| Entrance fees | The sites | See my Entrance fees page | Paid at the gate, at cost |
| Lunch | A village restaurant | What they charge | You pay directly |
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Photo notes
From a guide who is also a photographer.The places in detail
The history and stories behind what you will see.Bungamati
Bungamati is a Newar village on a ridge above the Bagmati, south of Patan. Rato Machhindranath, the god of rain and harvest, lives here for part of the year and in Patan for the rest; his great chariot festival moves him between the two. The village is known for woodcarving.
Khokana
Khokana, a short walk away, has kept much of its old layout. Its mustard oil, pressed in a heavy wooden press, is known across the valley.
After the earthquake
Both villages were badly damaged in April 2015. Rebuilding with old materials and methods is still going on, and you see it as you walk.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you go
What I would read first, from my own guides and tours.Guides to read first
- Nepal Trekking Etiquette: A Local Guide’s Guide to Culture and Respect on the Trail12 min read
- Useful Nepali Phrases for Trekking: Words That Open Every Door4 min read
- Festivals in Nepal and Trekking: Dashain, Tihar and the Trekking Calendar7 min read
- Upper Mustang Trek Guide: Tibet Without Leaving Nepal7 min read
Frequently asked questions
How far are Bungamati and Khokana from Kathmandu?
About 45 minutes to an hour by car from Thamel, less from Patan.
Is it suitable for children?
Yes. The walking is easy and there is a lot to see.
Can we see the oil press working?
Often, but not every day. I ask before we go.
Is there an entrance fee?
Khokana asks a fee from foreign visitors at times; see my Entrance fees page.
Reviews from guests who toured with me are published automatically, exactly as they wrote them. Reviews sent through the open form are checked for spam only.
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- +977 984-3808583
- Phone
- +977 984-3808583
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More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.
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