Panauti and Balthali

About

Panauti is an old Newar town where two rivers meet, east of Kathmandu, with brick lanes, carved temples and the great pagoda of Indreshwar Mahadev; its families run a community homestay. From there a walk through fields and forest leads up to Balthali, a village on a ridge with homestays and, on clear mornings, a long line of snow mountains to the north. Three days, two very different nights: an old town and a hill village, both an easy drive from Kathmandu.

A private tour

A few days that belong to you

Namaste, and welcome. Just your group, your own car and me. You wake in a quiet guest house, walk when the light is good, and rest when you want to. Nobody hurries you to the next stop on someone else's timetable. For these few days, the road is yours.

Your own start
I pick you up at your hotel at the time you choose.
The plan can change
If a day is better spent in the village, we stay longer there.
No shopping stops
We go to shops only when you ask.
Your own car and driver
It stops for a view, a tea shop or a photo whenever you ask.
Mornings without an alarm
Sunrise if you want it, a slow breakfast if you do not.
One person to ask
The same guide all the way: for the history, the food, the road and anything that goes wrong.
Quiet places to sleep
Small guest houses, chosen for calm rather than size.
The plan bends to you
A place left out, a longer stay, a slower day: we decide together as we go.

With warmth, Rujan Neupane

Along the way

What this day is known for.

  1. Indreshwar Mahadev, Panauti's great pagoda
  2. Triveni, where the rivers meet
  3. Brick lanes of an old Newar town
  4. A walk through fields up to Balthali
  5. Langtang to Gaurishankar from the ridge
  6. Two different homestays
Jump to

Day by day, night by night

Where we go, how long on the road, and where you sleep each night.
KathmanduSTART · ENDPanauti1 NIGHTBalthali1 NIGHT
DayThe dayOn the roadThe nightRoom + meals
Day 1 Day 1 · Kathmandu to PanautiEast by car past Banepa to Panauti. An afternoon in the old town: the lanes, Indreshwar Mahadev and the river confluence at Triveni. Evening with your Newar host family.
  • Kathmandu
  • Panauti
About 1.5 hours by car Panauti, a homestay Car; homestay
Day 2 Day 2 · Up to BalthaliOn foot through fields, villages and forest up to the ridge village of Balthali. Afternoon to rest and watch the light.
  • Panauti
  • Balthali
Balthali, a homestay Homestay
Day 3 Day 3 · The mountains, then homeSunrise over the northern mountains from the ridge, then down to the road and back to Kathmandu.
  • Balthali
  • Kathmandu
About 2 hours by car Car
Lodging and mealsAt actual cost, per night, as the lodges charge. Not part of the guide fee; nothing added.
Change the loopAdd a night, drop a stop, end somewhere else: tell me, and I re-plan it with you.
The paceGentle. One walk of about 3 to 4 hours; the rest is slow time.

Is this tour for you?

Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.
Short timeClose to Kathmandu.
CultureNewar town life, then a quiet hill village.
Gentle walkersOne moderate walk.
PhotographersOld lanes and morning mountains.

Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me

The honest downsides

What I'd want to know before booking.
  • The mountains are far on the horizon and often hazy from late March.
  • The roads near Kathmandu are busy.
  • Simple homestays.
  • The walk is muddy in the monsoon.

More about this tour

Best time to go

Best from October to December, and in March.
  1. GoodJAN
  2. GoodFEB
  3. BestMAR
  4. GoodAPR
  5. HazyMAY
  6. RainJUN
  7. RainJUL
  8. RainAUG
  9. RainSEP
  10. BestOCT
  11. BestNOV
  12. GoodDEC
Best: clear and mild Good: cool mornings or some haze Warm, hazy and dusty Monsoon: afternoon rain

From late March to May the far views are often hazy; from June to September the monsoon brings rain, leeches on forest paths and cloud on the mountains. December and January nights are cold in the hills.

Time of day

AfternoonPanauti's lanes.
EveningThe ridge at Balthali.
DawnThe northern mountains.

Festivals worth planning for

Panauti JatraUsually late May or June: the town's chariot festival.
Makar MelaEvery twelve years at Triveni; ask the next date.

Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.

Before you go

The small practical things.
VisaMost visitors get a visa on arrival at Kathmandu airport; check the rules for your passport before you fly.
LayersWarm layers for early mornings and evenings, light clothes for the lowlands.
ShoesComfortable walking shoes; sandals for the hotel.
CashNepali rupees in small notes for tea, tips, tickets and donations; cards work only in larger hotels.
A small torchVillage paths are dark at night.
Slippers or sandalsYou take off your shoes in every home.

Visiting with respect

These are living places of worship, not museums.
  • Take off your shoes at the door, and do not step over the fire or the stove.
  • Ask before entering the kitchen or the prayer room.
  • Dress with shoulders and knees covered.
  • Ask before photographing people, especially children and elders.
  • Pay what the homestay asks; in community homestays the price is fixed and shared.

Staying away: 2 nights

You pay me only my guide fee. Rooms and meals are paid at what they actually cost, with nothing added by me.
LodgingPaid at cost, as the lodge charges
MealsPaid at cost, where we eat

Where your money goes

Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.
WhatWho receives itAmountNote
Guide feeRujan NeupaneMy day rate × 3 days, plus my overnight allowance × 2 nights away from KathmanduFor your whole private group
Car and driverThe driver or car companyAgreed before the tourPaid at cost
Entry tickets where askedThe temples or the townOfficial priceSee Entrance fees
Entry tickets and park feesPaid at the gateOfficial priceSee Entrance fees
Rooms and mealsThe hotels, lodges and homestaysWhat they chargeYou pay them directly, or I book at their price

I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.

Photo notes

From a guide who is also a photographer.
PanautiLate afternoon light in the lanes.
BalthaliSunrise with a longer lens for the mountains.

The places in detail

The history and stories behind what you will see.

Panauti

Panauti is an old Newar town in Kavre district, about 32 km east of Kathmandu, at the meeting of the Roshi and Punyamati rivers. Its temple of Indreshwar Mahadev is one of the oldest and largest pagodas in Nepal, and the riverside at Triveni is a place of pilgrimage. The town’s community homestay welcomes guests into Newar family homes.

Balthali

Balthali is a hill village south-east of Panauti, on a ridge above the Roshi valley, with homestays and a wide view to the north: on clear mornings the mountains of Langtang, Dorje Lakpa and Gaurishankar.

See what a night with a family is like, and my other village stays. Entry tickets are at the official price: see entrance fees in Nepal.

My promises

Written down, so you can hold me to them.
  • No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
  • Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
  • Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
  • Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.

Frequently asked questions

How far is Panauti from Kathmandu?

About 32 km; around 1.5 hours by car.

How long is the walk to Balthali?

About 3 to 4 hours, through fields and forest.

Which mountains can we see?

On clear mornings, the Langtang range to Gaurishankar.

Can we do it in two days?

Yes, with one night in Balthali, but it is rushed.

Is the guide fee for each person?

No. One rate for your whole private group of 1 to 5 people.

Can you book everything?

If you want, I book the car, rooms and flights at their own price and send you every price by email first. You can also book them yourself.

Reviews from guests who toured with me are published automatically, exactly as they wrote them. Reviews sent through the open form are checked for spam only.

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Plan it with me

Tell me how you'd like to spend the day. I'll plan the rest around you.

Rujan NeupaneTrekking & Tour Guide · Kathmandu

Send your date, group size and anything you'd like to see or skip, whichever way suits you.

Know your date already? Book me as your guide for this tour

More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.

Verified credentials

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