Photo: Greenleaf44, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons
About
Ten days planned around the light, not the sights. Dawn at Swayambhu with the pilgrims, dusk at Boudha with the butter lamps, a night inside old Bhaktapur for the empty squares at sunrise; the hill town of Bandipur above the morning mist; Pokhara with sunrise from Sarangkot on the Annapurna range and Machhapuchhre; and Chitwan, with the Rapti river at dawn and rhinos in the tall grass. A private guide who is also a photographer, who knows where to stand and when, and who asks people first.
A private journey
Your holiday in Nepal, travelled your way
Namaste, and welcome to Nepal. A week or two here can feel like a race when you are one of thirty on a coach. With your own guide it becomes a journey: the same face every morning, a car that stops for tea in a village, a slow day when you need one, and someone who knows the country and wants you to feel at home in it. I would like you to go home feeling that Nepal was kind to you.
- Dawn and dusk
- We work the golden hours and rest at midday.
- Where to stand
- I know the rooftops, corners and viewpoints.
- Asking first
- We photograph people with their consent, always.
- Just you, and the people you came with
- No strangers to wait for, no group to keep up with.
- The same guide from the first day to the last
- You never start again with someone new.
- Rest days when you want them
- We add one, or move the plan, whenever you need it.
- The country between the places
- Villages, rivers and roadside tea, not only the famous sights.
- Someone to look after the details
- Tickets, permits, rooms and roads are arranged for you, so your mind is free.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Along the way
What this day is known for.
- Dawn at Swayambhu and Sarangkot
- Boudha at dusk, with butter lamps
- Bhaktapur's squares empty at sunrise
- Bandipur above the morning mist
- Machhapuchhre and Annapurna from Pokhara
- Rhinos in Chitwan's tall grass
Day by day, night by night
Where we go, how long on the road, and where you sleep each night.| Day | The day | On the road | The night | Room + meals |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Day 1 · Arrive in KathmanduI meet you at the airport. If you arrive early, Boudha at dusk.
|
About 30 minutes from the airport | Kathmandu | Entry ticket |
| Day 2 | Day 2 · Swayambhu at dawn, old townThe kora and the stupa at first light, then the courtyards and markets of the old town.
|
Short drives, on foot | Kathmandu | Entry tickets |
| Day 3 | Day 3 · Patan, then BhaktapurPatan's courtyards in soft light, then to Bhaktapur for dusk and the night inside the old city.
|
About 1 hour by car | Bhaktapur | Entry tickets |
| Day 4 | Day 4 · Bhaktapur at sunrise, on to BandipurEmpty squares and morning worship, then west to the hill town of Bandipur for the evening.
|
About 5 to 6 hours by car | Bandipur | Car |
| Day 5 | Day 5 · Bandipur mist, on to PokharaDawn on the Tundikhel viewpoint above the valley mist, then on to Pokhara.
|
About 2.5 hours by car | Pokhara | Car |
| Day 6 | Day 6 · Sarangkot sunriseSunrise on the Annapurna range and Machhapuchhre from Sarangkot; in the evening, boats on Phewa Lake.
|
Short drives | Pokhara | Boat |
| Day 7 | Day 7 · Pokhara to ChitwanDown to the lowlands; the Rapti river at sunset.
|
About 5 to 6 hours by car | Chitwan | Car |
| Day 8 | Day 8 · Chitwan National ParkA canoe at dawn and a jeep drive in the grassland, with the park's licensed nature guide.
|
Chitwan | Park entry; canoe, jeep and nature guide at their prices | |
| Day 9 | Day 9 · Chitwan to KathmanduA last dawn by the river, then back to Kathmandu by road or a short flight.
|
5 to 6 hours by car, or 25 minutes by plane | Kathmandu | Car or flight |
| Day 10 | Day 10 · DepartureA last morning, then the airport.
|
— |
Is this tour for you?
Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before booking.- Haze can hide the mountains, especially from late March.
- Early starts most days.
- Long road days between places.
- Drones need permits and are banned in many places; see my drone guide.
More about this tour
Best time to go
October to February for clear air.- BestJAN
- BestFEB
- GoodMAR
- HazyAPR
- HazyMAY
- RainJUN
- RainJUL
- RainAUG
- GoodSEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- BestDEC
In December and January Chitwan mornings are foggy, and Bandipur's valley fog is at its best. From late March the haze grows.
Time of day
Festivals worth planning for
Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.
Before you go
The small practical things.Visiting with respect
These are living places of worship, not museums.- Walk around stupas, monasteries and temples clockwise.
- Ask before photographing people at prayer, or inside temples; some do not allow it.
- Take off your shoes where others do, and dress with shoulders and knees covered at holy places.
- In the parks, keep quiet and keep your distance from animals; follow the nature guide.
- Ask before photographing people; some will say no, and that is fine.
Staying away: 9 nights
You pay me only my guide fee. Rooms and meals are paid at what they actually cost, with nothing added by me.Where your money goes
Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide fee | Rujan Neupane | My day rate × 10 days, plus my overnight allowance × 6 nights away from Kathmandu | For your whole private group |
| Car and driver | The driver or car company | Agreed before the tour | Paid at cost |
| Jeeps, canoes, boats and nature guides in the park | The park's guides and operators | Their prices | Paid to them |
| Boat on Phewa Lake | The boatmen | Their fixed price | Paid at cost |
| Flight Bharatpur–Kathmandu, if we fly | The airline | Its fare | Paid at cost |
| Entry tickets and park fees | Paid at the gate | Official price | See Entrance fees |
| Rooms and meals | The hotels, lodges and homestays | What they charge | You pay them directly, or I book at their price |
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Photo notes
From a guide who is also a photographer.The places in detail
The history and stories behind what you will see.A route planned around the light
This tour puts each place at its best hour: Swayambhu and Bhaktapur at dawn, Boudha and Patan at dusk, the mountains from Sarangkot and Bandipur at sunrise, and Chitwan’s river in the morning mist. See the best sunrise viewpoints and camera gear.
The places
Swayambhu, Boudhanath, and the squares of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur are part of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site (see UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Nepal). Chitwan National Park is a World Heritage Site too.
Entry tickets and park fees are at the official price: see entrance fees in Nepal.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you go
What I would read first, from my own guides and tours.Guides to read first
Frequently asked questions
Do I need a big camera?
No. A phone works well; a camera with a longer lens helps in Chitwan.
Can I fly a drone?
Only with a permit, and not in many places. See my drone guide.
Will we see the mountains?
Most likely from October to February, at dawn.
Is the guide fee for each person?
No. One rate for your whole private group of 1 to 5 people.
Can you book everything?
If you want, I book the car, rooms and flights at their own price and send you every price by email first. You can also book them yourself.
When is best?
October to February.
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- +977 984-3808583
- Phone
- +977 984-3808583
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More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.
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