The Kathmandu Valley Slowly
Photo: Bikram Pratap Singh, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons
About
Most visitors see Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur in a single rushed day, by car, at the busiest hours. This short tour does the opposite: one night in each of the three old royal cities, so you are already inside when the day begins and still there when the crowds leave. Dawn worship at Swayambhu and the old town of Kathmandu, a night among Patan's courtyards, a walk over the hill to Changu Narayan, and Bhaktapur's squares by lamplight and at sunrise. The valley at walking pace.
A private journey
Your holiday in Nepal, travelled your way
Namaste, and welcome to Nepal. A week or two here can feel like a race when you are one of thirty on a coach. With your own guide it becomes a journey: the same face every morning, a car that stops for tea in a village, a slow day when you need one, and someone who knows the country and wants you to feel at home in it. I would like you to go home feeling that Nepal was kind to you.
- Inside at the best hours
- We sleep in each city, so mornings and evenings are ours.
- On foot
- Walks instead of traffic where we can.
- Your pace
- Long stops wherever you like.
- Just you, and the people you came with
- No strangers to wait for, no group to keep up with.
- The same guide from the first day to the last
- You never start again with someone new.
- Rest days when you want them
- We add one, or move the plan, whenever you need it.
- The country between the places
- Villages, rivers and roadside tea, not only the famous sights.
- Someone to look after the details
- Tickets, permits, rooms and roads are arranged for you, so your mind is free.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Along the way
What this day is known for.
- The three royal cities, one night in each
- Swayambhu at dawn
- Patan's courtyards in the evening
- Changu Narayan, the valley's oldest temple
- Bhaktapur at sunrise and dusk
- Boudha on the way home
Day by day, night by night
Where we go, how long on the road, and where you sleep each night.| Day | The day | On the road | The night | Room + meals |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Day 1 · KathmanduSwayambhu at dawn with the pilgrims, then the old town's markets and courtyards and Durbar Square.
|
Short drives, on foot | Kathmandu | Entry tickets |
| Day 2 | Day 2 · PatanTo Patan: the Durbar Square, the Patan Museum, the Golden Temple and the courtyards as evening comes.
|
About 30 minutes by car | Patan | Entry tickets |
| Day 3 | Day 3 · Changu Narayan and BhaktapurBy car to Changu Narayan on its hill, then on foot down through villages and fields to Bhaktapur, and dusk in its squares.
|
About 1 hour by car; 2 to 3 hours on foot | Bhaktapur | Entry tickets |
| Day 4 | Day 4 · Bhaktapur at sunrise, BoudhaThe squares empty at dawn, Pottery Square, then Boudha on the way back to Kathmandu.
|
About 1 hour by car | Entry tickets; car |
Is this tour for you?
Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before booking.- Entry fees for foreign visitors add up: each city and several sites charge.
- Old-town guesthouses are charming but can be simple and noisy.
- Traffic between the cities is slow.
- Haze often hides the mountains from the valley.
Photos from this tour
More about this tour
Best time to go
October to April.- BestJAN
- BestFEB
- GoodMAR
- HazyAPR
- HazyMAY
- RainJUN
- RainJUL
- RainAUG
- GoodSEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- BestDEC
From late March the valley is hazy; in the monsoon mornings are clearer and afternoons wet.
Time of day
Festivals worth planning for
Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.
Before you go
The small practical things.Visiting with respect
These are living places of worship, not museums.- Walk around stupas, monasteries and temples clockwise.
- Ask before photographing people at prayer, or inside temples; some do not allow it.
- Take off your shoes where others do, and dress with shoulders and knees covered at holy places.
- In the parks, keep quiet and keep your distance from animals; follow the nature guide.
Staying away: 3 nights
You pay me only my guide fee. Rooms and meals are paid at what they actually cost, with nothing added by me.Where your money goes
Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide fee | Rujan Neupane | My day rate × 4 days | For your whole private group |
| Car and driver | The driver or car company | Agreed before the tour | Paid at cost |
| Entry tickets and park fees | Paid at the gate | Official price | See Entrance fees |
| Rooms and meals | The hotels, lodges and homestays | What they charge | You pay them directly, or I book at their price |
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Photo notes
From a guide who is also a photographer.The places in detail
The history and stories behind what you will see.The three royal cities
Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur were once the capitals of three kingdoms ruled by the Malla kings. Their palace squares, together with Swayambhu, Boudhanath, Pashupatinath and Changu Narayan, make up the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site (see UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Nepal). Changu Narayan, on a hill above Bhaktapur, holds some of the oldest temple art in the valley.
Entry tickets and park fees are at the official price: see entrance fees in Nepal.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you go
What I would read first, from my own guides and tours.Guides to read first
Frequently asked questions
Why sleep in each city?
So you see them at dawn and dusk, when the day-trippers have gone.
Is the walk to Bhaktapur hard?
No, mostly downhill through villages, about 2 to 3 hours.
Can we add Pashupatinath?
Yes, on the last day or as an evening.
Is the guide fee for each person?
No. One rate for your whole private group of 1 to 5 people.
Can you book everything?
If you want, I book the car, rooms and flights at their own price and send you every price by email first. You can also book them yourself.
When is best?
October to April.
Reviews from guests who toured with me are published automatically, exactly as they wrote them. Reviews sent through the open form are checked for spam only.
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- +977 984-3808583
- Phone
- +977 984-3808583
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More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.
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