Photo: Ankitrimal, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons
About
Eight days to the great Hindu temples of Nepal, at the pace of a pilgrim rather than a tourist. The evening aarti at Pashupatinath on the Bagmati; Budhanilkantha's sleeping Vishnu; the cable car up to Manakamana, the wish-fulfilling goddess; and Muktinath, high in Mustang, with its 108 water spouts and the flame that burns from water and stone, holy to Hindus and Buddhists alike. Time for darshan and for prayer, and someone who knows each temple's customs and days.
A private journey
Your holiday in Nepal, travelled your way
Namaste, and welcome to Nepal. A week or two here can feel like a race when you are one of thirty on a coach. With your own guide it becomes a journey: the same face every morning, a car that stops for tea in a village, a slow day when you need one, and someone who knows the country and wants you to feel at home in it. I would like you to go home feeling that Nepal was kind to you.
- Time for darshan
- We wait for your turn in the queue and stay as long as your prayers take.
- The right days
- I plan around the temples' busy days and the festival calendar.
- Care at Muktinath
- We sleep lower at Jomsom and go up only for the visit.
- Just you, and the people you came with
- No strangers to wait for, no group to keep up with.
- The same guide from the first day to the last
- You never start again with someone new.
- Rest days when you want them
- We add one, or move the plan, whenever you need it.
- The country between the places
- Villages, rivers and roadside tea, not only the famous sights.
- Someone to look after the details
- Tickets, permits, rooms and roads are arranged for you, so your mind is free.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Along the way
What this day is known for.
- The evening aarti at Pashupatinath on the Bagmati river
- Budhanilkantha's sleeping Vishnu and Changu Narayan, one of Nepal's oldest temples
- The cable car up to Manakamana
- Muktinath at about 3,700 mthe 108 water spouts and the eternal flame
- Kagbeni and the Kali Gandaki, where saligram stones are found
- Devghat, the meeting of two holy rivers
Day by day, night by night
Where we go, how long on the road, and where you sleep each night.| Day | The day | On the road | The night | Room + meals |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Day 1 · Arrive, the evening aarti at PashupatinathI meet you at the airport or your hotel. In the evening, the aarti on the banks of the Bagmati at Pashupatinath. Only Hindus may enter the main temple; everyone can watch from the riverside.
|
About 30 minutes from the airport | Kathmandu | Pashupatinath entry for non-Hindus |
| Day 2 | Day 2 · Budhanilkantha, Changu Narayan and GuhyeshwariBudhanilkantha's great stone Vishnu lying in his pool, Changu Narayan on its hill, and Guhyeshwari by the Bagmati, one of the Shakti Peethas.
|
Short drives in the valley | Kathmandu | Entry tickets |
| Day 3 | Day 3 · Manakamana, on to PokharaWest to Kurintar and the cable car up to Manakamana, the temple of the goddess who grants wishes. Then on to Pokhara.
|
About 3 hours to Kurintar; 10 minutes by cable car; 3 hours on to Pokhara | Pokhara | Cable car; offerings |
| Day 4 | Day 4 · Fly to Jomsom, MuktinathAn early flight between the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges to Jomsom, then by jeep up to Muktinath: the 108 spouts, the two ponds, the flame of Jwala Mai. Back down through Kagbeni to sleep at Jomsom.
|
20 minutes by plane; about 1.5 hours by jeep each way | Jomsom (about 2,700 m) | Flight; jeep; Annapurna Conservation Area permit |
| Day 5 | Day 5 · Back to PokharaThe morning flight back to Pokhara. In the afternoon Bindhyabasini temple and a boat to Tal Barahi on Phewa Lake.
|
20 minutes by plane | Pokhara | Flight; boat |
| Day 6 | Day 6 · Devghat and ChitwanDown to Devghat, where the Kali Gandaki and the Trishuli meet, a place of pilgrimage and of last years for many elders. On to Bharatpur for the night.
|
About 4 to 5 hours by car | Bharatpur or Sauraha | Car |
| Day 7 | Day 7 · Fly to Kathmandu, DakshinkaliA short flight back to Kathmandu. In the afternoon, Dakshinkali in its forest gorge south of the valley, if you wish.
|
25 minutes by plane; 1 hour to Dakshinkali | Kathmandu | Flight; car |
| Day 8 | Day 8 · DepartureA last visit to Pashupatinath in the morning if you like, then the airport.
|
— |
Is this tour for you?
Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before booking.- Jomsom flights are often delayed or cancelled by wind or cloud; I keep a way to drive if needed, but it takes a long day.
- Only Hindus may enter the inner temple at Pashupatinath.
- Animal offerings are part of worship at Dakshinkali and Manakamana on some days; it can be hard to watch.
- Queues at Manakamana are long on Saturdays and festival days.
More about this tour
Best time to go
Best from March to May and from September to November.- HazyJAN
- GoodFEB
- BestMAR
- BestAPR
- GoodMAY
- RainJUN
- RainJUL
- RainAUG
- GoodSEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- GoodDEC
Muktinath is cold in winter and snow can close the road from December to February. In the monsoon the Jomsom flights are delayed more often.
Time of day
Festivals worth planning for
Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.
Before you go
The small practical things.Visiting with respect
These are living places of worship, not museums.- Follow the temple's rules on who may enter and what may be carried in; leather is not allowed in some.
- Walk around temples clockwise; remove your shoes where asked.
- Ask before photographing people at prayer and at the cremation ghats; never photograph the dead.
- Dress with shoulders and knees covered.
Staying away: 7 nights
You pay me only my guide fee. Rooms and meals are paid at what they actually cost, with nothing added by me.Where your money goes
Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide fee | Rujan Neupane | My day rate × 8 days, plus my overnight allowance × 4 nights away from Kathmandu | For your whole private group |
| Car and driver | The driver or car company | Agreed before the tour | Paid at cost |
| Flights Pokhara–Jomsom and back, Bharatpur–Kathmandu | The airlines | Their prices | Paid at cost |
| Jeep Jomsom–Muktinath | The jeep owners | Their fixed price | Paid at cost |
| Annapurna Conservation Area permit | The permit office | Official price | For Muktinath |
| Cable car | Manakamana Cable Car | Its price | Paid at the station |
| Offerings | The temples | As you wish | Never expected |
| Entry tickets and park fees | Paid at the gate | Official price | See Entrance fees |
| Rooms and meals | The hotels, lodges and homestays | What they charge | You pay them directly, or I book at their price |
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Photo notes
From a guide who is also a photographer.The places in detail
The history and stories behind what you will see.The great Hindu temples of Nepal
Nepal’s holiest Hindu places lie far apart: Pashupatinath in Kathmandu, Manakamana on its hilltop above the Trishuli, and Muktinath high in Mustang. This route links them with short flights where the road is long.
Pashupatinath
Nepal’s most sacred temple of Shiva, on the Bagmati river, part of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site (see UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Nepal). Only Hindus may enter the main temple; the riverside, the ghats and the evening aarti are open to all.
Muktinath
A temple of Vishnu at about 3,700 m in Mustang, holy also to Buddhists. Pilgrims bathe under its 108 water spouts; nearby, a natural gas flame burns over water and stone.
Entry tickets are at the official price: see entrance fees in Nepal.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you go
What I would read first, from my own guides and tours.Guides to read first
Frequently asked questions
Can non-Hindus come?
Yes. Everyone is welcome at the riverside at Pashupatinath and at most temples on this route; the inner temple at Pashupatinath is for Hindus only.
Is Muktinath too high?
It is at about 3,700 m. We fly to Jomsom, go up by jeep for the visit and sleep lower. Most people manage well; tell me about any heart or lung problems.
What if the Jomsom flight is cancelled?
We wait a day, or drive: about 8 to 10 hours on a rough road. A spare day in the plan helps.
Can we add Janakpur?
Yes. Janakpur, Sita's city, adds two days with flights.
Is the guide fee for each person?
No. One rate for your whole private group of 1 to 5 people.
Can we join a puja?
Yes. I help you arrange a puja with the temple priests at their usual offering.
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