Photo: Charles J. Sharp, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
About
Ten winter days for birds, from the hills to the plains. Phulchowki, the forested hill on the rim of the Kathmandu Valley, for laughingthrushes, sunbirds and the birds of the middle hills; Koshi Tappu, the great wetland of the east, for wintering ducks, geese, storks and waders; and Chitwan, for the forest and grassland birds of the lowlands, hornbills and kingfishers along the rivers. Dawns in the field with local nature guides who know every call, and slow days between.
A private tour
A few days that belong to you
Namaste, and welcome. Just your group, your own car and me. You wake in a quiet guest house, walk when the light is good, and rest when you want to. Nobody hurries you to the next stop on someone else's timetable. For these few days, the road is yours.
- The birds' hours, not a timetable
- Dawn starts, midday rests, and as long at a good spot as you like.
- Three worlds in ten days
- Hill forest, wetland and lowland forest.
- Guides who know the calls
- Local nature guides lead in the field; I look after the rest.
- Your own car and driver
- It stops for a view, a tea shop or a photo whenever you ask.
- Mornings without an alarm
- Sunrise if you want it, a slow breakfast if you do not.
- One person to ask
- The same guide all the way: for the history, the food, the road and anything that goes wrong.
- Quiet places to sleep
- Small guest houses, chosen for calm rather than size.
- The plan bends to you
- A place left out, a longer stay, a slower day: we decide together as we go.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Along the way
What this day is known for.
- Phulchowki's oak and rhododendron forest above the valley
- Koshi Tappuwintering ducks and geese, storks and waders
- Sunbirds, laughingthrushes and minivets in the hills
- Hornbills, kingfishers and parakeets in Chitwan
- Rhinos and the wild water buffalo along the way
Day by day, night by night
Where we go, how long on the road, and where you sleep each night.| Day | The day | On the road | The night | Room + meals |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Day 1 · Arrive in KathmanduI meet you at the airport or your hotel.
|
About 30 minutes from the airport | Kathmandu | Dinner |
| Day 2 | Day 2 · PhulchowkiBefore dawn to Godawari and up the forest road of Phulchowki with a local bird guide; the botanical garden at Godawari in the afternoon.
|
About 1 hour by car each way | Kathmandu | Bird guide at their price; garden entry |
| Day 3 | Day 3 · Fly east to Koshi TappuA short flight to Biratnagar and the drive to a camp by the reserve. The embankment at dusk.
|
About 40 minutes by plane; about 1.5 hours by car | Koshi Tappu, a camp by the reserve | Flight; car |
| Day 4 | Day 4 · Koshi Tappu by boatDawn on the river with the reserve's nature guide.
|
Koshi Tappu | Reserve entry; boat and nature guide at their prices | |
| Day 5 | Day 5 · The barrage and the marshesThe Koshi barrage and the ponds and marshes around the reserve.
|
Short drives | Koshi Tappu | Nature guide at their price |
| Day 6 | Day 6 · West to ChitwanThe long road west along the plains to Sauraha.
|
7 to 8 hours by car | Sauraha, by Chitwan National Park | Car |
| Day 7 | Day 7 · Chitwan's forestWith the park's licensed nature guide: the forest and the river by canoe.
|
Sauraha | Park entry; canoe and nature guide at their prices | |
| Day 8 | Day 8 · Lakes and grasslandThe community forest and the lakes of Bis Hajar Tal, and the grassland at dusk.
|
Short drives | Sauraha | Nature guide at their price |
| Day 9 | Day 9 · Fly back to KathmanduA last dawn walk, then the short flight from Bharatpur to Kathmandu.
|
30 minutes by car; 25 minutes by plane | Kathmandu | Flight |
| Day 10 | Day 10 · DepartureA free morning before your flight home.
|
— |
Is this tour for you?
Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before booking.- Winter fog on the plains in the morning; it lifts by mid-morning.
- Phulchowki's forest road is steep and rough higher up.
- One long road day across the plains.
- Not a full birding expedition: for hard-core listers, a specialist bird guide every day is better.
More about this tour
Best time to go
November to March.- BestJAN
- BestFEB
- GoodMAR
- HazyAPR
- HazyMAY
- RainJUN
- RainJUL
- RainAUG
- RainSEP
- GoodOCT
- GoodNOV
- BestDEC
In December and January the lowlands are often foggy and cold in the morning; from April to early June they are very hot. In the monsoon roads are slower and parts of the parks close.
Time of day
Festivals worth planning for
Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.
Before you go
The small practical things.Visiting with respect
These are living places of worship, not museums.- Walk around stupas, monasteries and temples clockwise.
- Ask before photographing people at prayer, or inside temples; some do not allow it.
- Take off your shoes where others do, and dress with shoulders and knees covered at holy places.
- In the parks, keep quiet and keep your distance from animals; follow the nature guide.
Staying away: 9 nights
You pay me only my guide fee. Rooms and meals are paid at what they actually cost, with nothing added by me.Where your money goes
Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide fee | Rujan Neupane | My day rate × 10 days, plus my overnight allowance × 6 nights away from Kathmandu | For your whole private group |
| Car and driver | The driver or car company | Agreed before the tour | Paid at cost |
| Flights Kathmandu–Biratnagar and Bharatpur–Kathmandu | The airlines | Their prices | Paid at cost |
| Bird and nature guides | Local and park guides | Their prices | Paid to them |
| Entry tickets and park fees | Paid at the gate | Official price | See Entrance fees |
| Rooms and meals | The hotels, lodges and homestays | What they charge | You pay them directly, or I book at their price |
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Photo notes
From a guide who is also a photographer.The places in detail
The history and stories behind what you will see.Three habitats in ten days
Phulchowki is the highest hill on the rim of the Kathmandu Valley, with oak and rhododendron forest that is one of the best birding places near the city. Koshi Tappu is a Ramsar wetland on the Sapta Koshi, full of wintering waterbirds. Chitwan is a World Heritage national park of forest, grassland and rivers (see UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Nepal).
Entry tickets and park fees are at the official price: see entrance fees in Nepal.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you go
What I would read first, from my own guides and tours.Guides to read first
Frequently asked questions
Do you know the birds yourself?
I know many, but local bird guides and the parks' nature guides lead in the field: they know every call.
Is it for beginners?
Yes. The guides help you find and name the birds.
Can we add Bardiya?
Yes, by flying from Bharatpur to Nepalgunj; it adds three or four days.
Is the guide fee for each person?
No. One rate for your whole private group of 1 to 5 people.
Can you book everything?
If you want, I book the car, rooms and flights at their own price and send you every price by email first. You can also book them yourself.
Why winter?
Winter brings the birds of the north to the wetlands, and the hills have clear mornings.
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- +977 984-3808583
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- +977 984-3808583
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