A fire-tailed sunbird at Phulchowki

Winter Birds of Nepal

Round trip Chitwan

Photo: Charles J. Sharp, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

About

Ten winter days for birds, from the hills to the plains. Phulchowki, the forested hill on the rim of the Kathmandu Valley, for laughingthrushes, sunbirds and the birds of the middle hills; Koshi Tappu, the great wetland of the east, for wintering ducks, geese, storks and waders; and Chitwan, for the forest and grassland birds of the lowlands, hornbills and kingfishers along the rivers. Dawns in the field with local nature guides who know every call, and slow days between.

A private tour

A few days that belong to you

Namaste, and welcome. Just your group, your own car and me. You wake in a quiet guest house, walk when the light is good, and rest when you want to. Nobody hurries you to the next stop on someone else's timetable. For these few days, the road is yours.

The birds' hours, not a timetable
Dawn starts, midday rests, and as long at a good spot as you like.
Three worlds in ten days
Hill forest, wetland and lowland forest.
Guides who know the calls
Local nature guides lead in the field; I look after the rest.
Your own car and driver
It stops for a view, a tea shop or a photo whenever you ask.
Mornings without an alarm
Sunrise if you want it, a slow breakfast if you do not.
One person to ask
The same guide all the way: for the history, the food, the road and anything that goes wrong.
Quiet places to sleep
Small guest houses, chosen for calm rather than size.
The plan bends to you
A place left out, a longer stay, a slower day: we decide together as we go.

With warmth, Rujan Neupane

Along the way

What this day is known for.

  1. Phulchowki's oak and rhododendron forest above the valley
  2. Koshi Tappuwintering ducks and geese, storks and waders
  3. Sunbirds, laughingthrushes and minivets in the hills
  4. Hornbills, kingfishers and parakeets in Chitwan
  5. Rhinos and the wild water buffalo along the way
Jump to

Day by day, night by night

Where we go, how long on the road, and where you sleep each night.
Kathmandu2 NIGHTS · 1 NIGHTKoshi Tappu3 NIGHTSChitwan (Sauraha)3 NIGHTS
DayThe dayOn the roadThe nightRoom + meals
Day 1 Day 1 · Arrive in KathmanduI meet you at the airport or your hotel.
  • Kathmandu
About 30 minutes from the airport Kathmandu Dinner
Day 2 Day 2 · PhulchowkiBefore dawn to Godawari and up the forest road of Phulchowki with a local bird guide; the botanical garden at Godawari in the afternoon.
  • Godawari
  • Phulchowki
About 1 hour by car each way Kathmandu Bird guide at their price; garden entry
Day 3 Day 3 · Fly east to Koshi TappuA short flight to Biratnagar and the drive to a camp by the reserve. The embankment at dusk.
  • Biratnagar
  • Koshi Tappu
About 40 minutes by plane; about 1.5 hours by car Koshi Tappu, a camp by the reserve Flight; car
Day 4 Day 4 · Koshi Tappu by boatDawn on the river with the reserve's nature guide.
  • Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve
Koshi Tappu Reserve entry; boat and nature guide at their prices
Day 5 Day 5 · The barrage and the marshesThe Koshi barrage and the ponds and marshes around the reserve.
  • Koshi barrage
Short drives Koshi Tappu Nature guide at their price
Day 6 Day 6 · West to ChitwanThe long road west along the plains to Sauraha.
  • Koshi Tappu
  • Sauraha
7 to 8 hours by car Sauraha, by Chitwan National Park Car
Day 7 Day 7 · Chitwan's forestWith the park's licensed nature guide: the forest and the river by canoe.
  • Chitwan National Park
  • Rapti river
Sauraha Park entry; canoe and nature guide at their prices
Day 8 Day 8 · Lakes and grasslandThe community forest and the lakes of Bis Hajar Tal, and the grassland at dusk.
  • Bis Hajar Tal
  • Chitwan National Park
Short drives Sauraha Nature guide at their price
Day 9 Day 9 · Fly back to KathmanduA last dawn walk, then the short flight from Bharatpur to Kathmandu.
  • Sauraha
  • Bharatpur
  • Kathmandu
30 minutes by car; 25 minutes by plane Kathmandu Flight
Day 10 Day 10 · DepartureA free morning before your flight home.
  • Kathmandu
—
Lodging and mealsAt actual cost, per night, as the lodges charge. Not part of the guide fee; nothing added.
Change the loopAdd a night, drop a stop, end somewhere else: tell me, and I re-plan it with you.
The paceSlow. Dawn birding, midday rest, and one long road day.

Is this tour for you?

Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.
BirdwatchersBeginners and keen birders alike.
PhotographersBring a long lens.
ComfortSimple camps at Koshi Tappu; lodges in Chitwan.
WalkingForest roads and flat paths.

Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me

The honest downsides

What I'd want to know before booking.
  • Winter fog on the plains in the morning; it lifts by mid-morning.
  • Phulchowki's forest road is steep and rough higher up.
  • One long road day across the plains.
  • Not a full birding expedition: for hard-core listers, a specialist bird guide every day is better.

Photos from this tour

More about this tour

Best time to go

November to March.
  1. BestJAN
  2. BestFEB
  3. GoodMAR
  4. HazyAPR
  5. HazyMAY
  6. RainJUN
  7. RainJUL
  8. RainAUG
  9. RainSEP
  10. GoodOCT
  11. GoodNOV
  12. BestDEC
Best: clear and mild Good: cool mornings or some haze Warm, hazy and dusty Monsoon: afternoon rain

In December and January the lowlands are often foggy and cold in the morning; from April to early June they are very hot. In the monsoon roads are slower and parts of the parks close.

Time of day

DawnEvery day, in the field.
MiddayRest.
Late afternoonThe second birding window.

Festivals worth planning for

ChhathOctober or November in the plains.
Maghe SankrantiMid-January.

Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.

Before you go

The small practical things.
VisaMost visitors get a visa on arrival at Kathmandu airport; check the rules for your passport before you fly.
LayersWarm layers for early mornings and evenings, light clothes for the lowlands.
ShoesComfortable walking shoes; sandals for the hotel.
CashNepali rupees in small notes for tea, tips, tickets and donations; cards work only in larger hotels.
Binoculars and a long lensBring your own if you can.
ColoursGreens and browns in the parks, not white or bright colours.

Visiting with respect

These are living places of worship, not museums.
  • Walk around stupas, monasteries and temples clockwise.
  • Ask before photographing people at prayer, or inside temples; some do not allow it.
  • Take off your shoes where others do, and dress with shoulders and knees covered at holy places.
  • In the parks, keep quiet and keep your distance from animals; follow the nature guide.

Staying away: 9 nights

You pay me only my guide fee. Rooms and meals are paid at what they actually cost, with nothing added by me.
LodgingPaid at cost, as the lodge charges
MealsPaid at cost, where we eat

Where your money goes

Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.
WhatWho receives itAmountNote
Guide feeRujan NeupaneMy day rate × 10 days, plus my overnight allowance × 6 nights away from KathmanduFor your whole private group
Car and driverThe driver or car companyAgreed before the tourPaid at cost
Flights Kathmandu–Biratnagar and Bharatpur–KathmanduThe airlinesTheir pricesPaid at cost
Bird and nature guidesLocal and park guidesTheir pricesPaid to them
Entry tickets and park feesPaid at the gateOfficial priceSee Entrance fees
Rooms and mealsThe hotels, lodges and homestaysWhat they chargeYou pay them directly, or I book at their price

I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.

Photo notes

From a guide who is also a photographer.
PhulchowkiSmall birds in the forest; a fast lens.
KoshiWaterbirds after the fog.
ChitwanKingfishers from the canoe.

The places in detail

The history and stories behind what you will see.

Three habitats in ten days

Phulchowki is the highest hill on the rim of the Kathmandu Valley, with oak and rhododendron forest that is one of the best birding places near the city. Koshi Tappu is a Ramsar wetland on the Sapta Koshi, full of wintering waterbirds. Chitwan is a World Heritage national park of forest, grassland and rivers (see UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Nepal).

Entry tickets and park fees are at the official price: see entrance fees in Nepal.

My promises

Written down, so you can hold me to them.
  • No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
  • Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
  • Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
  • Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.

Frequently asked questions

Do you know the birds yourself?

I know many, but local bird guides and the parks' nature guides lead in the field: they know every call.

Is it for beginners?

Yes. The guides help you find and name the birds.

Can we add Bardiya?

Yes, by flying from Bharatpur to Nepalgunj; it adds three or four days.

Is the guide fee for each person?

No. One rate for your whole private group of 1 to 5 people.

Can you book everything?

If you want, I book the car, rooms and flights at their own price and send you every price by email first. You can also book them yourself.

Why winter?

Winter brings the birds of the north to the wetlands, and the hills have clear mornings.

Reviews from guests who toured with me are published automatically, exactly as they wrote them. Reviews sent through the open form are checked for spam only.

Reviews

0 reviews

No reviews yet. Be the first to share how your tour went.

Plan it with me

Tell me how you'd like to spend the day. I'll plan the rest around you.

Rujan NeupaneTrekking & Tour Guide · Kathmandu

Send your date, group size and anything you'd like to see or skip, whichever way suits you.

Know your date already? Book me as your guide for this tour

More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.

Verified credentials

My licences and training papers. Open any file to see the original.

Guide Association Membership

Some information on this page comes from Department of Immigration, Nepal · Nepal Tourism Board · Ramsar: Koshi Tappu · UNESCO: Chitwan National Park.

Written 13 October 2026