Shuklaphanta

About

Shuklaphanta is the park at the far western edge of Nepal, by the Mahakali river. Its heart is Shukla Phanta, the largest open grassland in the country, where the biggest herd of swamp deer in the world grazes in the morning light. Around it are forest lakes with viewing towers, Rani Tal and Salgaudi Tal, a few rhinos brought from Chitwan, a small herd of blackbuck, sometimes wild elephants, and grassland birds such as the rare Bengal florican. Very few visitors come this far. Three nights by the park give time for two dawns on the grassland and quiet hours at the lakes. Inside the park we go with its licensed nature guides; I look after the flights, the car, the rooms and the plan.

A private tour

A few days that belong to you

Namaste, and welcome. Just your group, your own car and me. You wake in a quiet guest house, walk when the light is good, and rest when you want to. Nobody hurries you to the next stop on someone else's timetable. For these few days, the road is yours.

Two dawns on the grassland
The herds are best in the first hours of light.
Rest at midday
The plains are hot after mid-morning; we rest and go out again late.
The plan can change
If the deer or the birds are good in one place, we go back.
Your own car and driver
It stops for a view, a tea shop or a photo whenever you ask.
Mornings without an alarm
Sunrise if you want it, a slow breakfast if you do not.
One person to ask
The same guide all the way: for the history, the food, the road and anything that goes wrong.
Quiet places to sleep
Small guest houses, chosen for calm rather than size.
The plan bends to you
A place left out, a longer stay, a slower day: we decide together as we go.

With warmth, Rujan Neupane

Along the way

What this day is known for.

  1. The world's largest herd of swamp deer on Shukla Phanta
  2. The largest open grassland in Nepal
  3. Rani Tal and Salgaudi Tal from the viewing towers
  4. Grassland birds, including the rare Bengal florican
  5. Rhinos and blackbuck, and sometimes wild elephants
  6. Rana Tharu villages around the park
Jump to

Day by day, night by night

Where we go, how long on the road, and where you sleep each night.
KathmanduSTART · ENDShuklaphanta, near Mahendranagar3 NIGHTS
DayThe dayOn the roadThe nightRoom + meals
Day 1 Day 1 · Fly west to ShuklaphantaA flight to Dhangadhi, then by car west to the edge of the park near Mahendranagar (Bhimdatta). An evening walk in a Rana Tharu village.
  • Kathmandu
  • Dhangadhi
  • Mahendranagar
About 1 hour 10 minutes by plane; 1.5 to 2 hours by car Near Shuklaphanta, a simple lodge or homestay Flight; car
Day 2 Day 2 · Dawn on Shukla PhantaInto the park at first light by jeep with the park's licensed nature guide, out to the great grassland for the swamp deer. Then the forest lake of Rani Tal and its tower. Rest at midday; late in the afternoon, birds at Salgaudi Tal.
  • Shuklaphanta National Park
  • Shukla Phanta
  • Rani Tal
  • Salgaudi Tal
Near Shuklaphanta Park entry; jeep and nature guide at their prices
Day 3 Day 3 · On foot, and the far cornersA morning walk with the nature guides along the edge of the grassland, for birds and deer. In the afternoon by jeep to Singpur Phanta, where wild elephants sometimes come, and the side of the park where the blackbuck graze.
  • Shuklaphanta National Park
  • Singpur Phanta
Near Shuklaphanta Park entry; jeep and nature guides at their prices
Day 4 Day 4 · A last dawn, then homeOne more early hour on the grassland if you want it, then by car to Dhangadhi and the flight to Kathmandu.
  • Shuklaphanta National Park
  • Dhangadhi
  • Kathmandu
1.5 to 2 hours by car; about 1 hour 10 minutes by plane Car; flight
Lodging and mealsAt actual cost, per night, as the lodges charge. Not part of the guide fee; nothing added.
Change the loopAdd a night, drop a stop, end somewhere else: tell me, and I re-plan it with you.
The pacePatient. Out at dawn and in the late afternoon, rest in the middle of the day.

Is this tour for you?

Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.
QuietYou want a park with very few other visitors.
WildlifeSwamp deer, grassland birds, rhinos, blackbuck.
PhotographersHerds in low morning light, lakes from the towers.
A short tripFour days, with flights both ways.

Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me

The honest downsides

What I'd want to know before booking.
  • Places to stay near the park are few and simple.
  • Tigers and leopards live here but are rarely seen.
  • No walking in the park between sunset and sunrise.
  • The plains are very hot from April to June, and parts of the park close in the monsoon.
  • Flights to Dhangadhi are fewer than to other towns; dates can move.

More about this tour

Best time to go

Best from January to April, when the grass is short and the herds are large.
  1. BestJAN
  2. BestFEB
  3. BestMAR
  4. BestAPR
  5. HazyMAY
  6. RainJUN
  7. RainJUL
  8. RainAUG
  9. RainSEP
  10. GoodOCT
  11. GoodNOV
  12. GoodDEC
Best: clear and mild Good: cool mornings or some haze Warm, hazy and dusty Monsoon: afternoon rain

October to December is good too, but the grass is still tall after the monsoon. In December and January the lowlands are often foggy and cold in the morning; from April to early June they are very hot. In the monsoon roads are slower and parts of the parks close.

Time of day

DawnThe deer on the grassland.
MiddayRest.
Late afternoonBirds at the lakes.

Festivals worth planning for

Maghe SankrantiMid-January: the great Tharu festival.
HoliThe full moon of Falgun, usually in March: the Rana Tharu villages celebrate it for several days.

Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.

Before you go

The small practical things.
VisaMost visitors get a visa on arrival at Kathmandu airport; check the rules for your passport before you fly.
LayersWarm layers for early mornings and evenings, light clothes for the lowlands.
ShoesComfortable walking shoes; sandals for the hotel.
CashNepali rupees in small notes for tea, tips, tickets and donations; cards work only in larger hotels.
Binoculars and a long lensBring your own if you can.
ColoursGreens and browns in the parks, not white or bright colours.

Visiting with respect

These are living places of worship, not museums.
  • Walk around stupas, monasteries and temples clockwise.
  • Ask before photographing people at prayer, or inside temples; some do not allow it.
  • Take off your shoes where others do, and dress with shoulders and knees covered at holy places.
  • In the parks, keep quiet and keep your distance from animals; follow the nature guide.
  • No drones in the park without the park's written permission.

Staying away: 3 nights

You pay me only my guide fee. Rooms and meals are paid at what they actually cost, with nothing added by me.
LodgingPaid at cost, as the lodge charges
MealsPaid at cost, where we eat

Where your money goes

Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.
WhatWho receives itAmountNote
Guide feeRujan NeupaneMy day rate × 4 days, plus my overnight allowance × 3 nights away from KathmanduFor your whole private group
Flights Kathmandu–Dhangadhi and backThe airlineIts pricePaid at cost
Car and driverThe driver or car companyAgreed before the tourPaid at cost
Jeeps, canoes, boats and nature guides in the parkThe park's guides and operatorsTheir pricesPaid to them
Entry tickets and park feesPaid at the gateOfficial priceSee Entrance fees
Rooms and mealsThe hotels, lodges and homestaysWhat they chargeYou pay them directly, or I book at their price

I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.

Photo notes

From a guide who is also a photographer.
Long lens400 mm or more for the herds.
The towersA wider lens for the lakes.
Heat hazeAfter mid-morning in spring: shoot early.

The places in detail

The history and stories behind what you will see.

Shuklaphanta National Park

Shuklaphanta lies in Kanchanpur, at the far western edge of Nepal, between the Mahakali river and the first hills. It began as a hunting reserve, became a wildlife reserve in 1976 to protect the swamp deer, and a national park in 2017. Its open grasslands, the phantas, hold the largest herd of swamp deer known in the world; Shukla Phanta itself is the largest continuous grassland in Nepal. The park also has forest lakes, Rani Tal and Salgaudi Tal with their viewing towers, a few rhinos brought from Chitwan, a small herd of blackbuck, tigers and leopards that are rarely seen, wild elephants that pass through in some seasons, and more than 400 kinds of birds.

Why four days

The herds are out in the first hours of the morning, and the light is best then too. Three nights give two full dawns on the grassland and time at the lakes, without rushing. Inside the park visitors go with the park’s licensed nature guides, and nobody walks in the park between sunset and sunrise.

More time in the far west

Shuklaphanta joins well with Bardiya, a few hours east by road: see the Far West in 7 days.

Entry tickets and park fees are at the official price: see entrance fees in Nepal.

My promises

Written down, so you can hold me to them.
  • No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
  • Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
  • Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
  • Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.

Frequently asked questions

Will we see the swamp deer?

Very likely from January to April, when the grass is short and the herds are large. From October to December the grass is still tall and they are harder to see.

Can we walk in the park?

Yes, with the park's licensed nature guides, and only between sunrise and sunset.

Will we see a tiger?

Tigers and leopards live in the park, but they are rarely seen. Come for the deer, the grassland and the birds.

Can we add Bardiya?

Yes. Bardiya is a few hours east by road; the two parks make a good week together.

Is the guide fee for each person?

No. One rate for your whole private group of 1 to 5 people.

Can you book everything?

If you want, I book the car, rooms and flights at their own price and send you every price by email first. You can also book them yourself.

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Plan it with me

Tell me how you'd like to spend the day. I'll plan the rest around you.

Rujan NeupaneTrekking & Tour Guide · Kathmandu

Send your date, group size and anything you'd like to see or skip, whichever way suits you.

Know your date already? Book me as your guide for this tour

More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.

Verified credentials

My licences and training papers. Open any file to see the original.

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