The Far West
Photo: Hopingyousuf, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
About
Seven days in the two quietest parks of Nepal, in the far west where few travellers go. Bardiya, with its tigers, elephants and the Karnali river; then Shuklaphanta, a park of great open grasslands, the 'phantas', where large herds of swamp deer graze and the lake of Rani Tal lies in the forest. Flights out and back, a few hours of road between the parks, and long quiet days with the parks' licensed nature guides.
A private tour
A few days that belong to you
Namaste, and welcome. Just your group, your own car and me. You wake in a quiet guest house, walk when the light is good, and rest when you want to. Nobody hurries you to the next stop on someone else's timetable. For these few days, the road is yours.
- Two parks almost to yourselves
- Bardiya and Shuklaphanta see very few visitors.
- Time for each
- Three nights in each park, so nothing is rushed.
- The road between
- A few hours across the plains, with stops when you want.
- Your own car and driver
- It stops for a view, a tea shop or a photo whenever you ask.
- Mornings without an alarm
- Sunrise if you want it, a slow breakfast if you do not.
- One person to ask
- The same guide all the way: for the history, the food, the road and anything that goes wrong.
- Quiet places to sleep
- Small guest houses, chosen for calm rather than size.
- The plan bends to you
- A place left out, a longer stay, a slower day: we decide together as we go.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Along the way
What this day is known for.
- Bardiyatigers, elephants and the Karnali river
- Shuklaphantaherds of swamp deer on open grassland
- Rani Tal, the forest lake of Shuklaphanta
- Grassland birds, including the rare Bengal florican
- Tharu villages of the far west
Day by day, night by night
Where we go, how long on the road, and where you sleep each night.| Day | The day | On the road | The night | Room + meals |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Day 1 · Fly west to BardiyaA flight to Nepalgunj and the drive to Thakurdwara at the edge of Bardiya.
|
About 1 hour by plane; 2.5 to 3 hours by car | Thakurdwara, a lodge by the park | Flight; car |
| Day 2 | Day 2 · Bardiya by jeepA full day by jeep with the park's licensed nature guide, to the Karnali.
|
Thakurdwara | Park entry; jeep and nature guide at their prices | |
| Day 3 | Day 3 · Bardiya on foot and by the riverA walking day with the nature guides and quiet hours by the river.
|
Thakurdwara | Nature guides at their price | |
| Day 4 | Day 4 · West to ShuklaphantaWest across the plains to the edge of Shuklaphanta National Park.
|
4 to 5 hours by car | Near Shuklaphanta, a simple lodge | Car |
| Day 5 | Day 5 · The grasslandsWith the park's nature guide, out to the open phantas for the herds of swamp deer, and to Rani Tal in the forest.
|
Near Shuklaphanta | Park entry; jeep and nature guide at their prices | |
| Day 6 | Day 6 · Shuklaphanta, slowlyAnother dawn on the grassland, birds by the lakes, and a quiet afternoon.
|
Near Shuklaphanta | Nature guide at their price | |
| Day 7 | Day 7 · Fly back to KathmanduTo Dhangadhi and the flight to Kathmandu.
|
1.5 to 2 hours by car; about 1 hour 10 minutes by plane | Car; flight |
Is this tour for you?
Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before booking.- Shuklaphanta has very few places to stay, all simple.
- A tiger is never certain.
- The plains are very hot from April to June; parts of the parks close in the monsoon.
- Flights to the far west are fewer; dates can move.
Photos from this tour
More about this tour
Best time to go
Best from October to April; February to April after the grass is cut.- GoodJAN
- BestFEB
- BestMAR
- BestAPR
- HazyMAY
- RainJUN
- RainJUL
- RainAUG
- RainSEP
- GoodOCT
- BestNOV
- GoodDEC
In December and January the lowlands are often foggy and cold in the morning; from April to early June they are very hot. In the monsoon roads are slower and parts of the parks close.
Time of day
Festivals worth planning for
Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.
Before you go
The small practical things.Visiting with respect
These are living places of worship, not museums.- Walk around stupas, monasteries and temples clockwise.
- Ask before photographing people at prayer, or inside temples; some do not allow it.
- Take off your shoes where others do, and dress with shoulders and knees covered at holy places.
- In the parks, keep quiet and keep your distance from animals; follow the nature guide.
Staying away: 6 nights
You pay me only my guide fee. Rooms and meals are paid at what they actually cost, with nothing added by me.Where your money goes
Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide fee | Rujan Neupane | My day rate × 7 days, plus my overnight allowance × 6 nights away from Kathmandu | For your whole private group |
| Flights Kathmandu–Nepalgunj and Dhangadhi–Kathmandu | The airlines | Their prices | Paid at cost |
| Car and driver | The driver or car company | Agreed before the tour | Paid at cost |
| Jeeps, canoes, boats and nature guides in the parks | The park's guides and operators | Their prices | Paid to them |
| Entry tickets and park fees | Paid at the gate | Official price | See Entrance fees |
| Rooms and meals | The hotels, lodges and homestays | What they charge | You pay them directly, or I book at their price |
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Photo notes
From a guide who is also a photographer.The places in detail
The history and stories behind what you will see.Two parks of the far west
Bardiya is the largest national park of Nepal’s lowlands, along the Karnali river, known for its tigers. Shuklaphanta, further west in Kanchanpur, is a park of wide grasslands, the phantas, with the largest herds of swamp deer in Nepal, the lake of Rani Tal and rare grassland birds. Both are entered with the parks’ licensed nature guides.
Entry tickets and park fees are at the official price: see entrance fees in Nepal.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you go
What I would read first, from my own guides and tours.Frequently asked questions
What is a phanta?
An open grassland in the forest. Shuklaphanta's are wide and open, which makes the deer easy to see.
Will we see swamp deer?
Almost always, in herds, from October to April.
Is the guide fee for each person?
No. One rate for your whole private group of 1 to 5 people.
Can you book everything?
If you want, I book the car, rooms and flights at their own price and send you every price by email first. You can also book them yourself.
Can we do only Bardiya?
Yes: see Bardiya in 5 Days.
Is it safe?
Yes, with the parks' nature guides, who know the animals and the rules.
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- +977 984-3808583
- Phone
- +977 984-3808583
Know your date already? Book me as your guide for this tour
More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.
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