Trekking in Nepal in autumn (September to November)

I’m Rujan, a licensed trekking guide living in Kathmandu. Autumn is the season most visitors choose, and for a good reason: after the monsoon rains wash the air, the mountains stand out sharp and clear against blue sky. It is also when the famous trails are at their busiest. Here is how the season really feels.

Month by month

September: the tail of the monsoon. The hills are deep green and the rivers full, but there is still rain, especially in the first half, and some cloud on the mountains. Late September can be lovely, and quieter than what follows.

October: the classic month. Settled weather, clear mornings, warm days in the middle hills and cold nights up high. It is also the busiest month on the Everest, Annapurna and Langtang trails, and the month of Dashain and often Tihar.

November: clear and dry, with colder nights and shorter days. The crowds thin in the second half. For many walkers, and for photographers, early to mid November is the sweet spot.

The festivals

Dashain and Tihar, the two biggest festivals of the year, usually fall in October or early November. Families travel home, buses and flights are full, and offices close for days. On the trail it is a warm time to be in the villages, but plan your travel days around the holidays. See the festivals that change travel plans.

Finding quiet in a busy season

• Go early or late: late September or the second half of November.
• Choose a side valley: Gokyo instead of the main Everest trail, Khopra or Mardi Himal instead of Poon Hill, Langtang’s upper valley instead of the busiest lodges.
• Walk a quieter region altogether: see quieter treks.
• Start early in the day: you reach the lodge before the groups, and the views are better in the morning anyway.

Booking ahead

In October the popular lodges fill up, and flights to Lukla and the far west are in demand. If you have fixed dates, decide your route and your domestic flights early. Keep a spare day or two at the end of the trip for flights that are delayed by weather.

What to pack for autumn

Warm layers for the evenings: above 4,000 m nights are below freezing from October, and colder in November. A good sleeping bag, a down jacket, sunglasses and sun cream for the bright days. My packing list has the details.

For the whole year, see the best time to trek in Nepal. If you want autumn without the crowds, write to me and I will suggest a quieter walk for your dates.