I’m Rujan, a licensed trekking guide living in Kathmandu. On one trek in Nepal you can walk in a T-shirt in the morning, through warm forest at 1,500 m, and sit in a down jacket that evening by a lodge stove at 4,000 m. The answer is not more clothes but the right few layers, worn and taken off as the day changes.
The layers
- Base layer. A light top that dries fast, synthetic or merino wool, never cotton next to the skin on cold days. Two are enough: one to walk in, one dry for the evening.
- Middle layer. A fleece or a light synthetic jacket for cool walking and evenings.
- Warm layer. A down or synthetic down jacket for evenings, mornings and passes. On high treks it is the most important thing you bring.
- Shell. A waterproof, windproof jacket. In the dry seasons you wear it mostly for wind on passes and ridges.
- Legs. Light trekking trousers; thermal leggings for cold nights and pass days; waterproof trousers if you trek in spring or the monsoon.
Hands, head and feet
- A warm hat and a sun hat; a buff for dust and cold air.
- Thin gloves and warm gloves or mittens for high days.
- Good walking socks, two or three pairs, and a warm pair for the night.
- Sunglasses that block glare; above the snow line they matter. See choosing trekking boots.
How to use them on the trail
- Start a little cold: you warm up in ten minutes of climbing.
- Take a layer off before you sweat, and put one on as soon as you stop.
- Keep the warm layer at the top of your pack, not at the bottom.
- Change into dry clothes as soon as you reach the lodge.
What changes by season
In autumn the days are clear and the nights cold; in spring the afternoons can bring cloud and showers; in winter everything is colder, especially above 3,500 m. See staying warm at night and the packing list.
You do not need to buy everything at home: much can be rented or bought in Kathmandu. See renting or buying gear in Kathmandu.
If you are not sure which suits you, write to me and tell me what you hope for. I will say honestly.
Rules change. If something here is out of date, please tell me and I will correct it.Tell me