Thecho, Chapagaun and Lele
About
South of Patan, the Kathmandu Valley turns back into farmland: rice and mustard fields, brick Newar villages on low ridges, and small temples in groves of old trees. This quiet day goes to three of them. Thecho, where families nail pots and pans to the temple of Brahmayani in memory of their dead; Chapagaun, with the temple of Bajrabarahi in its sacred forest; and Lele, at the green southern edge of the valley, with the great painted image of Tika Bhairav. Farm work, old festivals and very few visitors.
A private tour
Your own day, at your own pace
Namaste, and welcome. This is not a group tour; it is your day. Just you and the people you came with, and me as your guide. We start when you are ready, stop wherever something catches your eye, and sit in a courtyard for as long as you like. No one is waiting at a bus, and there is no list we have to finish. I would like you to leave feeling you met the city, not that you rushed through it.
- Your own start
- I meet you at your hotel at the time you choose.
- The plan can change
- If you want longer somewhere, we stay.
- No shopping stops
- We go to shops only when you ask.
- We start when you like
- Early for the quiet squares and the morning prayers, or after a slow breakfast. I pick you up at your hotel.
- Time for every question
- The gods on the temple struts, the festival in the street, the food on the corner. There is time for every answer.
- Space to just be there
- A cup of tea while the square wakes up. Often the best moments of a day are the ones nobody planned.
- The plan bends to you
- Tired, or curious about something else? We leave a place out, or stay longer.
- Only the shops you ask for
- We stop at a shop only if you want to.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Along the way
What this day is known for.
- Thecho, a Newar village on its ridge
- The pots on the walls of Brahmayani temple
- Bajrabarahi in its sacred forest
- The painted image of Tika Bhairav at Lele
- Rice and mustard fields
- Very few other visitors
The day, stop by stop
Times move with traffic and with you.-
8:30
Thecho
South of the ring road to Thecho: its lanes, mustard oil mills and the temple of Brahmayani.
- Thecho
-
10:15
Chapagaun
The old village and its squares, then a short walk to Bajrabarahi in its forest.
- Chapagaun
- Bajrabarahi temple
-
12:30
Lunch
A simple lunch in Chapagaun or on the road south.
- Chapagaun
-
13:30
Lele
The valley's green southern edge: Tika Bhairav, and the spring of Saraswati Kunda.
- Lele
- Tika Bhairav
-
15:00
Back to Kathmandu
The drive back north, about an hour.
- Your hotel
Is this tour for you?
Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before booking.- No famous sights: the charm is everyday life.
- Some of the old houses were lost in 2015 and replaced by concrete.
- Animal offerings are made at some temples on festival days.
- Little English is spoken; I translate.
More about this tour
Best time to go
October to March, when the fields are green or golden.- BestJAN
- BestFEB
- BestMAR
- GoodAPR
- HazyMAY
- RainJUN
- RainJUL
- RainAUG
- GoodSEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- BestDEC
From late March to May, and on some winter days, the valley is hazy and the mountains are hidden. In the monsoon (June to September) mornings are often clear and afternoons wet. In February the mustard fields are yellow.
Time of day
Festivals worth planning for
Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.
Before you go
The small practical things.Visiting with respect
These are living places of worship, not museums.- Walk around stupas, monasteries and temples clockwise.
- Ask before photographing people at prayer, or inside temples; some do not allow it.
- Take off your shoes where others do, and dress with shoulders and knees covered at holy places.
- In the parks, keep quiet and keep your distance from animals; follow the nature guide.
Where your money goes
Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide fee | Rujan Neupane | My day rate × 1 day | For your whole private group |
| Entry tickets | Paid at the gate | Official price | See Entrance fees |
| Car and driver | The driver | Agreed before the day | Paid at cost |
| Lunch and tea | The restaurants and tea shops | What they charge | You pay directly |
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Photo notes
From a guide who is also a photographer.The places in detail
The history and stories behind what you will see.Thecho
Thecho is a Newar village about 6 km south of Patan, founded in the 16th century. Families nail pots and pans to the walls of its temple of Brahmayani in memory of their dead. The village is known for its mustard oil, and for the chariot festival of Yomari Punhi in December.
Chapagaun and Lele
Chapagaun is an old village further south, with the temple of Bajrabarahi standing in a small sacred forest outside it. Lele, about 14 km from Patan at the southern edge of the valley, was an important place in Licchavi times; it has the shrine of Tika Bhairav and the spring of Saraswati Kunda.
Entry tickets and park fees are at the official price: see entrance fees in Nepal.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you go
What I would read first, from my own guides and tours.Guides to read first
Frequently asked questions
Is it far?
About an hour by car to Lele, less to Thecho.
Are there tickets?
No; small donations at temples if you wish.
Can we add Bungamati?
Yes, it is close to Thecho; it makes a long day.
Is the guide fee for each person?
No. One rate for your whole private group of 1 to 5 people.
Is it good for children?
Yes, short walks and farm life.
When is best?
October to March.
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- +977 984-3808583
- Phone
- +977 984-3808583
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More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.
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