Swayambhu at Dawn
Photo: Manishpangeni, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
About
Before the sun is up, the hill of Swayambhu is already moving. Tibetan grandmothers, Newar families and monks walk the kora, the circle around the foot of the hill, turning hundreds of prayer wheels and saying their prayers. This early walk joins them: once around the hill, past the three great statues of Buddha Park, then up the old eastern stairway to the stupa as the light reaches its eyes, and into the small monasteries where the morning puja is chanted. Back for breakfast with the city just waking up.
A private tour
Your own day, at your own pace
Namaste, and welcome. This is not a group tour; it is your day. Just you and the people you came with, and me as your guide. We start when you are ready, stop wherever something catches your eye, and sit in a courtyard for as long as you like. No one is waiting at a bus, and there is no list we have to finish. I would like you to leave feeling you met the city, not that you rushed through it.
- Your own start
- I meet you at your hotel at the time you choose.
- The plan can change
- If you want longer somewhere, we stay.
- No shopping stops
- We go to shops only when you ask.
- We start when you like
- Early for the quiet squares and the morning prayers, or after a slow breakfast. I pick you up at your hotel.
- Time for every question
- The gods on the temple struts, the festival in the street, the food on the corner. There is time for every answer.
- Space to just be there
- A cup of tea while the square wakes up. Often the best moments of a day are the ones nobody planned.
- The plan bends to you
- Tired, or curious about something else? We leave a place out, or stay longer.
- Only the shops you ask for
- We stop at a shop only if you want to.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Along the way
What this day is known for.
- The stupa as the first light reaches it
- The kora with Tibetan and Newar pilgrims
- Three great statues at Buddha Park
- The old eastern stairway
- Morning prayers in the monasteries
- The monkeys of the hill
The day, stop by stop
Times move with traffic and with you.-
6:00
The foot of the hill
We start at the foot of Swayambhu as the pilgrims gather.
- Swayambhu
-
6:15
The kora
Once around the hill with everyone else, turning the prayer wheels, past small shrines and butter-lamp houses.
- Swayambhu
-
7:00
Buddha Park
The three great statues: the Buddha, Chenrezig and Guru Rinpoche.
- Buddha Amideva Park
-
7:30
The eastern stairway
Up the old stone stairway to the stupa, slowly.
- Swayambhu Stupa
-
8:00
The stupa and the monasteries
The stupa in the morning light, the temples around it, and the morning prayers in a monastery.
- Swayambhu Stupa
-
9:00
The view
The valley from the hilltop, then down and back to your hotel.
- Your hotel
Is this tour for you?
Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before booking.- An early start, before 6:00 in summer.
- The eastern stairway is steep, with many steps.
- The monkeys snatch food and bags.
- Monasteries may not open their prayers to visitors every day.
Photos from this tour
More about this tour
Best time to go
Any time; clearest from October to February.- BestJAN
- BestFEB
- GoodMAR
- HazyAPR
- HazyMAY
- RainJUN
- RainJUL
- RainAUG
- GoodSEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- BestDEC
From late March to May, and on some winter days, the valley is hazy and the mountains are hidden. In the monsoon (June to September) mornings are often clear and afternoons wet.
Time of day
Festivals worth planning for
Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.
Before you go
The small practical things.Visiting with respect
These are living places of worship, not museums.- Walk around stupas, monasteries and temples clockwise.
- Ask before photographing people at prayer, or inside temples; some do not allow it.
- Take off your shoes where others do, and dress with shoulders and knees covered at holy places.
- In the parks, keep quiet and keep your distance from animals; follow the nature guide.
Where your money goes
Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide fee | Rujan Neupane | My day rate × 1 day | For your whole private group |
| Entry tickets | Paid at the gate | Official price | See Entrance fees |
| Car and driver | The driver | Agreed before the day | Paid at cost |
| Lunch and tea | The restaurants and tea shops | What they charge | You pay directly |
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Photo notes
From a guide who is also a photographer.The places in detail
The history and stories behind what you will see.Swayambhu
Swayambhu, on a hill west of Kathmandu, is one of the oldest Buddhist places in the valley and part of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site. Its stupa, with the painted eyes of the Buddha, is surrounded by temples, monasteries and shrines of both Buddhists and Hindus.
The kora and Buddha Park
A path with long rows of prayer wheels runs around the foot of the hill, and every morning people walk it clockwise. On its west side, Buddha Amideva Park holds three tall golden statues: the Buddha, about 67 feet high, with Chenrezig and Guru Rinpoche beside him.
Entry tickets and park fees are at the official price: see entrance fees in Nepal.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you go
What I would read first, from my own guides and tours.Guides to read first
Frequently asked questions
How early do we start?
About half an hour before sunrise, so earlier in summer.
Is the stairway hard?
It is steep; we go slowly. A road also reaches the top from the west.
Can we enter a monastery?
Often, during prayers, if they allow visitors that day.
Is the guide fee for each person?
No. One rate for your whole private group of 1 to 5 people.
Can we add Boudhanath?
Yes, Boudha at dusk the same day makes a full circle.
When is best?
Any morning; October to February for clear air.
Reviews from guests who toured with me are published automatically, exactly as they wrote them. Reviews sent through the open form are checked for spam only.
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- +977 984-3808583
- Phone
- +977 984-3808583
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More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.
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