Old Kathmandu on Foot
About
North of Durbar Square, old Kathmandu is a maze of lanes, markets and hidden courtyards called bahals, where Newar families have lived around their shrines for centuries. This morning walk goes slowly through them: the vegetable and spice market of Asan, the small stupa of Kathesimbhu, the great courtyard of Itum Bahal, the temple of the white Machhindranath at Jana Bahal, the toothache god of Bangemudha, and Indra Chowk, before ending at Durbar Square. Early, before the traffic, when the city is shopping and praying.
A private tour
Your own day, at your own pace
Namaste, and welcome. This is not a group tour; it is your day. Just you and the people you came with, and me as your guide. We start when you are ready, stop wherever something catches your eye, and sit in a courtyard for as long as you like. No one is waiting at a bus, and there is no list we have to finish. I would like you to leave feeling you met the city, not that you rushed through it.
- Your own start
- I meet you at your hotel at the time you choose.
- The plan can change
- If you want longer somewhere, we stay.
- No shopping stops
- We go to shops only when you ask.
- We start when you like
- Early for the quiet squares and the morning prayers, or after a slow breakfast. I pick you up at your hotel.
- Time for every question
- The gods on the temple struts, the festival in the street, the food on the corner. There is time for every answer.
- Space to just be there
- A cup of tea while the square wakes up. Often the best moments of a day are the ones nobody planned.
- The plan bends to you
- Tired, or curious about something else? We leave a place out, or stay longer.
- Only the shops you ask for
- We stop at a shop only if you want to.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Along the way
What this day is known for.
- Asan's morning market
- Itum Bahal, one of the oldest courtyards
- Kathesimbhu, a small Swayambhu in the city
- Seto Machhindranath at Jana Bahal
- The toothache god of Bangemudha
- Lanes most visitors walk past
The day, stop by stop
Times move with traffic and with you.-
7:30
Thamel's edge to Kathesimbhu
Out of Thamel into the old town and the small stupa of Kathesimbhu, in its courtyard.
- Kathesimbhu
-
8:15
Asan
The market crossroads at its busiest: vegetables, spices, rice, and the shrine of Annapurna in the middle.
- Asan
-
9:00
Seto Machhindranath
The temple of the white Machhindranath at Jana Bahal, with its courtyard of small shrines.
- Jana Bahal
- Seto Machhindranath
-
9:45
Itum Bahal and Kilagal
Through a low passage into one of the oldest and largest courtyards of the city.
- Itum Bahal
-
10:30
Bangemudha and Indra Chowk
The lump of wood full of coins for the toothache god, then the cloth and bead sellers of Indra Chowk.
- Bangemudha
- Indra Chowk
-
11:15
Durbar Square
We end at Kathmandu Durbar Square; stay longer, or go back for breakfast.
- Kathmandu Durbar Square
Is this tour for you?
Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before booking.- Motorbikes squeeze through even the narrowest lanes.
- The lanes are dusty and noisy by mid-morning.
- Some courtyards were damaged in 2015 and are still under repair.
- Durbar Square has a separate entry fee.
More about this tour
Best time to go
Pleasant from October to April.- BestJAN
- BestFEB
- GoodMAR
- HazyAPR
- HazyMAY
- RainJUN
- RainJUL
- RainAUG
- GoodSEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- BestDEC
From late March to May, and on some winter days, the valley is hazy and the mountains are hidden. In the monsoon (June to September) mornings are often clear and afternoons wet.
Time of day
Festivals worth planning for
Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.
Before you go
The small practical things.Visiting with respect
These are living places of worship, not museums.- Walk around stupas, monasteries and temples clockwise.
- Ask before photographing people at prayer, or inside temples; some do not allow it.
- Take off your shoes where others do, and dress with shoulders and knees covered at holy places.
- In the parks, keep quiet and keep your distance from animals; follow the nature guide.
- Courtyards are people's homes: we keep our voices low.
Where your money goes
Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide fee | Rujan Neupane | My day rate × 1 day | For your whole private group |
| Entry tickets | Paid at the gate | Official price | See Entrance fees |
| Lunch and tea | The restaurants and tea shops | What they charge | You pay directly |
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Photo notes
From a guide who is also a photographer.The places in detail
The history and stories behind what you will see.The old town
Between Thamel and Durbar Square lies the oldest part of Kathmandu. Its streets follow old trade routes to Tibet and India, meeting at crossroads such as Asan and Indra Chowk. Behind the street fronts open bahals, courtyards built around Buddhist shrines, where Newar families have lived for centuries. Itum Bahal is among the oldest and largest of them.
The shrines
Kathesimbhu is a small copy of the great stupa of Swayambhu. Jana Bahal holds the temple of Seto Machhindranath, the white Machhindranath, honoured by Buddhists and Hindus. At Bangemudha people nail coins to a lump of wood to ask the god of toothache for relief.
Entry tickets and park fees are at the official price: see entrance fees in Nepal.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you go
What I would read first, from my own guides and tours.Guides to read first
Frequently asked questions
Do we need a car?
No, it is all on foot from Thamel or a hotel nearby.
Is it safe?
Yes; mind your bag in the busy market and watch for motorbikes.
Are there tickets?
None until Durbar Square, which has its own fee.
Is the guide fee for each person?
No. One rate for your whole private group of 1 to 5 people.
Can we do it in the evening?
Yes, but the morning is calmer and the light better.
When is best?
October to April, early.
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- +977 984-3808583
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- +977 984-3808583
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More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.
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