Tansen and Ridi
Photo: Regmisachi, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
About
Four days in two old towns of the western hills that few visitors know. Tansen, a Newar hill town on a ridge in Palpa, with steep stone lanes, carved windows, the weavers of dhaka cloth and a pine forest on Srinagar hill above it; and Ridi, a holy bazaar on the Kali Gandaki where pilgrims bathe at the river's meeting and the old Rishikesh temple stands by the water. Below Tansen, Rani Mahal, a palace on the river. A flight to Bhairahawa, then the hills, ending in Pokhara.
A private journey
Your holiday in Nepal, travelled your way
Namaste, and welcome to Nepal. A week or two here can feel like a race when you are one of thirty on a coach. With your own guide it becomes a journey: the same face every morning, a car that stops for tea in a village, a slow day when you need one, and someone who knows the country and wants you to feel at home in it. I would like you to go home feeling that Nepal was kind to you.
- Two nights in Tansen
- Time for its lanes in the early morning and the evening.
- The river at Ridi
- We sit by the Kali Gandaki as long as you like.
- No crowds
- These towns see very few foreign visitors.
- Just you, and the people you came with
- No strangers to wait for, no group to keep up with.
- The same guide from the first day to the last
- You never start again with someone new.
- Rest days when you want them
- We add one, or move the plan, whenever you need it.
- The country between the places
- Villages, rivers and roadside tea, not only the famous sights.
- Someone to look after the details
- Tickets, permits, rooms and roads are arranged for you, so your mind is free.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Along the way
What this day is known for.
- Tansen's stone lanes and Newar houses
- Sunrise from Srinagar hill above Tansen
- Dhaka weavers at their looms
- Rani Mahal, the palace on the Kali Gandaki
- Ridi, the holy bazaar and the Rishikesh temple by the river
Day by day, night by night
Where we go, how long on the road, and where you sleep each night.| Day | The day | On the road | The night | Room + meals |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Day 1 · Fly to Bhairahawa, up to TansenA short flight to Bhairahawa, then up into the hills on the Siddhartha Highway to Tansen. An evening walk in the bazaar.
|
35 minutes by plane; about 2.5 hours by car | Tansen | Flight; car |
| Day 2 | Day 2 · Tansen and Rani MahalSunrise on Srinagar hill, the old temples and the dhaka weavers, then the walk down to Rani Mahal on the river; a car back up.
|
About 2 hours on foot down; a car back | Tansen | Car back |
| Day 3 | Day 3 · RidiTo Ridi on the Kali Gandaki: the holy confluence, the Rishikesh temple and the old bazaar.
|
About 2 hours by car each way | Tansen | Car |
| Day 4 | Day 4 · On to PokharaNorth on the Siddhartha Highway through the hills to Pokhara, where the tour ends.
|
4 to 5 hours by car | Car |
Is this tour for you?
Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before booking.- Tansen's hotels are simple.
- The lanes are steep.
- Ridi is busiest and most interesting at Maghe Sankranti; at other times it is quiet.
- The road to Pokhara is winding.
Photos from this tour
More about this tour
Best time to go
October to April.- GoodJAN
- BestFEB
- GoodMAR
- GoodAPR
- HazyMAY
- RainJUN
- RainJUL
- RainAUG
- HazySEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- GoodDEC
In the monsoon the hill roads are slower and landslides can close them.
Time of day
Festivals worth planning for
Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.
Before you go
The small practical things.Visiting with respect
These are living places of worship, not museums.- Walk around stupas, monasteries and temples clockwise.
- Ask before photographing people at prayer, or inside temples; some do not allow it.
- Take off your shoes where others do, and dress with shoulders and knees covered at holy places.
- In the parks, keep quiet and keep your distance from animals; follow the nature guide.
Staying away: 3 nights
You pay me only my guide fee. Rooms and meals are paid at what they actually cost, with nothing added by me.Where your money goes
Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide fee | Rujan Neupane | My day rate × 4 days, plus my overnight allowance × 3 nights away from Kathmandu | For your whole private group |
| Flight Kathmandu–Bhairahawa | The airline | Its price | Paid at cost |
| Car and driver | The driver or car company | Agreed before the tour | Paid at cost |
| Entry tickets and park fees | Paid at the gate | Official price | See Entrance fees |
| Rooms and meals | The hotels, lodges and homestays | What they charge | You pay them directly, or I book at their price |
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Photo notes
From a guide who is also a photographer.The places in detail
The history and stories behind what you will see.Two towns of the western hills
Tansen is the old Newar capital of Palpa, on a ridge above the Kali Gandaki valley, known for dhaka cloth and metalwork. Below it, Rani Mahal is a palace on the river built in the 1890s by a Rana general in memory of his wife. Ridi is a holy bazaar where the Ridi Khola meets the Kali Gandaki, with the Rishikesh temple; pilgrims bathe here, above all at Maghe Sankranti.
Entry tickets and park fees are at the official price: see entrance fees in Nepal.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Frequently asked questions
Can we start from Pokhara?
Yes, the route works the other way round.
Is the walk to Rani Mahal hard?
It is about 2 hours downhill on a path; a car brings us back up.
Is the guide fee for each person?
No. One rate for your whole private group of 1 to 5 people.
Can you book everything?
If you want, I book the car, rooms and flights at their own price and send you every price by email first. You can also book them yourself.
Can we add Lumbini?
Yes, it is about 3 hours south of Tansen.
When is Ridi's fair?
Maghe Sankranti, mid-January.
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- +977 984-3808583
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- +977 984-3808583
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More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.
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