Koshi Tappu wetlands

About

Koshi Tappu, on the Koshi river in the eastern plains, is Nepal's great bird wetland: river channels, marshes and grassland where hundreds of kinds of birds live, and where many more arrive for the winter from the north. It is also the last home in Nepal of the wild water buffalo, the arna. We stay at the edge of the reserve, walk the embankments at dawn, go out on the river and spend slow days with binoculars.

A private tour

A few days that belong to you

Namaste, and welcome. Just your group, your own car and me. You wake in a quiet guest house, walk when the light is good, and rest when you want to. Nobody hurries you to the next stop on someone else's timetable. For these few days, the road is yours.

Your own car and driver
It stops for a view, a tea shop or a photo whenever you ask.
Mornings without an alarm
Sunrise if you want it, a slow breakfast if you do not.
One person to ask
The same guide all the way: for the history, the food, the road and anything that goes wrong.
Quiet places to sleep
Small guest houses, chosen for calm rather than size.
The plan bends to you
A place left out, a longer stay, a slower day: we decide together as we go.

With warmth, Rujan Neupane

Along the way

What this day is known for.

  1. Winter flocks of ducks, geese and waders
  2. Storks, eagles and rare wetland birds
  3. The wild water buffalo, the arna
  4. Quiet mornings on the Koshi river
  5. Sunrise over the marshes from the embankment
Jump to

Day by day, night by night

Where we go, how long on the road, and where you sleep each night.
DayThe dayOn the roadThe nightRoom + meals
Day 1 Kathmandu to Biratnagar, drive to Koshi TappuA short flight east, then by road to the edge of the reserve; an evening walk on the embankment.
  • Biratnagar
  • Koshi Tappu
Flight about 45 minutes, then about 1½ to 2 hours Near the reserve Paid at cost
Day 2 Koshi Tappu: the embankments and marshesDawn on the embankment, then the marshes and grassland with a local bird guide.
  • Koshi Tappu
On foot and by jeep Near the reserve Paid at cost
Day 3 Koshi Tappu: the riverA morning on the river by boat, then the Koshi barrage in the evening.
  • Koshi river
  • Koshi barrage
Boat and jeep Near the reserve Paid at cost
Day 4 Back to KathmanduA last early walk, then the road to Biratnagar and the flight back.
  • Kathmandu
About 2 hours, then the flight —
Lodging and mealsAt actual cost, per night, as the lodges charge. Not part of the guide fee; nothing added.
Change the loopAdd a night, drop a stop, end somewhere else: tell me, and I re-plan it with you.
The paceSlow, with early starts. Easy walks on flat embankments, long stops to watch.

Is this tour for you?

Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.
InterestBirds above all.
PatienceLong, quiet watching.
FamiliesChildren who enjoy birds and early mornings.

Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me

The honest downsides

What I'd want to know before booking.
  • Few big animals besides the buffalo; it is a place for birds.
  • Places to stay are few and simple.
  • From April it is hot, and in the monsoon the area floods.
  • Winter mornings are often foggy until mid-morning.

More about this tour

Best time to go

December to February for the winter visitors.
  1. BestJAN
  2. BestFEB
  3. GoodMAR
  4. HazyAPR
  5. HazyMAY
  6. RainJUN
  7. RainJUL
  8. RainAUG
  9. RainSEP
  10. GoodOCT
  11. GoodNOV
  12. BestDEC
Best: clear and mild Good: cool mornings or some haze Warm, hazy and dusty Monsoon: afternoon rain

Migrating birds arrive from about November and leave by March. Fog on winter mornings can delay the start.

Time of day

DawnBirds most active
EveningFlocks flying to roost over the river

Festivals worth planning for

Chhath (October or November)Offerings to the sun on the river banks

Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.

Before you go

The small practical things.
ClothesDull green, brown or grey clothes for walks in the forest; nothing white or bright.
ShoesClosed walking shoes; leech socks in the wet months.
BinocularsOne pair each if you can; birds and animals are often far.
CashRupees in small notes; few cash machines near the parks.

Visiting with respect

These are living places of worship, not museums.
  • Keep quiet in the forest and follow the park guide's word near animals.
  • Never feed or follow animals for a photograph.
  • Carry your rubbish out of the park.
  • Ask before photographing people in the villages.

Staying away: 3 nights

You pay me only my guide fee. Rooms and meals are paid at what they actually cost, with nothing added by me.
LodgingPaid at cost, as the lodge charges
MealsPaid at cost, where we eat

Where your money goes

Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.
WhatWho receives itAmountNote
Guide (me)Rujan NeupaneMy city day rate × days, and the overnight allowanceOne rate for 1 to 5 people
Car and driverA local driverWhat the driver chargesPaid at cost
Hotels and mealsThe hotels and restaurantsWhat they chargeYou pay directly; I never add anything
Entrance feesThe sites and parksSee my Entrance fees pagePaid at the gate, at cost
Park entry permitThe national parkSee my Entrance fees pageOfficial price, paid at cost
Licensed park guide for walks insideLocal nature guidesWhat they chargePaid at cost
Boat on the riverLocal boatmenWhat they chargePaid at cost
Flights Kathmandu to Biratnagar and backThe airlineThe airline's fareYou pay the airline, at cost

I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.

Photo notes

From a guide who is also a photographer.
BirdsA long lens and a steady support; early light over the water.
BarrageEvening flocks over the river.

The places in detail

The history and stories behind what you will see.

Koshi Tappu

Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve was set up in 1976 on the floodplain of the Koshi river, Nepal’s largest river, above the barrage on the Indian border. It covers about 176 km² and was the first site in Nepal listed under the Ramsar Convention, in 1987. Hundreds of kinds of birds have been recorded here, and it protects the last wild water buffalo in Nepal.

Fees

The reserve’s entry fee is on my Entrance fees page.

My promises

Written down, so you can hold me to them.
  • No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
  • Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
  • Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
  • Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.

Frequently asked questions

When is the best time for birds at Koshi Tappu?

December to February, when the winter visitors are there.

How do we get there?

A short flight to Biratnagar, then about 1½ to 2 hours by road.

Will we see the wild water buffalo?

Usually, in the grassland of the reserve.

Do I need to be a birdwatcher?

It helps. If you just love quiet nature, you will enjoy it too.

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Plan it with me

Tell me how you'd like to spend the day. I'll plan the rest around you.

Rujan NeupaneTrekking & Tour Guide · Kathmandu

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More than 5 of you? Write to me. I guide up to 5 people at one rate. For a bigger group we can talk it through by email. I reply myself, usually within a day. On the trail there is often no network, so it can take a few days.

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