Photo: Aditya Pal, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
About
Four quiet days for birds, in winter, on the wide floodplain of the Sapta Koshi in eastern Nepal. Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve is a Ramsar wetland where ducks, geese, storks and waders from the north spend the winter beside the birds that live there all year; it also keeps Nepal's last wild water buffalo. A short flight to Biratnagar, then dawns on the water with the reserve's nature guides, slow walks on the embankments and the Koshi barrage at dusk.
A private tour
A few days that belong to you
Namaste, and welcome. Just your group, your own car and me. You wake in a quiet guest house, walk when the light is good, and rest when you want to. Nobody hurries you to the next stop on someone else's timetable. For these few days, the road is yours.
- Dawn on the water
- We are out at first light, when the birds are busiest.
- At your pace
- Long waits with a scope, or short walks: as you like.
- Few other visitors
- Koshi Tappu is one of the quietest reserves in Nepal.
- Your own car and driver
- It stops for a view, a tea shop or a photo whenever you ask.
- Mornings without an alarm
- Sunrise if you want it, a slow breakfast if you do not.
- One person to ask
- The same guide all the way: for the history, the food, the road and anything that goes wrong.
- Quiet places to sleep
- Small guest houses, chosen for calm rather than size.
- The plan bends to you
- A place left out, a longer stay, a slower day: we decide together as we go.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
Along the way
What this day is known for.
- Wintering ducks and geese, including bar-headed geese
- Storks, herons, ibises and waders on the floodplain
- Nepal's last wild water buffalo (arna)
- A boat on the Koshi with the reserve's nature guide
- The Koshi barrage at dusk
Day by day, night by night
Where we go, how long on the road, and where you sleep each night.| Day | The day | On the road | The night | Room + meals |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Day 1 · Fly to Biratnagar, on to Koshi TappuA short flight east and a drive to a camp by the reserve. The embankment at dusk.
|
About 40 minutes by plane; about 1.5 hours by car | Koshi Tappu, a camp or lodge by the reserve | Flight; car |
| Day 2 | Day 2 · Koshi Tappu by waterDawn on the river by boat with the reserve's nature guide; the grasslands for the wild water buffalo in the afternoon.
|
Koshi Tappu | Reserve entry; boat and nature guide at their prices | |
| Day 3 | Day 3 · The barrage and the pondsThe Koshi barrage and the fish ponds and marshes around the reserve, where many waterbirds gather.
|
Short drives | Koshi Tappu | Nature guide at their price |
| Day 4 | Day 4 · A last dawn, then backOne more dawn on the water, then Biratnagar and the flight to Kathmandu.
|
About 1.5 hours by car; 40 minutes by plane | Car; flight |
Is this tour for you?
Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before booking.- Winter mornings are often foggy; the fog lifts by mid-morning.
- The camps are simple.
- Outside winter there are far fewer birds.
- In the monsoon the reserve floods.
More about this tour
Best time to go
November to March, when the birds of the north winter here.- BestJAN
- BestFEB
- GoodMAR
- HazyAPR
- HazyMAY
- RainJUN
- RainJUL
- RainAUG
- RainSEP
- GoodOCT
- GoodNOV
- BestDEC
In December and January the lowlands are often foggy and cold in the morning; from April to early June they are very hot. In the monsoon roads are slower and parts of the parks close.
Time of day
Festivals worth planning for
Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.
Before you go
The small practical things.Visiting with respect
These are living places of worship, not museums.- Walk around stupas, monasteries and temples clockwise.
- Ask before photographing people at prayer, or inside temples; some do not allow it.
- Take off your shoes where others do, and dress with shoulders and knees covered at holy places.
- In the parks, keep quiet and keep your distance from animals; follow the nature guide.
Staying away: 3 nights
You pay me only my guide fee. Rooms and meals are paid at what they actually cost, with nothing added by me.Where your money goes
Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide fee | Rujan Neupane | My day rate × 4 days, plus my overnight allowance × 3 nights away from Kathmandu | For your whole private group |
| Flights Kathmandu–Biratnagar and back | The airline | Its price | Paid at cost |
| Car and driver | The driver or car company | Agreed before the tour | Paid at cost |
| Jeeps, canoes, boats and nature guides in the reserve | The reserve's guides and operators | Their prices | Paid to them |
| Entry tickets and park fees | Paid at the gate | Official price | See Entrance fees |
| Rooms and meals | The hotels, lodges and homestays | What they charge | You pay them directly, or I book at their price |
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Photo notes
From a guide who is also a photographer.The places in detail
The history and stories behind what you will see.Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve
A reserve on the floodplain of the Sapta Koshi in eastern Nepal, and a Ramsar wetland of international importance. It protects Nepal’s last wild water buffalo (arna) and nearly 500 kinds of birds have been recorded, many of them winter visitors from the north. Visitors go with the reserve’s nature guides.
Entry tickets and park fees are at the official price: see entrance fees in Nepal.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Frequently asked questions
When is best?
November to March, for the winter birds.
Do I need my own binoculars?
Bring them if you can; a scope helps too.
Can we add Chitwan?
Yes, it is about 7 to 8 hours west by road; see the Winter Birds tour.
Is the guide fee for each person?
No. One rate for your whole private group of 1 to 5 people.
Can you book everything?
If you want, I book the car, rooms and flights at their own price and send you every price by email first. You can also book them yourself.
Is it good for beginners?
Yes. The nature guides know the birds well, and I translate.
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- +977 984-3808583
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- +977 984-3808583
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