I’m Rujan, a licensed trekking guide living in Kathmandu. Where you sleep in Kathmandu shapes how you feel about the city. The valley has several very different neighbourhoods. Here is how they compare for the days before and after a trek.
Thamel
The travellers’ quarter, in the middle of the city. Hundreds of hotels at every price, trekking shops, restaurants and bars, and everything you need before a trek within a few minutes’ walk. The honest side: it is busy and noisy, with motorbikes in narrow lanes and music late at night. Choose a hotel on a side lane, or in quieter Lazimpat next door.
Boudha
Around the great stupa of Boudhanath, east of the centre, near the airport. Monasteries, monks and pilgrims walking the kora at dawn and dusk; a calm, spiritual feeling after the trail. Fewer shops for gear, and a taxi ride to Thamel. Many walkers love it for the last nights of a trip.
Patan
The old city of fine arts, south across the river. Durbar Square, courtyards and metalworkers in the old town, and quieter, leafy streets with cafés around Jhamsikhel. Calmer than Thamel, with good guesthouses in old Newar houses. See Patan.
Bhaktapur
The best-kept old city of the valley, in the east, close to the airport road. Staying the night means the squares at dawn and dusk without the day visitors. Further from shops and from Thamel, and there is a city entry fee. See a day in Bhaktapur.
Which I suggest
- First night, a trek starting early: Thamel or Lazimpat, near the gear shops and your guide.
- Last nights, to rest: Boudha or Patan.
- Old city, one night: Bhaktapur.
See also arriving in Kathmandu, Kathmandu in one day and my city tours.
Rules change. If something here is out of date, please tell me and I will correct it.Tell me
