Nepal in One Slow Loop: Bandipur, Pokhara and Chitwan
Photo: Image by crummock
About
A week to see the whole of Nepal without walking for weeks: the old cities of Kathmandu, the hilltop town of Bandipur, two nights by the lake and mountains of Pokhara, and two nights in the jungle of Chitwan. We travel by private car, never more than a few hours at a time, and sleep in places chosen for their beauty and calm: an old Newari house, a lodge above the lake, a quiet camp by the river. Slow mornings, early sunrises when they are worth it, and evenings with nowhere else to be.
A private tour
A few days that belong to you
Namaste, and welcome. Just your group, your own car and me. You wake in a quiet guest house, walk when the light is good, and rest when you want to. Nobody hurries you to the next stop on someone else's timetable. For these few days, the road is yours.
- Your own car and driver
- It stops for a view, a tea shop or a photo whenever you ask.
- Mornings without an alarm
- Sunrise if you want it, a slow breakfast if you do not.
- One person to ask
- The same guide all the way: for the history, the food, the road and anything that goes wrong.
- Quiet places to sleep
- Small guest houses, chosen for calm rather than size.
- The plan bends to you
- A place left out, a longer stay, a slower day: we decide together as we go.
With warmth, Rujan Neupane
All of Nepal, slowly
Many people write to me with only a week, and the same wish: they want to see the mountains, but they also want the villages, the temples and the jungle. And they don’t want to rush. This is the trip I plan for them.
What I love about this loop is how the country changes outside the window. The cold, busy valley of Kathmandu, then the green hills, then the lake with the Himalaya standing over it, and at last the warm, flat south where the rhinos walk at the edge of the forest. In one week you feel how many different Nepals there are.
I keep the days short on purpose. A few hours on the road, then time to sit, to walk without a plan, to watch the light change. That is the real comfort of this trip, more than the beautiful rooms.
From my last tour
Along the way
What this day is known for.
- An old Newari heritage hotel in Kathmandu, and Patan’s royal square
- Bandipur, a hilltop town with no cars and sunrise over the Himalaya
- Two nights by Phewa Lake, with sunrise over the Annapurnas from Sarangkot
- A quiet boat on Phewa Lake
- Two nights in a jungle lodge in Chitwancanoe, jeep safari and rhinos
- A private car, short days and no flights
Day by day, night by night
Where we go, how long on the road, and where you sleep each night.| Day | The day | On the road | The night | Room + meals |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Kathmandu and PatanPickup at your hotel. The afternoon in Patan’s royal square, the evening free in a heritage hotel.
|
Short city drives | Kathmandu | — |
| Day 2 | Up to BandipurOut of the valley along the Trishuli river, then up to a hilltop town with no cars. An evening walk along the old street.
|
About 4 to 5 hours | Bandipur, an old restored house | — |
| Day 3 | Bandipur to PokharaSunrise over the Himalaya from Bandipur, a slow breakfast, then a short drive to the lake. The afternoon free by the water.
|
About 2 to 3 hours | Pokhara (night 1 of 2), a quiet lodge above the lake | — |
| Day 4 | Sunrise and the lakeAn early drive to Sarangkot for sunrise over the Annapurnas, back for breakfast. A boat on Phewa Lake and the walk to the Peace Pagoda in the afternoon.
|
Short drives | Pokhara (night 2 of 2), the same lodge | — |
| Day 5 | Down to the jungleFrom the hills to the warm plains of Chitwan. Sunset by the Rapti river.
|
About 5 hours | Chitwan (night 1 of 2), a jungle lodge | — |
| Day 6 | A day in the parkA canoe on the river in the morning mist, rest through the heat, a jeep safari among the rhinos in the afternoon.
|
Chitwan (night 2 of 2), the same lodge | — | |
| Day 7 | Back to KathmanduBirds by the river at sunrise, then the road back up into the hills. At your hotel by evening.
|
About 5 to 6 hours | — |
Is this tour for you?
Walking, steps, heat and access, honestly.Not sure? Tell me who is coming, and I'll tell you honestly. Write to me
The honest downsides
What I'd want to know before booking.- The roads between the towns are slow and bumpy in places, with road works.
- Mountain views need clear weather; from June to September they often hide.
- Good hotels cost more in October, November and March, and fill early.
- Chitwan is very hot from April to June.
More about this tour
Best time to go
Best from October to April, when the mountains are clear and Chitwan is cool.- GoodJAN
- GoodFEB
- GoodMAR
- HazyAPR
- HazyMAY
- RainJUN
- RainJUL
- RainAUG
- GoodSEP
- BestOCT
- BestNOV
- GoodDEC
December and January bring cold mornings and fog in Chitwan, but clear mountain days above it.
Time of day
Festivals worth planning for
Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year; I confirm the date when you ask.
Before you go
The small practical things.Visiting with respect
These are living places of worship, not museums.- Walk around stupas, temples and prayer wheels clockwise.
- Take off shoes and hats before entering a shrine or a monastery.
- Ask before photographing people, especially monks and people at prayer.
- Don't touch offerings or step over them on the ground.
- Some temples are open to Hindus only; we see them from outside.
Staying away: 6 nights
You pay me only my guide fee. Rooms and meals are paid at what they actually cost, with nothing added by me.Where your money goes
Every amount, and who receives it. I charge only my guide fee; the rest is paid at cost.| What | Who receives it | Amount | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide fee | Rujan Neupane | My city day rate, plus the overnight allowance for each night away | One rate for 1 to 5 people |
| Private car and driver | The driver | Agreed before we go | For all seven days |
| Hotels and lodges | The hotels | At their price | Shown to you before we book; nothing added |
| Patan Durbar Square | Paid at the gate | NPR 1,000 | Foreigners. SAARC: NPR 250 |
| Chitwan National Park | Paid at the park gate | NPR 2,000 | Foreigners. SAARC: NPR 1,000 |
| Canoe, jeep safari and nature guides | Local partners in Sauraha | Agreed before we book | Paid to the people who do the work |
| Thank you | Me, the driver and the nature guides | Your choice | Welcome, never expected |
I don't sell packages. I guide, and I help you arrange the rest (rooms, transport, permits) at what it actually costs. If you would like it all put together as one package, ask me: I make one only on your request, and we confirm it by email.
Photo notes
From a guide who is also a photographer.The places in detail
The history and stories behind what you will see.This trip is for people who want to see the many faces of Nepal in one week, in comfort and without hurry. We begin in Kathmandu with a night in a heritage hotel and an afternoon in Patan, the old city of artists. Then the road climbs out of the valley to Bandipur, a Newari hill town of stone streets and carved windows, where there are no cars and the Himalaya stands across the horizon at sunrise.
From there it is a short drive to Pokhara, where we stay two nights by Phewa Lake: sunrise over the Annapurnas from Sarangkot, a boat on the still water, the walk up to the Peace Pagoda. Then down to the warm Terai and Chitwan National Park for two nights in a jungle lodge, with a canoe in the morning mist and a jeep safari among the rhinos. The last day brings us back to Kathmandu.
You pay me only my guide fee. The hotels, the car and the tickets are paid at what they actually cost, and I show you every price before anything is booked.
My promises
Written down, so you can hold me to them.- No pressureAsk me anything. Asking costs nothing and commits you to nothing, and I will never rush your decision.
- Nothing hiddenEvery cost is written down before you pay anything, and nothing is added later without your agreement.
- Your day, your paceWe stay longer where you want to, and skip what doesn't interest you.
- Reviews as writtenEvery review here is published as the guest wrote it. I don't edit reviews or remove critical ones.
Before you go
What I would read first, from my own guides and tours.Guides to read first
Frequently asked questions
Is this a luxury package?
No. I don’t sell packages. I guide you and help you choose and book beautiful places to stay, which you pay for at their real price. The comfort comes from the hotels and the slow pace.
Can we change the hotels?
Yes. We choose them together: simpler or finer, as you like. The guide fee stays the same.
Can we fly instead of driving?
Yes, for one leg: Pokhara to Kathmandu or Bharatpur (Chitwan) to Kathmandu is a short flight. Bandipur can only be reached by road.
Is there walking?
Only short, easy walks. There is no altitude and no trek.
Can we add days?
Yes: a second night in Bandipur, a day hike near Pokhara, or a full-day jeep safari in Chitwan.
Is it good for older travellers?
Yes. The days are short, the roads have many stops, and every night is comfortable. Tell me about anyone who needs more care, and I will plan around it.
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